2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing heater core

[Hawkdriver69]

Ok guys first post here been lurking for awhile. I have an 01 2500 4x4 auto with 278000 on the clock. Just got it. I had an 01 12 years ago that I always regretted trading. The heater core is leaking inside the cab. Noticed it last weekend when I was flushing the radiator. I was planning on replacing it this weekend. I have replaced a heater core before on an 88 F-250.

Anyways I have been looking in the Haynes manual I got for my truck to see if there was anything special I had to to do. And holy crap! It is telling me I have to drain the A/C system and the radiator then pull the the whole dash out to even get to this thing. What a pain in the butt! What I thought was going to be about a $60.00 job has now gone up because if this is all true now I have to get the A/C charged and I have to buy some Spring Lock Coupling Tool to disconnect the A/C lines.

Is there an easier way to do this and do I really have to drain and disconnect the A/C lines?

Just bought this truck a few weeks ago. I replaced and flushed the Coolant, transmission filter, oil, and transfer case fluid last weekend. I was planning on doing the diffs, replacing the yoke seal on the rear axle, replacing the serpentine belt and the heater core this weekend.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[dcs1968]

I did the heater core on my 2001 1500 a few years back and I was able to replace it without evacuating the A/C. Basicly I unbolted the steering colum from under the dash and layed it down on the seat. Remove all dash fasteners and whatever electrical connections needed. I think I removed the gauge pod and all switch panels. I didn't completely remove dash assembly.I just kinda lifted it off its mount points and laid it over onto the front seats. All in all the whole job took like 5 hours out in my driveway.

 

[fest3er]

The main problem is opening the air handler box. On my '98, the screws are beneath the lip. I had to remove it and turn it upside down. 13 years? There's probably a lot of guck and mold to remove anyway; complete removal isn't a bad thing.

Be careful when you remove it. The dash cover (top) is probably fragile. Many of the screw bosses at the back (front) used to secure the defrost ducts were broken off. And it's now well cracked. (But it lasted 15 years intact.)

And be careful when you reinstall. I pinched a vacuum line. I ran a new line using a different route. It's been working fine since.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I covered the procedures in Issues 46 and 59.

 

[SAndreasen]

I have to do one. Well anybody know what the flat rate Is on that job

 

[WalterRyan]

Food for thought.
If you root around on this forum a little you will discover that the evaporator is known to start leaking with age. I have heard the same thing from other sources also. I have noticed my truck needs refrigerant every year now but for the first 6 or 7 years I never had to touch it. If you are going to all the trouble of pulling the dash you would be better off to change the evaporator while in there. I for one would hate to do all that work and then need to do it again to fix the A/C.

Also you can get a set of tools at harbor freight for about $5. Yeah I know, I am not a fan of harbor freight myself but even they should have a hard time screwing these up. You could probably go high class for $20 (as long as you avoid Snap-on).

I need to do my evaporator and was thinking of doing the heater core at the same time for the same reason.

Walt

 

[Hawkdriver69]

Thanks for the replies guys. I will give it a go this weekend. I have to do something with it leaking inside the cab. I know antifreeze is not good on the carpet. What tools are you talking about that I will need from Harbor Freight? I usually dont shop there unless I am getting something that I will hardly use or only use once. Other wise I try to buy Craftsman. I think the dash has been replaced because it is not cracked and looks fairly new.

 

[Hawkdriver69]

Are there any specialty tools required to change out the Evaporator Core?

 

[BMelhuish]

As Joe Donnelly stated look at Issues 46 and 59. Those articles outline the proceedure. It's not a tough job. However, once you're in the HVAC box, you may find that the evaporator core should be replaced as well. What I did is have my local shop evacuate the A/C. I replaced the parts and had them recharge it. My issue was the evaporator, and I replaced the heater core while I had the HVAC box out. As a side note once you get the dash apart and then discover that you need to do an evaporator core too and you do not have the equipment to evacuate the A/C, the truck is not driveable-unless of course you put it back together. You may also have a more difficult time taking the A/C apart so that you can replace the core.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Evacuate the AC just before re-charging it, after the evaporator and/or receiver/dryer are replaced.

 

[WalterRyan]

These are the cheap ones.
Nicer ones are at the end of a pair of plier style handles. These connectors are used a lot on newer vehicles so they are nice to have on hand.
Just about any part store should have something similar.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-fuel-line-and-a-c-quick-disconnect-tool-97576.html

 

[CPH]

Been there done that got the t shirt. Do both you won't regret it. Took about 8 hrs taking my time and working alone. Follow Joseph's instructions and you will be fine.

cph

 

[Hawkdriver69]

Got it knocked out it turn out to be the evaporator core I went ahead a changed both. Thanks for the help guys!