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Reusable plastic automatic transmission pan gaskets.

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rotohead

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Anybody find they have to use a greater torque setting then the factory recommended 13ftlbs to get it leak free with these newer design reusable plastic (I think that's what they're made of, maybe some composite material) transmission pan gaskets? Twice now I've had to go to close to 20 ft lbs before they stopped leaking. Anybody see a problem with that higher torque?

EDIT: this is with a aftermarket aluminum deep pan.
 
I have never had that problem with the original or after market aluminum pan.

I'm not sure it's the pan but that newer style gasket. I've only seen them around for a few years. Black with a red raised stripe around the perimeter. Looks to me it requires more compression then the old cork style. Anybody think that up to 20 ft lbs is a problem? That's 7 over factory spec.
 
Inever used a tq wrench on this bolts, just a 1/4"ratchet and feel for the bolts.
But i heard from stripped threads of people using a tq wrench.

Pan was n is leak free.
 
I can't find my pics but we have mostly CDI torque wrenches maybe 50, then someone was in a bind out in the field and bought 2 husky inLb ones, I thought the same would be junk, they actually calibrate out amazingly every year. We do in house checks with a CDI 25-250in lb check unit, it's pretty neat has .5% accuracy (10%-100%) so good for most common wrenches.

Keep them set to minimum when not in use, the pre load really does affect them when they sit at the same value for long times, you can usually get away with it if it's at a common value but lose the upper or lower at some point. Then you have to get a spring kit typically.

This is the ones we have..

Screenshot_20200126-162213_Chrome.jpg


Screenshot_20200126-162611_Chrome.jpg
 
I get it, and was surprised when the damn things checked out so accurate and have for the past few years.

Accessibility to quality tools for non professionals outside of ordering something and waiting which is not always an option. The Husky torque checks out when needed, at least the 2 out of maybe over 50 wrenches we have they work.

Besides CDI, I have some SnapOn, MAC mixed in, all brands I have have needed adjustments so agree with the have you checked your tools lately. Especially at these lower levels.

My guys are welcome to borrow my wrenches for home projects, CDI makes a great tool for the price, they go on sale a few times a year. It's when your in a pinch and need something.
 
I've had the same problem with stock oilpans, but usually not so much with the aftermarket pans with a wide flange.... but I usually overtorque those, as I've had problems with them coming loose... So I don't think 20ftlbs is too much. Although, I must point out, that an 8mm heat treated bolt, scoring 9.8 hardness, has a minimum shear capacity of 36Nm... or 26.55ftlbs, according to my book.

Just a FYI, some of the Husky tools are made here in the USA... I have a digital laser level that was accurate to +- .001 at 10'. And in testing it, it was just as accurate as the one I had. I bought directly from Apex Tool, a subdivision of Stanley, who owns Husky. I was working in a manufacturing plant as a fabricator/welder, and was building assembly line and painting stages, so I had to have accurate tools.... seeing as the level was $326 (IIRC), and the Mitutoyo M series level I already had was $2600, I was willing to try it.... It is a quality instrument.
 
I've installed hundreds of transmission pans over the years with no leaks, except for my truck. It has leaked since I can remember. Same with the ATS transmission. I have tried cork and rubber gaskets, torked in every which way, with no luck. I'm sure vibration from the Cummins doesn't help. Are these the plastic ones you speak of? I was planning on trying them next.
Screenshot_20200131-070041_Samsung Internet.jpg

I've read that synthetic fluids find their way out a little easier. Not sure on the validity of that.
 
I've installed hundreds of transmission pans over the years with no leaks, except for my truck. It has leaked since I can remember. Same with the ATS transmission. I have tried cork and rubber gaskets, torked in every which way, with no luck. I'm sure vibration from the Cummins doesn't help. Are these the plastic ones you speak of? I was planning on trying one of them next.
Screenshot_20200131-070041_Samsung Internet.jpg

I've read that synthetic fluids find their way out a little easier. Not sure on the validity of that.

Screenshot_20200131-070041_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Anybody find they have to use a greater torque setting then the factory recommended 13ftlbs to get it leak free with these newer design reusable plastic (I think that's what they're made of, maybe some composite material) transmission pan gaskets? Twice now I've had to go to close to 20 ft lbs before they stopped leaking. Anybody see a problem with that higher torque?

EDIT: this is with a aftermarket aluminum deep pan.
I could never get the plastic ones to seal. I returned to the paper ones. No more issues.
 
I used the gasket above on my 01 Sport at the beginning of last Summer and at the end of Summer it was dry. I tightened to factory spec.
 
I've installed hundreds of transmission pans over the years with no leaks, except for my truck. It has leaked since I can remember. Same with the ATS transmission. I have tried cork and rubber gaskets, torked in every which way, with no luck. I'm sure vibration from the Cummins doesn't help. Are these the plastic ones you speak of? I was planning on trying them next.
View attachment 118365
I've read that synthetic fluids find their way out a little easier. Not sure on the validity of that.

Yes, that is the type of plastic gasket I was refering to. The raised red bead around the edge seems to be some sort of sealant needing more compression to flatten out. I've since torqued to 18 ft lbs and driven a couple hunderd miles and only had one drop hit the garage floor. Much better then two weeks ago when it was leaking all along the front edge of the pan. This issue wouldn't be such a big deal for me if the seal was easily replaced but draining ATF and removing the pan is such a mess. I'm going to keep a eye on it and update in time. In the past I've had smaller leaks with cork usually showing up later in the duty cycle of the ATF.
 
I've had the same problem with stock oilpans, but usually not so much with the aftermarket pans with a wide flange.... but I usually overtorque those, as I've had problems with them coming loose... So I don't think 20ftlbs is too much. Although, I must point out, that an 8mm heat treated bolt, scoring 9.8 hardness, has a minimum shear capacity of 36Nm... or 26.55ftlbs, according to my book.


The MagHytec pans come with those hex nut (1/4" I believe) so I'm not sure they are heat treated or have the same shear characteristics as the factory bolts. And again, I don't think this is a 'pan' issue but the ability of these newer type reusable plastic gaskets. They seem to have a raised bead (red in color) around the edge of the gasket that seems to need compression to seal properly. I've sent a email to Cascade Transmissions in Oregon where I bought it asking for spec data or other info. They are a good source of reasonably priced parts but not so great on fast shipping or customer questions. We'll see what they say. If it continues to be a issue I've eventually drain the oil and replace it with cork or paper. Was hoping this product would work. Maybe it will eventually.
 
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