RodPod Install...

[schu777]

Tonight I sat down and started the gauge install. I choose the RodPod from Wildcat Diesel since I didn't like the A-pillar type of install. Here are pictures of what I've done.



First I had to peel the dash off - not hard to do, I started at the left side and worked around the top.

 

[schu777]

The RodPod comes where you can choose how many gauges and where you want them. I'm only doing three, but left room for a fourth one. Here is the template that I created. I used a 2" hole saw to get the holes created, then had to sand it a bit further with some 100 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1" dowel.

 

[schu777]

Here is what the gauges look like in the pod...

 

[schu777]

This step might be pretty hard for some people to do, but for some reason, it was rather easy for me to do. . go figure...



I fitted the Pod to the Dash, took some masking tape and outlined the outside edges. After that, I removed that, took another piece of tape to measure in 1" - instructions called for 3/4", I figured I'd play it safe and go with an inch instead. for the bottom of the dash, I measured 3/4" away from the edge of the dash and vent and placed a piece of tape along the marks.



I used the dremel took with a cutting wheel on it. Take this step slow since you don't want to make a mistake and hit an area that will not be covered.



Here is what it looks like with the tape...

 

[schu777]

Here is the dash with it cut out... those with weak tummys, don't look!

 

[schu777]

Now that is done, I took the dash out to the truck and put it back in... had to tape the Pod to see what it looked like, nice view of gauges and not blocking the view for driving either... . now just to get them hooked up.

 

[Mundgyver]

Very nice. I wish they would have had this type of pod when I did my install.

 

[RO'neal]

Looks very nice. If I could somehow justify more gauges...

 

[schu777]

Tonight I continued with the install - so far the process has been pretty easy... as long as you read and research what needs to be done, it's not that bad.



Here is a picture I took with my new Digital Camera (Canon Rebel EOS) - a full view of the cab with the dash & knee bloster removed - if you can imagine right above the parking brake is where the wires are ran. I then took the wires and put them above the steering wheel bracket (at least that is what I think it is) and then routed the wires to the thermo control (As in the next picture)

 

[schu777]

Here is a picture of the pryo wire & boost tube - a little bit ahead of myself, but you get the picture (no pun intended)

 

[schu777]

As what you will find searching TDR for drilling the pryo, using grease & a vacuum while drilling will result in a small number of metal flakes getting inside. I did try to put a piece of cardboard between the manifold and turbo, but was unsuccessful in getting the bottom nuts lose.



The drilling process began with dipping the drill bit into the grease tube I purchase just for it. I'd drill for a bit with the vacuum on right next to it. Every so often I would stop drilling, clean the bit, clean the manifold and then re-dip and continue with the process.



With the tap, I put grease on it, do a quarter of a turn in, then backed it off about 1/8th of a turn, then quarter turn in again and so on. After about two rotations, I'd pull it out, clean it and test fit the thermo coupler. Repeat as needed to get the desired depth of the thermo coupler.



After getting it tapped out, I took a magnet and went inside many times, only got some really small flakes (real small!) - did that many times till I was satisfied with it.



With the anti-seize, I had to clean the thrmo coupler and the new hole in the manifold. I got my starting fluid can and cleaned the thermo coupler off – using a paper towel, I sprayed it with starting fluid and cleaned the manifold.



For the IssPro Pryo gauge, it comes with it's own little box. I located it inside the cab, really close to the hole it went out of. It could have been mounted on the other side of the firewall, but the plug might have been kind of tough getting it through the hole I made in the rubber boot for all the electric wires go through.



Here is a full view of the engine compartment.

 

[schu777]

Here is more of a close up of the Pyro sensor...

 

[schu777]

Here is what I did the night before - getting the boost gauge put in. It's very simple process with the Piers Turbo Boost Fitting - just take out one of the bolts, replace with it, hook up the boost tube and you are done. Some might want to paint the bolt since it will rust - I'm going to need to do that...

 

[rmrc]

A very well written and informative post!



Sent you a PM.

 

[schu777]

And the story continues...



Now for the fun part - finding that dimmer wire. I took out the three screws that holds the light switch. I starting probing around and finally found it. Here is a picture of a wire probe into the wire spot - the one I used was a brown/orangish wire.

 

[schu777]

Here it is with a T-tap in it.

 

[schu777]

I ordered a painless wiring kit from Geno's - pretty good thing to get if you are planing to have more fun stuff. Follow the instructions that comes with the kit and also the TDR column and you won't have any problem with it.



Here is where I located it...

 

[schu777]

Here is the circuit breakers for the painless kit - I wired it close to the battery like it called for. I didn't mount the circuit breakers anywhere yet, I'm going to velcro it onto the top of the fuse box cover.

 

[schu777]

Now I had to locate the ignition on wire - turns out it is the blue wire - here is a picture of it with a piece of white paper behind it.

 

[schu777]

Now I had to tap into the blue with the pink wire from the painless wire kit