ROTORS

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what's easiest way to get rotors off. I have took the four bolts out of the back of the assembly and just put a puller on it? We've done it that way before on my 94' but we were doing it to my cousins 99' and can't seem to break them loose. Anybody know of any easier way??? The truck is 4x4 2500 ??

[This message has been edited by SmokinCummins (edited 09-23-2000). ]

 

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Mine were hard the first time also. It took penitrating oil an a lead hammer to break them lose. To avoid this the next time coat the splined axle shaft with antiseize before you put it back on.

 

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Make sure you turn the rotor as you hit it from the rear. I used block of wood and 4 lb hammer. Anti-sieze and diesal trucks are inseparable

 

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I used a 4 lb hammer and a block of wood from the rear, turning after each blow of the hammer. Use anti-seize on shaft and bolts on reinstall.

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1996-3500 tst #5 plate, K&N air filter,Primeloc fuel filter kit,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock. Transfer-flow 98 gal bed tank on order.

 

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Is there any danger of tearing up the wheel bearings on a 94 by using a puller to get the rotor off???

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1994 4X4 2500 Auto.
1998 Harley FXDS
1998 Harley Sportster 1200

 

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Originally posted by Don Schmidt:
Is there any danger of tearing up the wheel bearings on a 94 by using a puller to get the rotor off???

I used a puller on mine the first time and inspected the bearings. DO NOT SPLIT THE BEARINGS if you do you run a chance of everything not being right. Being nosy we did and the bearing cage was cracked! It's a TIMKEN bearing but my TIMKEN bearing rep for Cincinnati could get the number but it said not available. I guess DODGE hasn't made enough money off of us to release the part to TIMKEN or any parts stores for sale. So I had to buy the whole assembly from DC.