Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) run's hot while towing up a grade

[EricBu12]

the fan uses speed and senses the temp of the incoming air while driving. . then it will lock up...



I bought a Horton fan clutch which is like the big rigs but electro-mechanical. Either temp, A/C pressure or manual switch inside makes the fan one to one... .



I'm not sure but I think they don't make them anymore... . do a search on the internet for dodge horton fan clutch.



This has helped the most but my truck still gets warm and I have to back out of it a little...



If you suspect it, just get a new fan and see if there is a difference between yours and a new one... .

 

[MSalvatore]

Ok I put a new fan clutch on so we will see if it solved the problem along with the now clean radiator. On a side note an air chisel on the fan nut worked great.

 

[ctdodgeram]

Where can I purchase this crankcase breather relocation kit?

 

[jkidd]

crank case

I just pulled my radiator and cleaned it (pressure washed it... better to go up and down motion as it is less likely to bend fins. )



I pulled 10k from san Francisco a month ago before cleaning the radiator. Got stuck on a hill with 220-240 temps and took the grapevine 4-6% for nearly 10 miles at 25mph to keep temps in check.



used a 3ft pice of heater hose and a coupler and junked the breather bottle. pulled 9k from Utah to so cal, Comp box on 3x3, never got hotter than 1250 EGT and found that keeping boost around 15 or less helped me to stay cool. With AC blasting and pulling baker grade I was going 50mph and never got higher than 208. outside temps were 110F.



I am a believer in pulling the raditor then relocating.

 

[PC12Driver]

Where can I purchase this crankcase breather relocation kit?

I don't think you'll find a "kit" per-se. Some of us take the simple approach and just remove the bottle and extend the breather tube down below the radiator and engine. Basic, but it will drip as it sits (not much - like a drop overnight). Others get a bit creative and add catch bottles, old socks, etc to catch the drip.



However you do it, don't make the hose too long and make sure it always travels down hill. You don't want condensation pooling or freezing in the tube, since a plugged breather = blown seals.



In my experience, relocating the breather helps keep things clean on the back of the radiator, but you'll still need to pull the radiator and clean it once in a while. Most of the air-blocking gunk is on the front of the radiator. Here's a pic of the front of my radiator after a couple of years of service with the breather relocated.

 

[Boondocker]

In my experience, relocating the breather helps keep things clean on the back of the radiator, but you'll still need to pull the radiator and clean it once in a while. Most of the air-blocking gunk is on the front of the radiator. Here's a pic of the front of my radiator after a couple of years of service with the breather relocated.

That's gross :--)

Now I have to go check mine.

 

[MSalvatore]

My radiator was much dirtier than that, glad I was told to clean it. So I just got home from wheeling and was pulling 10K again this time temp's never went past 195* I had changed my fan clutch the other day and that was bad. So a new fan clutch and a good cleaning was all it needed. No if onl I could keep my FP above 5psi ( friggin lift pump's suck).



Marc

 

[NoSeeUm]

Great news Marc!



Do check on your transmission temperature. Like I said, I am far from an expert, but somewhere I did read that the placement of the thermocouple matters allot.



Search TDR, Cummins Forum or NWBombers . There was a good thread (somewhere) describing something about how the pan oil temperature is really misleading. The temperature probe needs to mounted somewhere in the hot oil circulation path.



Jim

 

[MSalvatore]

trans temp was holding at 130. It went up to 150 when I stopped for a bit in traffic. No to address the FP issue. thinking of the fass pump with big line kit?

 

[NoSeeUm]

Pretty much up to you, from what I hear they are a good product. You might look into the Vulcan Big Line Kit or maybe the smaller kit that Geno's sells. Both re-locate the LP to the frame rail by the fuel tank and seem to perform with good results.



Jim



Edit: Btw Vulcan is in the process of gearing up to sell a new fuel tank module fuel line penetration that opens up the restrictions in the OEM one.