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RV-1 goosneck adapter

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Can you tow something from Denver to LA

dumb tire question

Has anybody got any experience pulling a 5ver with an RV-1 gooseneck adapter? I spotted one on the net the other day, and they look a lot better than some I've seen. I want to pull a 5th wheel, but don't want the awfull hardware filling up the back of my truck.
 
I am no expert by any means but having just done some research (far from scientific just asking questions on various boards and a few calls to a couple manufacturers) on this because I need to be able to pull a gooseneck and a fifth wheel at different times and needing a clean bed when not using either I will comment. I cant speak to that brand but what I found out was:

Most rv trailer manufacturers will void their warranty if using a gooseneck adapter as it puts too much stress on the trailer (which may be a mute point if there is no warranty left on the trailer but nonetheless). I have been told there are a few manufacturers that will address that problem by reinforcing the trailer in the affected area. Personally I decided on the B&W turnover ball setup for the gooseneck and then add the 5th wheel companion hitch when I need the 5th wheel (instead of adapting the 5th wheel on the trailer to a gooseneck it converts the ball in the bed of the truck to a fifth wheel). I think there are some other ones out there as well. It keeps the bed clean when not using the 5th wheel no rails or anything inside the bed but when needing the gooseneck I turnover the ball, when needing the 5'r hitch I turnover the ball and add the companion. However when using the companion it will be there taking up bed space.

That being said there seems to be a market for the adapters and I have not personally heard of anyone messing up their trailer with them. You might also try going to irv2 or rvnet and ask their opinions as well.
 
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I have heard of more than one story from members on irv2.com of frame damage to the camper from the adapters. If you need to tow both types, look into the B&W Turnoverball and 5th wheel companion hitch. You can also get gooseneck plates for several brands of 5er hitch rails.
 
Yup, dang near tore the king pin box right out of my fiver; it was tearing the welds right out of the metal, and it took less than 3000 miles! Costly mistake



Vaughn
 
Darn, I wouldn't have thought it would mess the trailer up. Thanks!!! I guess I'll have to look into the alternatives. By the way, just registered, and am now "Sakanuts"
 
Sakanuts,



I have the Putnam Lock-N-Load gooseneck (GN) hitch and their Hawkeye Over/Under fifth wheel hitch, which plugs into the socket in place of the GN ball. Level bed when not in use and about one square foot footprint when the fiver hitch is installed. My only concern is that the fore-and-aft pivot shaft is several inches below the fiver hitch, which will transmit more torque to the fiver's pin box. Still, it should be better than an adapter that mounts to the trailer and pivots at the GN ball. Check them at http://www.putnamhitch.com/Fifth Family/hawkover.htm on the web.



Happy shopping! :)



Alan.



P. S. I have not yet towed a fiver with it, so can't say how it feels.
 
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Alan, checked out the link. Thanks. So your satified with your setup sofar? Does the 5th wheel adapter rest on the bed sheet metal? If so, does it scrach it?
 
When the fiver hitch is in the GN socket, it compresses my BedRug, but probably would not contact the metal bed if the BedRug wasn't there. I think it's designed to work with bedliners.



The fiver hitch plugs into the socket in place of the GN ball, rather than attaching to the ball and contacting the bed for support. One minor drawback is that you have to find a place to safely store the ball then the fiver hitch is installed.



BTW, there is a roll pin that retains the GN ball in normal use, so it cannot be completely removed and can't get lost. If you plan to use the fiver hitch regularly, just leave the roll pin out.
 
Alan, one more question. It looks from the pictures of the Hawkeye that there would be a lot of stress applied to the underbed gooseneck frame, as there is a lot of leverage applied to the gooseneck hole area from the length of the 5th wheel assembly from the GN hole up to the point where the trailer pin is engaged. Has this ever worried you? Or is there some sort of mechanism that would cancell this out...
 
Merryman,

Exactly where did the stress on your fiver pin box result in torn welds? Is there anyway gussets that could be welded in place, say under the pin box down to the back side of the adapter? I wonder if the frame at the front of the trailer, under the fiberglass was hurt?
 
A fifth wheel trailer is not a gooseneck trailer. Compare the frame sizes, gusseting, etc. between comparable GVWR 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers. The goosenecks use much larger cross section structural steel and much more gusseting because of the torques and forces inherent in the gooseneck design. The 5th wheel trailer frames are not designed to take these forces. We've seen any number of reports of 5th wheel frame damage over on iRV2.com and other RV forums when these gooseneck adapters are used. Further, no 5th wheel manufacturer that we've queried approves the use of these gooseneck adapters on a stock 5th wheel, although some manufacturers will custom-build a gooseneck-style frame on special order.



Rusty
 
Quick question/comment: I pulled a on-line owner's manual for Skylite Travel Trailers and they not only showed the gooseneck adapter, but gave instructions on how to hitch up to the truck when you used one.



Did I read something bogus, or are there travel trailers that are designed to use gooseneck adapters?



Personnally, I don't want the whole turntable affair permanently or removeably installed in my bed either.
 
Originally posted by ntillm01

Did I read something bogus, or are there travel trailers that are designed to use gooseneck adapters?



Personnally, I don't want the whole turntable affair permanently or removeably installed in my bed either.

There may be some such as the one you cited. The iRV2.com poster didn't query Skylite - he checked with manufacturers like Nash/Arctic Fox, Sunnybrook/Mobile Scout, Alfa, Travel Supreme, Hitchhiker, etc.



As has been stated, as a moderator on iRV2.com, I've seen lots of posts from individuals who have damaged their 5th wheels by bolting these "cheater pipe" gooseneck adapters to the pin box. By the same token, there are individuals who use these adapters and haven't failed their 5th wheel frames - yet. Caveat emptor! :rolleyes:



Personally, I use the B&W turnoverball gooseneck with their Companion 5th Wheel RV hitch. A full-featured 5th wheel hitch when towing our RV, and a clean bed when we're not.



Rusty
 
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I my case the welds were being torn out of the metal of the trailer frame where the king pin box was welded to the frame. I would guess that appropriate gussets would help the situation, and that was my repair approach. Because of the trailer "skin" there was not room for very large gussets, but modifying the skin could make some room, but it might look a little "trashy'.

I used very small gussets as well as rewelding the torn areas, and got rid of the adaptor.

I would be reluctant to try it again unless the trailer manufacturer was very positive it would handle the stress. Having a warranty would not have made me feel a lot better when I looked in the mirror and could see significant movement between the pin box and the body of the fiver. I knew immediately that there was a real problem. I was fortuanate as we were on 395 in Eastern Calif. where towns can be far apart, but were only a couple miles from Susanville when I noticed it.



Vaughn
 
Thanks for the knowledge. When I first saw these, I thought "great, just what I need!" but hen also wondered about the leverage on the pin box. I also figured, since there are several of these out on the market, they must work and be ok. If I planned on more trailering, I agree, a full blown 5th hitch would be great. In my case, it wouldn't be but a few times a year.



I'll be sure to ask a lot of questions and research a lot when I go shopping. Thanks folks!
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but here's an excerpt from the website of one of the more reputable gooseneck adapter manufacturers:

A word of caution is in order about the use of the Cody Coupler! Because of its design, additional pressure may be placed on the "King Pin" of the trailer it is mounted on. This is a result of the leveraging action involved. Because of this, we feel it is wise to mention several steps that should be taken by the owner of such a rig. These are "common sense" suggestions that could and should apply to any type of trailer hook-up.



REGULARLY INSPECT THE INSTALLATION OF THE COUPLER

Make certain the "King Pin" is securely attached to the Pin Box. Occasionally, additional reinforcement might be advisable.



AVOID THE "POP-A-WHEELY SYNDROME"

Smooth, even starts and stops are always better than the jerky motion.



TRAILER BRAKES SHOULD ALWAYS BE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER!

And properly hooked up.



Rusty
 
Originally posted by Sakanuts

Alan, one more question. It looks from the pictures of the Hawkeye that there would be a lot of stress applied to the underbed gooseneck frame, as there is a lot of leverage applied to the gooseneck hole area from the length of the 5th wheel assembly from the GN hole up to the point where the trailer pin is engaged. Has this ever worried you? Or is there some sort of mechanism that would cancell this out...



I suspect the fiver hitch would put more torque on the GN ball socket than a GN ball, but the underbed hitch is pretty beefy. I recall that on their website, Putnam rates the fiver hitch lower than just the gooseneck ball.
 
I'm having a turnover ball

installed on my s. b. tuesday with a 9''extendo on the 5th to goose ball... but is only rated to 15k
 
Re: I'm having a turnover ball

Originally posted by carson6

(I'm having a turnoverball) installed on my s. b. tuesday with a 9''extendo on the 5th to goose ball

I'm sincerely very sorry to hear that. :(



Rusty
 
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