Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) "Saving Private Carter"- Moving the lift pump cheaply

[Sticks]

I love it when these old threads come back up.



I moved mine to the the frame about a month and a half ago. 16. 5psi at idle, 14. 5 at 80 mph on the highway, and I have yet to pull it below 12psi. $75 in parts, and a couple hours in labor. There are 5 of us in the Denver area that have used the same parts to move the pump, on different years of truck, and different levels of mods. One has stage 3 injectors and a blue chip box (555hp) with the same psi's that I get. His has been on for about 6 months now.

 

[scotty1]

Our Max Flow is giving folks with 450-500 HP similar results with stock pump in stock position. Our Metric custom fittings have a much larger inner diam then the weber fittings and our Industrial Aeroquip 90's and straights used with the braided teflon hose are also much larger inner diameter. The sweeps of our 90's are less restrictive and flow smoother too.



Theres a lot of options out there. A few hours and around $150. 00 USD gets this system.



Its nice to see alternatives and options. For some reason when I moved the pump to the rear, it failed after 15,000 kilometers. Maybe it was a dud pump.



Scotty

 

[Ncostello]

Your using Teflon in the Max Flow Kits? Braided teflon hose alone is worth alot in terms of reducing restriction. Nothing sticks to it!!



I looked at teflon hoses for my pressure side hoses... but the prices locally were too high when I had them pre-built with all the fittings. But one things for sure... they are totally resistant to diesel... and about everything else for that matter!



Rod (Wildcat Diesel) sent me some of his earlier -6AN to M12 adapters. I'm using them at the VP and lift pump with perfect results



There really is a whole bunch of things you can do different to help the stock lift pump in my opinion. The "includes everything" kits are nice and save lots of time. The key is to do something... and if it dont work do something else.



I'm not a believer in the stock Cummins setup.

 

[Ncostello]

One note: I know my pump move worked for me. Even with a new pump in the OE location, changing a filter was always a nightmare. Even when I cracked fittings to let air escape no fuel would pump.



Now... I simply open the filter drain and it will instantly begin pumping fuel to purge the air. And there is a big sound difference in a pump thats pumping fuel versus one thats spinning in an air pocket. And some times I dont even need to do that. It will pull fuel without any assistance what so ever.

 

[scotty1]

Even with all the success some of us have had with the stock pump by altering the factory system, I should add that I put a Holley Blue in the stock position and it was good for over 50,000 kilometers and is still running strong for the guy that bought it.

I 'got stuck' with the blue because I had two failed blacks and then there was not another Black at the shop I was getting them from... this worked out nice for me.



Its always nice to do some of the tweaking ourselves as opposed to having it all done for us. Even if I had to bathe in some diesel.







Scotty

 

[Mille4212]

Maybe someone can tell me the difference between the Carter (P74213) and the (P4106HP) ? My LP is on its way out and after the dealer replaces it under warranty I'll relocate it. But after the warranty is up, If you could buy one of these pumps at Autozone or where ever with the lifetime warranty your money ahead, compared to the FASS or PREPORATOR with only a 2 year warranty IMO.



Thanks for any info.

 

[CFast]

So does this work on an 01? Are the bango fittings similar to the older style fuel filter canister? I haven' really looked a mine all that well, but I know it looks different from the one in these pics.

 

[Ncostello]

Yes it will. I recently obtained a 2002 filter canister to play with. The only difference is that you will attach the supply line to the side (toward the rear of the truck) of your canister rather than the top. You will have spare banjo fittings you can use with fuel hose and clamps.



For these newer filters, I would probably get a -6AN x M12x1. 5mm adapter (Weber adapter) in either aluminum or steel and use a 90 degree elbow -6 fitting. The aeroquip socketless 90 elbows will work with plain fuel hose along with a small clamp. The left over banjos on 2000 up filters have a tiny ID compared to the 99 fittings I had.

 

[CFast]

so i can eliminate the bango fittings altogether? I can get all the weather head fittings from my work, and plenty hose braided steel line, just wondering if I can get fittings to replace all those banjo bolts.

 

[Ncostello]

You could do that... since you can get the fittings fairly cheap I assume. The only thing I dont think weatherhead offers are adapters to go from -6AN (commonly called JIC 37 degree by weatherhead) to the metric threads on the filter and VP44.



Aeroquip Corp. makes aluminum versions of them. WildCat Diesel sells steel versions. I like the steel although I painted mine before installing to keep corrosion to a minimum under the truck... keeping the sealing surfaces and threads clean of course while painting.

 

[DHoleman]

I'm interested sign me up. 1st FP Gauges/Kits Where can they be located? Wheres the better place to get lift pumps, and don't tell me the dealership either. With 53000+ miles I'm getting alot concerned about this lift pump thing, even though i'm a pm on time type of person. Thanks to all who contributed. Great job. Iknow what I'll be looking Forward to,Ihope this lasts at least til it gets warm... DHoleman

 

[Ncostello]

DHoleman... almost any vendor under the site sponsors section can hook you up with a FP gauge at a great price. They can supply you with all you'll need. An electric or mechanical gauge will work. If you dont want an all out gauge cluster a simple under dash bracket will do the job. You could do a PM pressure check on the lift pump every oil change with a test gauge but to me that is not enough. Fuel pressure needs monitored constantly like any other vital information to your trucks health. Fuel pressure is too dynamic to simply check once in a while.



I purchased my pump at my local Cummins shop. They had one available and the price was average... around $140. Before you get one gauge yours. It may be fine for years to come. One PM thing you can do to the pump is remove it and take the top cover off. Flip over the rubber gasket to get a new seal and snug the hold down bolts up good. They apply some dielectric grease to the connectors and make sure no corrosion is evident at the plugs. Sometimes the simple things will bring you down when overlooked.



Most site sponsors can probably get lift pumps at good prices too. You really wont find better prices or service than right here. These folks know our trucks and understand our needs.