Just my thoughts,
I would not want a pump that is maxed out to the limit, so fine tuned it BREAKs $$$$. $$. I want a nice detuned pump that will LAST with F4's (or whatever injector) and the Smarty (do not screw with the VP44 electronics).
I would not tap a pump wire. Warrantee. Do we REALLY know what it is doing when the wire is tapped? Exactely what happens to the electronics with a tapped wire?, and is it within range of that electronic component to do that?
I would change injectors and put a Smarty (ECM electronics) on it. Read the miles of post of tap or not to tap, do they warantee it if the wire is taped? etc etc etc, why not just do injectors and quit jerking the solenoid and the other internal electronics around, that is a major cause of failure. Let the da. . pump , pump!
I would ask what is REBUILT? There was a thread about rebuilts changed the advance piston system from brass to steel so it would wear better. What is different in the electronics?, which electronics?, there is a pump control module, there is an advance module, and I think I remember one other electronic module (I do not have my book on the VP44 here), what is done to the vane pump?, are all the check valves replaced?, what about the pistons?, solenoid?, and a 1000 other components.
I think it is splitting hairs on the major rebuilders about exactely what they change. Scheid or II is not going to be in business long if they do not rebuild to the best of their ability at the price. I would even consider having a pump rebuilt especially for me and not go with the least cost rebuild, but go with the very best rebuild possible. The very best rebuild is going to cost more of course, and it should. Maybe they should offer two different levels of rebuild, standard and maximum? They have to stay in business so pay them for what they do!
Now that you have your new pump, take care of it. Lubricated fuel (every tank full), NO free water (yep you probably have to add a much better water seperator and filter), keep the fuel temp down as much as possible (other threads on that), keep the fuel temp minimum so it does not gell, keep the lp (whatever you use) up in the 14# range (Bosch specs) and feed the flippen VP44 with GOOD pressure AND GOOD volume.
Yep you have to rebuild most of the fuel system to do the above. DC did a **** poor job on the fuel system, but ... . YOU own it now! so go fix it if you are going to keep it.
It is a SYSTEM, not just a VP44.
I'll go sit down, thanks for the soap box,
Bob Weis