Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Screwed up while making Governor Lever Arm Adjustment

[DFerguson]

Screwed up while making Governor Lever Arm Adjustment



I own a 96 2WD (P7100 pump) with auto transmission. Truck has a TST #8 plate, 3000 rpm GSK, and timing has been bumped to 15. 75 degrees. The transmission has been rebuilt with a DTT master overhaul kit and DTT torque converter. After the GSK and timing mods were done the truck never had the low end boost response that it did prior to these mods. After reading several threads and talking with different TDR members and PDR it was suggested that I check the adjustment of the Governor Lever Arm. I did this and found that yes the arm was contacting the plate very low below the tip of the bottom nose on the plate. I had to turn the adjusting stud almost all the way out to get the lever to contact the plate just below the of the bottom nose on the plate.

Here is where my nightmare begins…I was attempting to back the stud out to put loctite on it when I dropped it into the pump. I tried to retrieve the stud and 10mm lock nut with a pencil magnet for 2 hours with no luck. I even removed the cam plate and tried from that angle. I checked the position of the lever arm with no stud/lock nut and it was still very close to where it should be. I took a gamble that the stud/lock nut would just fall to the bottom of the pump housing (against my better judgment) and put everything back together. For a couple of days the truck ran great. The low end performance was back (boost would quickly build to 33 psi) and the GSK allowed it to freely rev to 3000 rpm. Life was great until last night when approaching a red light the engine did not want to idle down. In drive with brakes on rpm was at 1300. After light turned green the truck accelerated to 70 mph with my foot not even on the accelerator. I got the truck home but the front brakes may never be the same. I have a new respect for the torque of the 5. 9.

Questions:

What are my options?

Is the plug on the back of the pump below the data plate for access/drain or does it hold something in place?

Can the back rear section of the pump be removed while pump is still on engine?

Is the back section of the pump all mechanical (could the stud/locknut have caused major internal damage in that area?

If pump needs to be removed do any of you have step by step directions?

Does anyone have a drawing showing the internals of the back section of the P7100 pump?



Sorry for the long post………thanks in advance for advice from those of you that really know your way around the P7100.



I live in Athens, Al …. if the pump needs to come off to be serviced who do you recommend/trust.



Thanks,



Don

 

[vssman]

I've read this happening several times. You probably bent the governor 'arms' in the pump when they hit the floating parts. I believe I read that the pump needs to be R&R'd to fix it.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

for future reference and/or anyone that's trying to fish stuff out of a P7100, I've had good luck with the flexible style magnets. sorry about your nightmare, I've heard of guys bending the governor studs back, but the pump's definately coming out

 

[CogginsP]

You can take the TDC timing pin plug out and hope for the best. A lot of oil will drain out and you will be able to see inside your pump a little better. As far as your pump goes it sounds like it is pretty much shot to me.

 

[Tom C]

DFerguson,

I have dropped a governor spring, spacer and the adjusting nut down in the pump once. Took many hours (and beers) to get them out. But it is possible to remove (fish out) the dropped parts. I used a pencil magnet that the head of the magnet could bend and rotate.

So did you put the pump back together without the washer and nut? That is without the washer and nut in the correct place... :-laf Maybe your adjustment went bad for lack of being locked. That would be your best case scenario. I wold fish out the parts and check that your lever is still in adjustment. if that does not help then I guess the pumps coming out. Might also look at the retrieved parts to see if they are damaged. That would tell you if they collided with anything.

Good Luck,

Tom

PS: I retrieved the parts through the top with the plate removed.

 

[JGK]

My recommendation is DO NOT RUN THAT ENGINE WITH THOSE PARTS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GOVERNOR HOUSING! Get a magnet through the back plate where you adjusted the lever and fish them out. You can do it. A friend of mine did it twice on his. I fished parts smaller than that nut and screw out of mine. You may have to bar the engine over to move the governor weights to be able to sweep the magnet around the bottom of the housing, but it will find the parts.



The reason for the warning is, you don't want those parts flying around inside the housing! They may be lying in the bottom now, but if they get scooped up with oil splashing around in there, they can do major damage. I know. I had the rack pin break (1 inch long, about 1/16 inch in diameter) and it took off a c-clip and washer on the governor linkage and bent one of the governor spring studs. $1300 to repair at the local Bosch shop!



-Jay

 

[Forrest Nearing]

he's already got damage

 

[JGK]

Yeah, Forrest, I missed that. Skimming too fast!



Don, get our your wallet. I think you're in for expensive repairs to the pump.



-Jay