serious brake issues

[americana]

so....it's been a while...what the heck is a 'sticky thread'?

some time ago I took my truck to a 'renowned' member owned diesel repair shop in the SF Bay Area. I had taken my truck there several times for stuff....100kmi service, buy/install a FASS, smog (my PCM is acting up and keeps throwing a code so they are kind enough to put a 'loaner' PCM on it) etc.

The last time I was there I asked if the brakes needed attention...they said: "they're fine...10% left." Well a couple hundred miles later the pads wore through (I don't tow) and ruined the rotors.

I took it to a mid-Peninsula tire/service place in Redwood City (right next to my town) and they haven't been able to get it right. Less than 500mi after my first visit, I'm on my second set of rotors and pads, a couple of brake leaks etc. Right now they're trying to find a proportioning valve and they say they aren't available. I've checked Geno's with no luck.

Do any of you learned folks know where I can get one for my '98.5 Sport?

thanks,

 

[JMcCoy]

Good luck finding a new one. Been down that road. I would make all the repairs first. Replace your calipers and Brake hoses as well before looking at a proportioning valve.

Is your brake light on?

Your proportioning valve is actually a combination valve. It also delays the front brakes to allow the drums to catch up. It also has a slide valve that cuts off flow if uneven pressure is detected, as in a leak. If the mechanic pushed too hard while bleeding the brakes, the valve may have cut off flow to the rear. The brake light will usually illuminate.

If that does not fix your problem, I just replace my proportioning valve since I swapped in rear disc brakes and found a disk brake combination valve on Ebay.

With all that said, you are welcome to my mine. $25 will probably get it from Florida to California.

 

[JR]

The rear drum brakes have been historically weak. The rear proportioning valve is mounted up by the frame, and has an arm with a lever attached to the rear axle. As load (weight) in the bed increases and the distance between the valve and the axle decreases the rod and lever open up the valve more to allow more rear brake bias. I disconnected the rod on my 98 many years ago and rotated the lever up to improve the rear brake bias. It made a noticeable difference in braking, I did not turn it all the way up but as I recall it was pretty close to full open. This is something you can do in a matter of minutes and will confirm wether or not you really need a valve or the shop is just throwing parts at a problem. They normally do not go bad but I suppose anything can fail.

 

[Timd32]

so....it's been a while...what the heck is a 'sticky thread'?

It's just a thread that sticks to the top of the list. Not sure you can comment in those either they might be locked down. Usually has FAQ or some other info.

 

[americana]

I'll pass this along to the mechanics. I'll also call the Diesel specialists in the east bay that said my brakes had 10%. The rotors, pads and the brake lines are new. Actually changed a couple of times because the brakes were overheating. This sucks, I love my truck.

 

[JR]

Did they inspect the rears at all? Enough shoe thickness, properly adjusted, etc. If the rears have not been adjusted in a long time they will be essentially useless, leaving the fronts to do all the braking.

 

[JMcCoy]

I agree with the above that it is likely a rear brake issue. I would zip-tie the rear PV up, install GM wheel cylinders, and make sure the drums are lubed and adjusted properly. Then see where your at.

 

[JR]

I agree with the above that it is likely a rear brake issue. I would zip-tie the rear PV up, install GM wheel cylinders, and make sure the drums are lubed and adjusted properly. Then see where your at.

This is exactly what I did with my 98, but was trying to K.I.S.S. with Americana given he was presumably satisfied with his brakes prior to this issue. But yes I would whole heartedly recommend everything you mentioned. Not one upgrade makes a world of difference but combined they all help .

 

[Joe Mc]

I got tired of playing with the rear drums and for around $700 got a disk conversion kit, probably back 08. Funny the parts that were used to make up the kit = 2500 GMC Rear rotors, 76-78 Eldorado calipers (since I wanted an E-brake) and 2005 Ram 1500 front hoses. Kit was pretty complete and a little welding (tabs to mount caliper hose to axle tube and E-brake cables) was needed.

 

[ROBERT S HAUN]

The rear drum brakes have been historically weak. The rear proportioning valve is mounted up by the frame, and has an arm with a lever attached to the rear axle. As load (weight) in the bed increases and the distance between the valve and the axle decreases the rod and lever open up the valve more to allow more rear brake bias. I disconnected the rod on my 98 many years ago and rotated the lever up to improve the rear brake bias. It made a noticeable difference in braking, I did not turn it all the way up but as I recall it was pretty close to full open. This is something you can do in a matter of minutes and will confirm wether or not you really need a valve or the shop is just throwing parts at a problem. They normally do not go bad but I suppose anything can fail.[/QUO

 

[ROBERT S HAUN]

I read a post several years ago they installed chevrolet 2500-3500 wheel cyls. on the rear of the Dodge to greatly improve apply press. Not sure of the year or part #..The wheel cyls. are larger bore.. Good luck.

 

[KATOOM]

The 2nd gen with drums have three valves in the brake line. The Combination valve, the Pressure Metering valve, and Proportioning valve, plus the RWAL unit. The rear drums are very strong too but people fail to make sure the star adjuster works or seized from corrosion and then they fall out of adjustment.

 

[Joe Mc]

KATOOM, BINGO! I always made sure the star adjuster threads were clean, no burs, etc and lubed with a good anti-seize. Just got tired of the whole drum thing.

 

[mini14]

you can remove the rear brake proportioning valve by the rear axle and replace with this,
https://www.circletracksupply.com/e...g-valve-eliminator-hose-98-99-dodge-2500.html
I used it on mine which was rusted out


dorman also has a less expensive version but don't have the link.