Shift Knob

[Stroke This 24V]

Does anyone know if you can replace the shift knob on the 6 speed? If so is it splined or threaded or both?

 

[CRegal]

I replaced mine with an aftermarket shifter knob due to the fact the stocker just felt funny. You have to pop out the insert(the thing with the gear pattern on it) Once that is popped out. . u will c a nut u can easly remove with a socket. Then depending on the new knob, attach it according to the directions.



Cole

 

[Bob Cochran]

Change the knob!!! If I did that I could never tell when to make an oil change. One rotation of insert equals time to change oil!!!

 

[Bigsaint]

Eaton Fuller

I added on of these, courtesy of Auto Wurks Diesel (973-226-7800). Still one of my favorite BOMB's.



http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1231655&a=9089608&p=51797304&Sequence=0&res=high



Scott W.

 

[DarrellB]

Now I Know Why It Does That

Bob, Thanks now I know why the pattern keps rotating. I have had mine fixed twice under warranty and quit fixing it after the warranty expired. Now I just tell people it's a reverse 5spd , the bad thing is some people believe me



Thanks for the tip Bob



Later

Big D

 

[Rattlebox]

Big Saint, would it be possible to tie in the BD brake with the Hi-Lo splitter ? That would be sweet

 

[Bob Cochran]

BigD ~ your welcome I tried putting a dab of sillicon in the groove and stuffed the thing back in this last Saturday. Will let you know if it works but I will lose the aid!!!!

 

[Bigsaint]

Rattlebox, that would be way cool , but both of those levers on the Eaton Fuller are set up for air operation, would take some serious BOMBing IMHO.



Scott W.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Using air shifter controls for e-brake

Bigsaint & Rattlebox,



I am working the air control angle for the e-brake here too. Another member was looking into how the controls worked, reminds me, I need to contact him. Basically what I am thinking is using the air controls for vacuum. As I understand, there would be a supply line and then a switched loop to whatever you want to control. I am thinking of the e-brake through a vacuum controlled electric switch and direct vacuum control of the 2- wheel low modification. I don't actually think the mod is that difficult, unless I am not fully comprehending how these air switches work. The vacuum lines would run down the gear shift and out the shifter boot.



You gain a cool shifter knob with functional switches and eliminate the typically installed 2-speed axle switch for the e-brake plus the separately mounted 2-wheel low switch. Maybe I am crazy, but I am going to pursue this angle until proven It can't be done or I succeed.



Shelby

 

[Bigsaint]

Sounds good Shelby, I'll be watching for your post.



Scott W.

 

[Okie-Go]

Bigsaint, super neat. You could tell someone it was a 13 speed and just clutch it and go on, they would never know. I like it.

 

[RustyJC]

Let's see, my shift pattern insert has turned clockwise 90* in 1000 miles. By my math, that's 1* every 11. 1 miles, or 360* in 4000 miles. Gee, maybe it IS DC's pore boy version of a service reminder like the computerized one I have in my Volvo - 1-1/2 revolutions for 6000 mile service; 3 revolutions for 12000 mile service. Wonder if I could tack-weld that sucker?



Rusty

 

[EScott]

My current aftermarket shifter knob is starting to look kinda shabby and this thread reminded me that I needed to order a new one. I don't have my FSM handy can someone tell me what the thread pattern is on the shifter? (00' 5spd)

 

[Bob V]

I like it. The Fuller knob is what I was looking for. I've done some checking and it could be used for control of both the E-brake and a 2 low kit. So far it looks like the valves in the knob will handle vacume. I agree with Shelby, use a vacume switch to electrically control the E-brake and then you could use the other for the two low kit, or control a four-way valve if you wanted to be able to engage the front axle at any time. I will post more later.

Bob V.

 

[Bigsaint]

All I can say is this, the Eaton Fuller knob just has that "right feel" to it. Hard to sum it up but the height/grip is so much better than the OEM knob that I am more than happy with it, whether the switches work or not. If we can get them to be functional, it would just be a bonus for me. I find it much easier to find the gears with the EF. Keep up the R+D guys, thats what makes this site so great IMHO.



Scott W.

 

[Bob Cochran]

Hey all I have to make a disclaimer!!! Someone else some time ago posted the idea here about rotation of insert a good indicator to determine oil change interval. I read it and liked it and had to repeat here as it fit!!! Who ever originally said it can take credit now!!!

 

[JJRSMP12]

Got an eaton!

Big Saint,

I picked up a shift knob just like the one you have, but the threads are too large for the original shaft. how did you attach it>?

 

[Bob V]

Here is an update on what I found so far. First the knob I'm working with is a Eaton/Fuller part # FUL A6913. There are two valves in this knob that are interlocked so that only one can be engaged at a time. This interlock can be defeated by disassembling the knob and cutting off two ears off of the red operator. Note that there are small spring loaded parts that can go flying!These valves will work fine for vacuum operation, but the ports in the valves are too small to directly directly operate a e-brake. And the type of porting would only work on a single action actuator such as the Jacobs brake uses. You could use a vacuum switch that would be controlled by one of the valves and would interrupt the circuit for e-brake solenoid valve. As for the front axel lockout or two low kit you can use one of the valves just as it is to shut off the vacuum to the transfer case valve that controls the front axel disconnect. Unfortunately with this system you must operate the valve on the knob BEFORE you shift into 4LOW, and you can not engage and disengage the front axel without shifting the transfer case back to 2WD. A vacuum piloted four way valve could be controlled by one of the valves in the knob would give more flexibility as a 2WL kit. Now for how the valves are configured. The ports for the black toggle lever are marked "S"-RED for vacuum in and "P" for out, note that down is on. The ports for the red slide operator are marked H/L-GRN for vacuum in and SP-BLU for out.

Hope this helps

Bob V

 

[Bigsaint]

JJRSMP12, a brass coupler was resized to fit the threads of the EF knob, I don't recall the thread size of the EF, but I would just take it to a good hardware/plumbing supply store and find a coupler that will fit both the shifts threads and the Ef's threads, sorry I don't know the correct size off hand. I used the existing lock nut to secure the EF from spinning after use, I would suggest that you place a rubber washer between the lock nut and the coupler. I didn't have one at first, developed a horrible rattle that the rubber washer took care of.



Bob V, good info, thanks !!!



Scott W.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Way to go Bob V

Great work Bob. Am I seeing a new kit on the horizon? I have not had time to look into this, but sounds like you about have it figured out. Keep us posted.



Shelby