Should I buy a 2012 or wait for the 2013?

[JSoloman]

Guys, I need some help here. I'm thinking it's getting time to look at buying a new Cummins. I have an '01 2500 I bought new in July 2000. I have really enjoyed this truck. I currently am towing a new 30' 5th wheel with it and it does fine, but I keep reading about the 4th gens with more HP and of course more torque, esp with the automatic.

So, here's the deal, I can get into a '12 3500 4x4, with the 6 spd auto 4. 10 gears for just under $37K. The offer without any dickering on my rig is $10K. The '12 is only $4K more than I paid for my '01. Of course I bought the Laramie and this one is the SLT.

Alot of you have done this a time or two or three As you can see, I buy for quality and longevity. And if I do this, it will be another 12+ yrs before I do it again. . or not.



Any words of wisdom? I want to make a wise choice here.



Thanks...

 

[rrl989]

I'd wait for the MY14s which can be ordered as of June 5th. If you are looking for the lowest price, then the leftovers are the way to go, soon to be 2 MYs old!. I think over the next couple of weeks we'll hear more about the 13' 2500s and whether the DEF is an improvement? Maybe you'll regret a 12'?

 

[JHumphries]

A lot of it depends on your usage. If you only use it to tow with, haul stuff, and generally work the engine more often than not, then take the price cut and go for the '12. If you use it for commuting, light loads, and towing less than half of the time, then I would wait and see how the DEF improves the mileage and soot load for lightly used trucks. If it turns out well, then go for the '13 sitting on the lot when the '14s are coming out. :-laf

 

[RustyJC]

It all depends. My early 2011 is just a lil' ole 350/650 6. 7 and handles our 16,000 lb GVWR 5th wheel (see signature) just fine. Obviously, a 350/800 2012 truck should do even better. If you must have the latest and greatest, by all means wait for the 2013/2014 (whatever Ram ultimately calls it), but there are going to be some screaming deals on 2012s that are perfectly capable trucks.



Rusty

 

[JJPage]

I'd have a hard time parting with the 01, especially the great service it continues to provide. Unless you really need the $ for the new purchase, I would not trade it at this point. $10K will be achievable later on if condition warrants.

As far as a new truck , which year??? That's gotta be the hardest decision ever! Good Luck!

 

[wyosteve]

I went through the same decision process last Nov. I had an 04. 5 which I bought new and it gave me 8 yrs. of trouble free service. I decided to go with a '12 due to the fact it seemed most of the 'bugs' had been worked out and with the discounts and rebates, I don't know that I would ever make up that money even if the '13's get 10% better fuel economy and fewer oil changes. So far, I've been happy with my decision.

 

[AH64ID]

There are some definite benefits to the 13 but the 12 will definitely be cheaper and perform nearly as well as the 13 will. The torque difference is one thing but there's also things like the central axle disconnect on the front and DEF which are supposed to improve mileage and numerous other little interior add ons but anyhow the 12 or 13 will be leaps and bounds ahead of the 01 in terms of interior comforts.

If you're not a rush waiting nine months to a year may not be a bad idea considering will give the new motor chance to get any kinks worked out find out how well it actually performs.

 

[JSoloman]

I appreciate all the great advise and what you've experienced. The take home message here is even though I want the "perfect" rig, there will always be another model year out there improving on the year before. I either gotta hold my nose and jump in or stand on the edge and wait for that perfect moment. And we know that may be a long wait.
Thanks guys.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

If it was me I would wait for the 13 truck. Short oil change intervals on the 10s-12s would make me quite unhappy.

 

[rscurtis]

There are some definite benefits to the 13 but the 12 will definitely be cheaper and perform nearly as well as the 13 will. The torque difference is one thing but there's also things like the central axle disconnect on the front and DEF which are supposed to improve mileage and numerous other little interior add ons but anyhow the 12 or 13 will be leaps and bounds ahead of the 01 in terms of interior comforts.

If you're not a rush waiting nine months to a year may not be a bad idea considering will give the new motor chance to get any kinks worked out find out how well it actually performs.

According to what TC diesel has seen on the lot, the 2500 does not use the FAD. That feature is reserved for the new 3500 SRW. As soon as the local dealer has one on the lot, I'll take a look to satisfy my curiosity.

 

[AH64ID]

Interesting... thou I think CAD was a wasted upgrade. Give us a standard axle with hubs, better mileage and more reliable than a CAD.

 

[JSoloman]

Help me out guys. We've gone this long without hubs. Why now is it important? I get the fuel mileage, less wear and tear on the front end. Don't get me wrong here. I am leaning toward the '13, but am I going to find it for $38k? The oil change interval on the '12 is a bit concerning. I like deciding when myself.

 

[RonD]

You will have to make all the decisions, but mine is used 90% for towing, and 18 months later I have zero complaints, a great truck, for towing the DEF will not offer much in MPG improvement, the added oil change scheduel to 15K doesn't interest me much, I have and always do 5-7 k oil changes anyway

 

[crabjoe]

As long as you keep your ride, get the '13. The '13 has the new interior, better fuel mileage and longer oil change intervals. If you get the 3500, you also get the new 50KSI frame and 3 link radius arm suspension. If the new 3 link front suspension makes it less likely to get the death wobble, it's worth every penny in the upfront price difference, just by itself!

 

[NIsaacs]

So, here's the deal, I can get into a '12 3500 4x4, with the 6 spd auto 4. 10 gears



Any words of wisdom? I want to make a wise choice here.



Thanks...

Since you will be towing heavy I think this would be the selling point. You will be stuck with 3. 42's on the '13's unless you go with a dually.



Nick

 

[AH64ID]

Help me out guys. We've gone this long without hubs. Why now is it important? I get the fuel mileage, less wear and tear on the front end. Don't get me wrong here. I am leaning toward the '13, but am I going to find it for $38k? The oil change interval on the '12 is a bit concerning. I like deciding when myself.

The lack of hubs on the '03-'12 trucks has always been a sore spot for many, so it's nothing new. Unfortunately CAD doesn't fix it, just makes the mileage better.

Since you will be towing heavy I think this would be the selling point. You will be stuck with 3. 42's on the '13's unless you go with a dually.

Nick

Good point, I forgot about that stupid little fact.

 

[NIsaacs]

Good point, I forgot about that stupid little fact.

For some reason (I have no clue why) Dodge is pushing the 3. 42 gear set. For referance; the 2012 model 2500 Cummins, 3. 42 auto is rated 17k gcw but the same 2013 model is rated 25k gcw



Nick

 

[Jim W]

Since you will be towing heavy I think this would be the selling point. You will be stuck with 3. 42's on the '13's unless you go with a dually.



Nick

I guess I do not understand the issue with everybody complaining about the 3:42 gear ration on the2500HD/3500HD SRW trucks for the model year 2013?



The trucks are able to handle the following loads from the Ram Body Builders site; GVWR is 12,300 LBS the GAWR is 7,000 LBS the GCVW is 25,000 LBS and the Trail Equip. Wgt. is 17,000 Lbs. To me this is more than adequately enough truck to pull most 5th wheel campers, all except the most massive ones.



Do you honestly believe that the powertrain engineers do not understand what they are doing when designing the axle ratio for these trucks?



The engine in the newer model trucks such as the 2013 has more HP and torque available and this will affect the powertrain design choices so to me the 3:42 is no issue to be concerned about.



Jim W.

 

[RustyJC]

The 3. 42 gears are there to squeeze a fractional MPG gain for the government's CAFE requirements, not to enhance the towing capabilities or experience. They will effectively render 6th gear useless for towing, unlike the 4. 10s. Not a good match for towing with double overdrive automatics.

Rusty

 

[AH64ID]

Exactly, they are an EPA and mileage decision and nothing more.

A truck with 3. 42's will put 20% less torque to the ground at the same gear and engine torque at a truck with 4. 10's. 3. 42's not only effect the ability to use all 6 gears when towing, but also add a lot of strain when towing heavy at slow speeds, such as winding mountain roads.

A truck that lives at 65-75 with a trailer attached will not really feel the effect (other than not using 6th) but someone who stops and goes, does slow steep climbs, pulls thru fields, etc will certainly notice.

The motor can make the torque to overcome it, but it takes more power to do the same work.