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Should I?

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Should I? (see thread)


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1989 Hits 355 hp

How should Daniel spend his hard earned $$$

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Should I? (new tires/wheels)

I'm going to have this truck until after my next deployment which is probably a little over a year from now. I bought some 265/75R16 Mastercraft Courser CTs but I can't have a truck and not mod it... I am considering putting on 285s with black steel wheels and selling the 265s since I've only had them for over a week and there's maybe 200 miles on them. I wouldn't lose much thanks to the military discount, I paid $770 for them installed and balanced.



Should I?
 
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Keep the 265's and spend the money on go fast goodies! Newer trucks are the ones supposed to be "all show; no go!" Just think of the look on somebody's face when they get smoked by a woman in a 1st gen!
 
Have it your way.....

Big tires are nice and may make the truck look better sitting still but... ... . More speed, smoke and power brings a bigger smile in my opinion.
 
Mod Info

Well, proof that I don't think of everything! :-laf Truthfully, I'd like wider versus taller but I can work with these tires.



Before continuing to read: feel free to post links for me. I don't expect y'all to type what's already been asked and answered and I like doing research on my own but having help pointing me in the right direction and giving me hint on what's BS is appreciated. ;)



Mods it has are a Volant air intake for Gen. 2 12-valve and fuel pump turned up. I'd like to do the exhaust next. I'd like louder but I have to consider the next owner may not want extremely loud. So, what are my options for loud but not deafening? :D I'm more experienced with exhausts/mufflers/etc for gassers and I don't know of any differences on diesels. Other affordable (and I don't necessarily mean cheap!) mods? I'm considering the 16mm turbo housing and, though I know its not power-enhancing, the steering fix from Borgeson.



How have you guys gotten the sleeve off the power screw off? I can't seem to get anything to work to get it off. And from my understanding, the only ways to get more speed out of it (above 70 mph and walking away with a cramped foot) is to change the rpm spring or bigger tires?
 
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The spring will help but there are other routes as well and will work with or with out the tighter spring.



I have modified the OEM spring (shorten it) to gain rpm's

Modify the throttle linkage(s) to gain further travel

remove the governor high speed adjusting screw or back it out of the way.



-S
 
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So, what are my options for loud but not deafening?

I would go for a 4 inch system. Mine came with a muffler, but the pipe was long enough so that it could have been installed without the muffler.

That would give you options.

I used the muffler, and since I do a lot of highway driving I don't get a drone, yet the sounds is pretty nice and "throaty" when I lean on it a bit.
 
KMSCD said:
I'm going to have this truck until after my next deployment which is probably a little over a year from now. I bought some 265/75R16 Mastercraft Courser CTs but I can't have a truck and not mod it... I am considering putting on 285s with black steel wheels and selling the 265s since I've only had them for over a week and there's maybe 200 miles on them. I wouldn't lose much thanks to the military discount, I paid $770 for them installed and balanced.



Should I?

KMSCD, Do you know where your new deployment will be, Stateside?, Sounds like you have a fun, practical toy. If you are going overseas dont waste your finances. The person who buys that rig from you may pull the engine and use it in a snow cat or a tundra buggy. Who knows? Have you done an oil sample analysis on your engine, Fixed the KDP and made sure the cam bearing bolts are tight? My point is that a person can focus on the externals and forget or neglect the very items that will really hold the value of the truck. A Dodge/ Cummins with all the latest tricks is worthless if your motors flaws show themselves after all the externals are bought and installed. Its like painting a barn that has a crumbling foundation. Prioritize. My opinion, no offense. Hope you have a great future. Semper Fi. GregH.
 
GHarman, I'm not slotted to go again until September 2007 but that could possibly change because my career field in the Air Force is going to 6 month deployments as opposed to the majority of the AF staying at 4 month deployments. My first deployment was May '05 and I was supposed to go again May '06 but since I PCS'd up here, they changed my deployment slot. It would be one thing if I were deploying soon, no problem not modding but I have year and I can't not mod! I mean, I can't really mod my horse and he's got everything he needs so that leaves the truck. :D



So, how much louder would it be with 4" single pipe and no muffler? I'd like to try to save on shipping if I can and just go with something that's already up here. I have always been partial to Flowmaster Original 40-Series mufflers.



I'll be looking into the things suggested too. Thank you.
 
KMSCD,Am doing some mods to my truck out of necessity. Wear and tear upgrades. I bought one of the group buy exhaust systems posted on TDR. Dont have it installed as yet. Have trans and clutch work to do first. My helpers mom was in an auto wreck and seriously injured. Truck got sidelined. My lifter dont work as well as it did when I was your age. I imagine no muffler would be loud, but only the bears would care. I am considering doing some repiping on the breathing system. No one makes specific replacements for the hose from the filter box to the turbo and turbo through the intercooler to the intake stack on the preheat grid. My piping is poorly fit and has to many bends. To much turbulence. Those issues restrict air flow. At over 9000' elevation more air never hurts. Have a lot of tweeking to do as well. Have fun. Semper Fi. GregH.
 
Take the muffler off and try it. If you don't have it turned way up that will be enough. I have a 16cm housing and the original pipe minus muffler, it sounds good. I am going to a 4" system but I am putting on stacks and definetly falling down the slippery hill to ever more HP.
 
go to your local muffler shop and get them to take muffler out I personally think you will love the sound of the straight pipe
 
I just want to make sure I understand something... Is it the Getrag that doesn't allow the truck to go over 70 mph? I wouldn't mind a transmission with more than 3 gears. ;)
 
KMSCD, Have the GETRAG and have no problem with 3. 54 axle ratios. Dont know about the 4. 10 axle. Get the best fuel mileage at 65-68MPH in 5th gear. Check out TDR forums on the NV4500 and GETRAG transmissions and swaps in 1st Gen trucks. Lots to learn. GregH.
 
I have the Dana 71 with the 3. 08 gears. I'm willing to put in a new transmission so I don't wind up with a cramped foot after driving faster than 60 mph and being able to go faster than 70!
 
Im certainly not an expert. but you can calculate your speed using engine RPM, Gear ratio, Axle ratio and tire diameter. If you are considering a swap you also require a clutch kit. There are good clutches and there is junk. One thing came to me that is not related but very important. If you have already done this dont mind me- Have you adjusted your valves? Ist gen trucks require valve lash adjustment every 20,000 miles. Sounds like you have your work cut out for yourself. Read the forums. There are experiences recounted that may help you decide what is best for your situation. GregH.
 
Before I have any performance mods done, I'm going to take it to shop and have the valves adjusted and the engine checked over for soundness and anything done that I cannot do myself.
 
KMSCD said:
Before I have any performance mods done, I'm going to take it to shop and have the valves adjusted and the engine checked over for soundness and anything done that I cannot do myself.

KMSCD, When you have your valves adjusted watch the process, take notes, it is not hard to do this. Just time consuming if you dont do it every day. Can you get a Cummins engine book? If not I will be glad to scan my book on the appropriate pages and include them in an e-mail via TDR. ( Info is for a 91. 5 if you can use it. ) Make sure you mark a witness mark on the harmonic balancer and one on the block. The mechanic who helped me used a bolt head as the immoveable mark. This was done with metal marking ink and with the timing pin engaged. You will need a Barring tool; a socket affair that has a gear end on it instead of a 6 point or 12 point end and a square drive access. This is inserted in an access hole below the turbo into the plate on the rear of the engine (passenger side) If your rig is the same as the 91. 5 model. It engages the flywheel and allows you to manually turn the engine. A couple or three long extensions and a swivel extension and a wratchet and you can locate #1 Top Dead Center from the front of the truck looking over the radiator=). A couple of metric wrenches, a feeler gauge and gasket set and Appropriate procedure. Disconnect the Electrical. Safety precaution. Another project=). GH
 
GHarman said:
Another project=). GH



Whew! I have an '89 service manual but not an engine manual. What about Helm Inc? I've heard those are good and since I'm keeping the truck, I'm willing to spend the money. I still can't find my dang owner's manual (love it when the husband moves my stuff!).
 
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