Single traction bar is working GREAT !!!

[bigkavr]

OK, this is the second time I've written this today, the computer ate the first attempt.
I loved Steve S. design on the traction bars and started to make a set for myself.
Early on in the measuring stage, it became apperent that a box I have mounted on the outboard right frame rail would be in the way for the bars. (this box is the power box for my lower strobe lights and can't be readly moved) So, I did what any lazy american would do, I just built one bar...
... . Now that you all have gotten back up off the floor from laughing so hard, here's what I did.

The bar itself is 1. 09" ID rollbar material
with a smaller piece inside for a double wall effect. aprox. 30" long. 3/4" HEIM joints are used at each end.
The rear bracket is just like what Steve has on his axle tubes, but mine is welded to the top of the banjo housing. Now don't get all upset, the center section is malable steel (cast steel) NOT cast iron. Welding is straight forward with normal prep.
The front bracket/stiffener is a piece of 1/4" inch frame rail cut to a L. (4" on the face and 2. 5" on the bottom) and aprox. 15" long. To this stiffener I welded two more brackets just like the ones on the housing. I then bolted this assembly to the crossmember in front of the rear axle.
The bar is aprox. 8" above and 1. 5" to the left of the driveshaft.

Results. After two weeks of flogging (and two tank fulls of fuel to prove it), I can find no adverse effects to the axle articulation or ride quality.
This posting, is in no way intended to slam Steve S. or anybody else who is using two traction bars, it's just my own way of doing something, and it appears that for once, it works !!!
Steve S. was right on about no wheel hop or axle wrap. YEEEEEE, HAAAAAA !!!!!!!!!!

My material costs were under $35.
My fabrication and mounting time was about 5 hours.
My play time is endless !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have taken the vehicle off road (slowly) to check for binding and or breaking, and
so far, everything is looking great.
I will admit that if I'd lift the vehicle or do serious offroading, I'd reevaluate the system. But for my kind of driving, it's working GREAT !!
I'm sure I'll get hammered on this one, so commence with the hammering..... : ),



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97 2500, extcab, 4x4. BFG 285/85/16 AT, "warmed over" pump, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, BD gov. spring seats only, 370 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil & transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)

 

[Scooby]

No hammering here... . just want pictures! #ad

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

How about some pictures? How did you calculate the necessary angle and length of the bar? One thing I was wondering about is that you are applying the load from the bar to the center section instead of the axle tubes so your loads are being applied to the housing (and primarily the connection between the center section and the axle tubes) using the single bar, whereas with two bars the load of the bars only goes into the axle tubes themselves because both the springs and the bars are attached to the tubes. I don't know if that's a problem or not though.

Also, what kind of heim joints did you use? The heim joints we're using are 3/4" moly heims that cost nearly $30 each wholesale. I nearly had to pick myself up off the floor when I read your cost figure, my kits will be way more expensive than that - I wanted everything to be top grade components and that costs. BTW, no slam taken!

-Steve


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 03-12-2001). ]

 

[DennyDay]

This sounds much like the system used on the '89 Range Rover, they used a yoke and caught both frame rails rather than the cross member I'd like to see a picture. The Rover handling was great on or off road, and this may have been the reason

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Denny
'99 2500 4X4 White short Q cab to much added to put here

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

While researching possible upgrades for the ladder bar kits I'm putting together (stainless steel heim joints - so far $60 a pop - OUCH, a lot of money just for looks) I came across this guys website that did a setup just like yours - http://www2. whidbey.com/locktup/tracbar.htm

-Steve

 

[bigkavr]

Steve, your correct on the Heim joints being expensive. I got lucky and went to a racers swap meet and found a race car fabrication shop that was selling it's odds and ends. Lo and behold, 3/4" Heim joints aren't used very often and I found 4 steel ones (new)
2L and 2R for half price. $12. 50 each.
Since I only used two of them, so the price is $25. 00 for one bar. The tubing is roll bar material and again, I have $20. 00 in two 10' pieces but since I only used aprox. 30" of it the price for one bar is about $4. 00.
So now we're up to $29. 00. The rest of the cost is grade 5 bolts and a can of spray paint. (The shop I use "donated" the flat stock used for the brackets but if I'd put a cost on it, I say about $5. 00 worth. )
Whoops, I'm over $35. 00 by a few. Sorry...

As to the torque forces at the connection between the center section and the axle tubes, I believe this force is the same, reguardless of where you try to stop it. i. e.
at the axle tube or at the center section.
I do agree that one bar has to take all the force vs two bars splitting up the forces.
But the forces at the connection of the axle tube/center section remain the same.

I'll try to get some pictures in a day or so.
I still think Steve's design is better for any and all driving conditions, but for the kind of driving/abuse I'm doing, (i. e. drag racing and SLOW off road) this design is doing GREAT... ...


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97 2500, extcab, 4x4. BFG 285/85/16 AT, "warmed over" pump, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, BD gov. spring seats only, 370 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil & transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)

 

[Archive]

Great to be in America #ad
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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab, 4Wheel Disc, 4. 10 Limited Slip, Fog Lights, Muffler removed, Silence Ring Gone,K&N RE-0880. THIS IS NOT A HOBBY.
THIS IS AN ADDICTION,OO OH YAA!!!

 

[Extreme1]

As far as the axle tube/center section bar attachment discussion goes:
The torque reaction (spring wrap or axle wrap) is caused by the pinion gear trying to climb the ring gear. With this in mind, the center section is actually a better place to control the torque reaction.
The weld joint between the tubes and the center section is quite strong. I believe the tubes are pressed in to start with. In any case, the torque load applied can only be limited by tire traction. The bending forces are much higher.

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'94 3500 4x4, 209,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: X-Mount Mirrors, 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"