Smarty REVO Details

[JBlakeman]

All,



Just finally upgraded my Smarty SO6A from my old software (4. 05D) to the newest (4. 19A R. 23S) which has the "REVO Options" along with the normal 10 levels. I've ran on SW#3 with the old software without issue on my stock trans... .



I drove the truck today at SW#5 with options TQM:1, T: Default, RP: Stock. Truck drove smooth with lots of low power delivery and it shifted sooner into every gear including converter lock at 47 MPH... . it was around 54 MPH before on the SW#3 old version.



Now that we can "customize" the Torque (TQM), Timing (T), and Rail Pressure (RP), whats the best "options" to go with and when do these options change with the levels (if kept to default)? I'm on stock (replacement) injectors, turbo, and trans but wonder how much "play" can be done to the TQM number without causing damage or can I just go back to default TQM and stay at SW#5 without issue?



Advice please?



Thanks,



Jon

 

[JBlakeman]

Ok, since nobody knows what options to set, does anyone know of a TDR member that sells the Smarty product that could offer input?

 

[Prairie Dog]

I guess its a bit new for us but I'm curious to see how it all works.

 

[AEdelheit]

Uhhh, the earlier shifting and lockup seem odd to me, I thought on the earlier 48RE the computer only controls lockup not gear changes and even then I dont think the smarty has any control over lockup sooo huh, ya weird. I run RP: 2 TQM 2 Timing 2 and sw5

 

[AMcCormick]

I had been running sw 3 tq2 tm3 rp3. Tried sw0 for a unloaded freeway drive. That did not do what I was hoping for. Came back loaded running sw1 tq0 tm3 rp0. We will see how that goes. Truck drives pretty well. She has been pretty steady in the 17-19mpg regardless of sw and settings. Sw5 with the pod at 75% worked pretty well.

 

[AH64ID]

You could get away with the TQ on 2, but I wouldn't try 3 or 4 with a stock trans.

SW5 is about the most I would run around town on a stock trans, if your right foot is gentile. SW3 for towing, if you tow.

Timing is good at default, and probably pretty similar to your old setup. Rail Pressure is all personal preference, I personally don't like adding any and would leave it stock. If you want to add a little pressure then RP2 is the highest I would go.


EDIT: I just saw the Rokktech in your sig, you may consider taking a little Smarty timing out if your still using the Rokktech, like Timing 3.

 

[LRutigliano]

I run SW3 (TQ2, TM3 and RP1) and it runs very strong with very little smoke.



I tow our 11k 5er with this setting. Lots of low end and mid range power for towing.



Max EGT is approx 1300F and max boost is approx 30 psi (sensor is in intake horn).



Hope this helps,

Louis

 

[SDrake]

Location of boost sensor fitting

..... Max EGT is approx 1300F and max boost is approx 30 psi (sensor is in intake horn).



Hope this helps,

Louis

Is there a significant difference or reason for placing sensor in the intake horn. I just used ond of the bolts in the intake manifold as my sensor location. My readings are a bit lower that it seems they should be and have been angling to figure out why. I get max of about 23psi stock.

 

[LRutigliano]

Is there a significant difference or reason for placing sensor in the intake horn. I just used ond of the bolts in the intake manifold as my sensor location. My readings are a bit lower that it seems they should be and have been angling to figure out why. I get max of about 23psi stock.

My CFM+ intake horn has 1/8NPT ports, so that is why I have installed it in the intake horn.



On Stock and SW1, my max boost was approx 26psi. On SW3, max boost is approx 30-31 psi.



Remember, my STOCK was with aftermarket injectors which supply more fuel and therefore, more boost. I didn't have gauges when my truck had stock injectors...

 

[AH64ID]

Is there a significant difference or reason for placing sensor in the intake horn. I just used ond of the bolts in the intake manifold as my sensor location. My readings are a bit lower that it seems they should be and have been angling to figure out why. I get max of about 23psi stock.

The intake horn will give you a higher reading at peak boost levels than the manifold. It's part of the design. I saw about a 2 psi difference from horn to manifold.



If you only seeing 23 I would guess you do not have an adjustable boost elbow, with one you can allow your peak boost to increase.

 

[SDrake]

The intake horn will give you a higher reading at peak boost levels than the manifold. It's part of the design. I saw about a 2 psi difference from horn to manifold.



If you only seeing 23 I would guess you do not have an adjustable boost elbow, with one you can allow your peak boost to increase.

I have been putting off adjustable boost elbo until I understand what it does. I knew on my 94 but the circuit is different on the 03.



Another reason I have not is that I never see any smoke so I assume I do not need more boost as I am now.



When I get a smarty Jr the more fuel scenario will prompt perhaps a adjust boost elbo. that is the way I think right now. Don't know if I know what i am thinking or not

 

[AH64ID]

It will work the same as your 94, and the Smarty should keep you from getting a code until ~44psi.

Unless you are overfueled you won't get any on boost smoke, but the boost will help you run cooler. Until you have more fuel you won't need more air, but it's cheap and easy to install.

 

[SDrake]

It will work the same as your 94, and the Smarty should keep you from getting a code until ~44psi.



Unless you are overfueled you won't get any on boost smoke, but the boost will help you run cooler. Until you have more fuel you won't need more air, but it's cheap and easy to install.

Thanks to all. Cheap is good. Gives me a chance to tinker a bit and learn before I get involved with the upgrades.



My cheap upgrades to the 94 (after transmission upgrade) got me more power than my current 03 HO. I was quite happy with the way the 94 was towing but was really surprised that it was out pulling the HO. Gotta fix that somewhere down the road. Currently my son with my old 94, which is his now, is enjoying beating me on the hills and roll-ons. He is making 30 psi in 60 mph pedal to the metal towing uphill situations with EGT hovering at the max.



My egts rarely go over 1000. Need more fuel.

 

[cerberusiam]

I'm on stock (replacement) injectors, turbo, and trans but wonder how much "play" can be done to the TQM number without causing damage or can I just go back to default TQM and stay at SW#5 without issue?

SW5 is the death knell for a stock trans. It will slip the the TC clutch and direct clutches and front band easily. Normal driving will eventually eat the direct clutches. A lot of slower speeds will kill the front band.



TQM 2 and 3 are not good on a stock trans either.



TQM1 and SW3 while being careful with your right foot is about all it will take safely.

 

[JBlakeman]

Cerberusiam,



Thanks, that's what I was looking for... .



I wasn't sure if i wasn't "getting away with it" with running on SW#5 since it seemed to allow the trans to shift earlier which I thought would be a benefit than it shifting later on the earlier SW#3 level I've been running for so long... .



Also I thought now that we can adjust "options" we could theoretically get away with higher power output while controlling the damage / stress to the internals.



I'm assuming then the Torque Management adjusts to higher amounts on its own if kept to "default" under the options (like the Rail Pressure and Timing of course... ).

 

[cerberusiam]

IIRC default on the TQM is 2. That seems to be the best compromise.



It is likely shifting sooner because you are using less throttle to achieve the same speed and acceleration. That means less TV pressure and the gov pressure ramp will cause a faster shift.



The shift algorithms are keyed off of wheel speed versus throttle position. The downside here is with a stock trans is less throttle means less apply pressure on the shift points. Less apply pressure and more power mean more slippage which is what gets the clutch packs and bands sooner.



I don't drive like an old man nor do I thrash my truck, just use and drive it like it is meant to. Took about 30k of SW3-5 and TQM 3 to burn up the direct clutches. Fixed that problem with a shift kit and rebuild. A lot of my driving now is 35-55 mph with lots of stops. Killed the front band with the shift-shift-shift and too much power. Grrrrr!!! always something. #@$%!



The stock TC clutch is not very good. On SW5 I could slip it on demand, roll hard into the throttle at 65 mph and it would rattle the truck.



Some people can and have gotten away with a lot of miles on SW3 and SW5. I wasn't that lucky and pretty sure they weren't driving it normal.

 

[JBlakeman]

Makes sense... going back to SW3 in the morning while keeping the "options" at TQ: 1, TM: Default, RP: Stock. Seems I'll see how it shifts at these settings then maybe go up to TQ: 2 to see how it shifts.

I know eventually I'm going to have to rebuild the trans. I have 181k on it now and just fluid changes / filter for the most part. I've only done one band adjustment. Run Royal Purple and a double deep pan which has kept it cool for the most part. Only slippage I've noticed is the first converter lockup on extremely cold days.....