Smokin'

[jdurham]

I was driving to work in the rain and the dash started smokin', and I got that burning plastic smell again Well, it's the 4th (or is it 5th???) headlight switch I've relaced in about 3 years. I bought the switch and wiring harness (about $60 at Dodge) and spliced it in. I remember someone put a painless wiring relay kit and brite box for the high beams in, and I think it's time I do that. Anyone know what painless kit I should use? I bought led marker lights as well to try and take some of the load off of the system.



I'd sure like this to be the LAST headlight switch I buy. Any ideas?



Thanks,



Jim

 

[Tim1]

light option

Hey Jim, I'll go thru how I solved this problem. Relays are the key. I'll give a parts list. I use a relay at my trailer plug at the rear of the truck to run the running lights on my trailers. I used a piece of plexiglass 1\4" next to the battery for the mount. 8x10inches. I unhooked the plugs at the headlights and left there for emergency sake. I get the signal for the low and hi beam from the drivers side headlite plug. Relay Bosh 0332019150e151 rated 30amps pigtail number 3334485008 If you have a napa shop handy Relay 192d and 194 rated 40 amp Pigtail 9185 Heavy duty light plug Napa LS6235 I used 13foot of 14ga. 3 conductor so cord for the power cords and 30inches of 16 ga. 2 conductor for the signal wires. Cable to the passenger side 100inches and driver cable 44 inches. The cables are measured of the plexiglass to the load. Heres the code on the relays. 30=red-12volts hot 85=black-signal (hi-lo) 86=Green ground 87=white-load 87a=yellow-load. This works great and you can always unplug and plug in the headlites if needed. I carry a spare relay, but haven't needed it yet. Hope I haven't confused you to much, feel free to e-mail me! Tim

 

[Wayno]

I put ALL my running and clearance lights including my cab lights on a separate switch and I have never lost the factory light switch . It was a bit a work and some re-wiring to do . I have lots of clearance lights on my running boards and if I hadn't done what I did I wouldn't be able to keep a light switch in it .

 

[jdurham]

Thanks guys. What I have in mind (and with a mind like mine, I could be WAY off!) is to use a hard mounted pre-wired relay block that I can mount underhood, then run my marker lights seperate, especially if I add lights like wayno, and to run a seperate switch for the trailer lights. If the headlights are also a weak point that contribute to burning up the switch, I'd like to run them through relays like Tim1, and wire them like the brite box does, with both the high and low beams working with the dimmer switch on bright. Am I headed in the right direction?



Thanks,



Jim

 

[sparks57]

I agree... relays are the way to go. I have 26 running lights, and they are all on a relay. I have never lost a switch.



People say my truck looks like a rolling christmas tree.



I should post a nightime shot of my truck. Oo.