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Off Roading SNOW! Driving, theory, tires, weight. Lets break this down a bit

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"And you can find out how much comes "off" your front axels"



This is correct, since you are overhanging the rear axle the weight acts to unload the front axle, but you already have more than enough up front with the Cummins.
 
I'll throw one out there... and thats practice. This means going out and getting comfortable in the (truck), in a safe environment, becoming aware of (or remembering)how it handles.

Once you have improved your bias, see how the truck reacts on ice, loose & packed snow, and mix.

See how it reacts to running from wet to dry vice versa as well as one side on dry at a time, and to what degree pedal inputs have.

This can tell you alot, as well as build some confidence.

Some vehicles react worse than others when transitioning from dry to slick. This is where you have to really be alert.

This would also include shifting from 2wd to 4wd while making the transition-then back to 2.

The clutch pedal can also help settle down an uneasy dry/wet transition.

Tire opinions... you will get many. My success was always with a narrower, semi aggressive tread. Firestone Steeltracks worked very well for me, even when 1/2 worn. BFG AT's worked well when new... seemed to lose performance quickly.

Last but not least, while weighted down, check how your brakes react. Your practice at different speeds will help you gauge your new stopping distances and lockup tendancies. Always remember that the brakes could (will) be wet, so always anticipate the possibility.

As you find the vehicles & your nuances, you will find that your confidence, your skills and your speeds will increase.

Me? 30+ years, 10 as a 6 vehicle Commercial Contractor. (Pop was a real pro too)
 
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I DO NOT want any one chimming in to simple state "slow down you moron, it's snow! be careful! blah blah blah blah. "



This is for the driver who like to drive aggressivly in the snow on road and off.

--



I dont care if you wanna hear it or not!!! You dont need to drive so darn aggressivley during bad road conditions. I'm on the road too,, and we all slide at the same speed.



The only difference between 2wd and 4wd is the length of the retrieval tow chain.
 
AND VERY IMPORTANT WATCH OUT FOR THE OTHER PPLE those who can't give their self enough time and space between each other, whom drive to fast. On the mountain roads here, if i get even in eye sight of another vehicle in front of me if im 1/2 mile behind them at the time thats where i stay, if its 300ft or whatever the distance i get no closer as that gives me time to react and not panic if they slide or wreck in front of me, some little things to think about also.
 
ohhh geeez. . simple instructions can't be followed. .



The idea of this thread was just to learn any tricks and tips on how to aggressivly drive this truck in the snow (or dirt). Why the heck would I put my truck in a situation to hit some thing? it's a $40,000 investment. Not a $1000 junker, ford or chevy. :)



Prove to me that learning offensive driving, and learning how it's related to the truck you drive does not help in any way what so ever to being a good defensive driver. Go a head. try. please.



Yes, defensive driving. Safe driving. go slow. yada yada yada. . if you go any slower, might as well not leave the house, take a bus maybe.



If I never attempt to stop fast, turn a corner on the snow, learn to control a fish tail. figure out the quirks in the ABS (I won't disable it, I like it to a point). figure out how to accelerate as fast as possible. I will be screwed when I need to. and you can't reallt do this in a parking lot. well, most parking lots.



I'll be trying out sand bags and experimenting with tirepressures this winter for sure.



Rant over. :)



One other thing. 4x4 and sharp corners. the front end is heavy, even if you have 2 inches of packed snow and turn the front will bind a little if your not slipping the tires on purposes. So naturally once your on a roll, you wanna pop back into 2wd. it's rather annoying to mollest the throttle to get that T-case to pop. Anyone ever place in heavier springs in the T-case to aid it dropping back to 2wd faster?



Naturally, on a load, it won't disenguage until the load is released.



One last thing. I get a ton of wheel hop in 2wd in deep snow. ideas?
 
Let out of the throttle if you can..... Get traction bars. That should take care of your wheel hop.



In my 1ton I try to run about 600lbs in the bed. Never had a problem. I've gone through snow as deep as 4. 5 feet on my parents lawn, with no problem. Take that weight out and the rear end would have been spinning.



Josh
 
If you want to go from 2WD to 4WD and back again quick and easy, get Bobs 2wheel low kit. I think it only works with up through 2002 with the CAD, but it works great. You can leave the transfer case in 4WD high or low and just flip the little switch/valve and bingo, you are in or out of 4WD. You guys witht the newer trucks have to come up with something else.
 
i guess from now on i will keep my thoughts and what i actually know that will work to myself, i thought the purpose of the thread was for ideas and general information from other members who have driven many miles in winter conditions.

And as for going slow, its better to arrive at your destination in one piece than in several
 
Sounds like the attitude of the guy that passed me on packed snow and then spun out right in front of me, sending him off in the ditch and me having to do an emergency slow down where I almost wrecked my truck. Just think, all because he wouldn't slow down, just had to drive aggressive.



I am a firm believer in driving past your limits to find out where they are, if you can find a safe place to do it. Please don't drive like a maniac on public streets.



Matt
 
Get your tires siped and pin up studs on the outside edges. You will be amazed ;) If you want to drive aggresively, remember who gets the bills for any mistakes in your judgment ;)
 
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WyattEarp



It was and is with your advice right on target. By the way don't let my Ariz. location fool anyone have driven in all kinds of weather numerious times.
 
Yeah Wyatt, I didnt think he meant that for you. I think he was addressing the "Dont need to drive so darn aggressivly" comment.

I'd spend all year getting equipment ready, paying incredible Insurance fees, have a huge investment in equipment, make committments to have other peoples livelihoods opened up, doctors offices, hospitals, food stores & airports up & running... . in a blizzard... and theres someone saying... you dont need to drive so darn fast in the snow.

When we were out there... frankly, they shouldnt have been. They should have the sense to stay put.
 
Midlife i may have misread what was posted, if so then i apologize for my post.

To be honest with you pple are curious creatures, thats like after any disaster they just have to get out and see what all happened instead of staying put at home and out of the way of those whom have to be out, it amazes me to no end.
 
JoshPeters said:
Let out of the throttle if you can..... Get traction bars. That should take care of your wheel hop.



In my 1ton I try to run about 600lbs in the bed. Never had a problem. I've gone through snow as deep as 4. 5 feet on my parents lawn, with no problem. Take that weight out and the rear end would have been spinning.



Josh



Well, I get the hop at low low speed. like 2mph. Trying to crawl as slow as possible in 2wd out of deep snow and she just hops like crazy... highwheel speed seems to fix the hop, but I don't have traction.
 
Bob Cochran said:
WyattEarp



It was and is with your advice right on target. By the way don't let my Ariz. location fool anyone have driven in all kinds of weather numerious times.



I remember when I was a small booger. it was like 90+ in phoenix, and a trip up to flag staff yeilded 30's. it was snowing, but not sticking at one point... .
 
WyattEarp said:
well i thought i was, and thought i was helping out to... thanks BOB... you mean Arizona gets snow. ;)

Yes in the White Mountains in Eastern Arizona but none to a little this year very dry. Though last Tuesday it rained a little and was cold enough to cause black ice. Several accidents in the area and fortunately not major injuries. AHH I feel a group hug coming in this thread.
 
Jason,



Here is a neat product for the rear bed weight and it stays put when stapped down. .



http://www.shurtrax.com/



When you noticed the lighter SUV going faster, he has "C" tires, better weight dist. , and larger contact patch. Also your truck is more than twice the weight of the SUV.



Getting closer to 50/50 and softer PSI will go a long way to getting good controll.



Also the best way to have controll in snow is to drive like you have a egg under your throttle. You can go fast and agressive ... BUT... you need more room to slow down, do NOT drive on cruise controll, brake slowly and evenly... If you have an E-Brake, use that more first.



If you do start to slide, get off the brake or throttle so the tires roll on their own and steer to get straight, then slowly accelerate or brake slowly again.



Snow and ICE is snow and Ice... . they only allow a certain type of driving with certain equipment..... As an interstate truck driver who goes to the northwest weekly with double trailer sets which has 3 pivots, I have learned how to "Feel" when the tires slide with 80K pounds on them... .
 
That is a pretty neat product, but only good if you have a heated garage. Once its frozen you can't empty it. Here in SE PA when it snows the roads are only a mess for a day or 2, then its dry again. NO need to haul around 400 lbs of weight when its dry.



I use 8 - 50lb bags of coal @ $6. 00 each. Plus I can use the coal to heat the house if needed :) (it burns even if its wet)



EricBu12 said:
Jason,



Here is a neat product for the rear bed weight and it stays put when stapped down. .



http://www.shurtrax.com/
 
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