Snow Plows - Need Advice

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Well the past few weeks reminded me that is does actually still snow in Rhode Island, as a result I'm plow shopping and would like some input from anyone here with experience.
I went looking at Meyer, Fisher, Diamond, and Boss plows all are similar and all run about $3100 to $3500 installed. I plan on using it for my driveway and a few others. Any opinions on if the steel or plastic plows are better. Also what type of hydraulic control is better ie: joystick or keypad type? Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Kevin

 

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Kevin,the Boss V plows are a good way to go if you can wait till next year. The current ones don't have a trip mechanism if you hit an obstruction,but they are working on that now. Meyers and Western are also both good. Or you can go the route my neighbor went and get a Brand X from Costco for $600,if you're not using it much it will get you thru.
Joystick is the way to go.

 

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The guys at work are breaking the joy sticks all the time, but we havent had to replace any key pads yet. Both our Meyers & Western's are good units but if your local dealer dosen't stock parts it could end up costing you a bunch if you miss a snow storm or two. The Boss plows are nice for special uses but they have more moving parts and seem to be tougher on the trucks.

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99' 2500 SLT, Quadcab, Long Bed, 4x4, White/Driftwood, Agate Leather, 4WAL, Auto, 241HD, 3. 54 Limited Slip, Rancho 9000's, Air Lift Super Duty's, Hallmark Cachara LTD 9. 5ft Popup Camper, Boston Whaler Outrage 17'

 

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I have a 8. 5 western on my truck, great plow, nice setup for removing and reinstalling (plow, lights and pump all come off at once) it take me working alone 10 min to put the plow on and 5 min to remove. The hand held controll is the best I have ever used. In 2 years of heavy use the only problem I had is a few loose bolts on the cutting edge (don't think they were ever fully tightened). The only other problem may be the front of the plow frame that stays on the truck hangs a little low, I hit it once in a while at job sites or a tall curb. I would also recomend the poly plow, I didn't have the option at 8. 5 feet but you can get it up to 8 feet in western.

Good luck
Ian

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99 3500 SLT Quad cab, Auto, 8. 5' Western Plow, stainless running boards, stock for now, Work truck with ladder rack and boxes

 

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OK my opinion,
At work we run 11 plow trucks and all have BOSS plows on them. The reason we went with boss is the fact that our local BOSS dealer is open 24 hours a day during the winter months. IMO service is the number one factor when buy a plow as I think Western, Fisher, and Boss are all good quality. I cannot comment on the quality of Curtis or a couple of the other newer plows on the market.

As far as poly or steel, I think it is a matter of personal choice. The poly doesn't rust. The clear Lexan blades are not very popular around here so I cannot comment on those.

V or straight. Of our 11 trucks the four newest ones have straight blades on them. We have gone away from the v blade. They seems to hold up ok (we have had a number of problems with the V, pumps, flaps, and cutting edges), but IMO they don't plow snow any better or faster than a straight blade. I will admit that the V came in handy a few times, but the straight blades do a nicer job in our application.

Ryan

 

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Kevin, this is my third season with my Boss
7. 5 ft. straight poly blade. The red poly blade doesn't rust and snow doesn't stick to it. The joystick controls work well and the SmartHitch is a well engineered system. The setup was light enough not to require the installation of Timbrens. I use it to plow the parking lot behind my Pharmacy, and to keep the road open to the cottage. I apply aerosol grease liberally to everything to prevent rust and road-salt induced corrosion. My only problem do date is with the pump solenoid seizing. Light tapping remedies the problem temporarily. I purchased a replacement for $20. I find the boss headlights brighter for driving than my truck's lenses, even with PIAA bulbs installed.

 

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I quit plowing a couple of years ago after doing it for 25 years. Owned both Meyers and Western. Both were good and could break if abused, but I really liked the Meyers much better. The Meyers would have been perfect for me if they would have had a shock absorber for their trip spring rebound. There were good and bad points about each one. I found inexpensive parts which could be used on the Meyers readily avialable from many sources.

Have looked at Fisher's and wasn't impressed - didn't like the trip mechanism. Had a friend who used Boss's and really swore by them - claimed the "V" was much more efficient for his type of plowing jobs.

Don't put a plow on a nice truck. I'd much rather pay someone $20 to do my driveway from now on, before I ruin another truck by doing my own plowing.

 

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I've had 2 Meyers plows, one steel, the other,poly. I would recommend the poly as it doesn't rust. As far as controls, I would much rather have the joystick,as I found it easier to operate than the keypad. With the pad, my fingers were always searching for the positions, where I found it much easier , while moving, to operate the joystick. My last plow was on my 97 Dodge, and I lost all the ground clearance. Going over shallow drainage ditches would cause me to bottom out. No plow on this truck, I now use a backblade on a tractor.

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2001 ordered 12/20/99. Arrived 2/9/00 2500 RC, SLT,4X4,ETH,6-speed,4:10 anti-spin,Camper special,cab clearance lights,GPD trailer tow mirrors,sliding rear window,Snow Plow prep, power seat,Line-X'd OTR bed and quarter panels,DeeZee running boards,INTENSE Blue/ agate.

 

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I've had Fisher and will only run Fisher. Parts are always readily available and I've never had any problems. I've seen other plow's run around here but nothing is as common as a Fisher. All the contractors and landscapers won't use anything else. There also a northeastern company based in Maine. Have a new 8' Minute Mount plow on and my last plow lasted 12 years then sold the truck to a landscaper. A good place that is not to far from you is WH Rose in Windham Ct. Thats where I get my service done.

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Kevin MacGranor
2001. 5 D2500 QC SLT 4X4,Auto 295/75r16 BFG AT's, Century Cap, Bedrug.

 

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Kevin. . I have a Meyer mounted on a FJ40 and it does just fine. . I plow about a 1 mile drive way on a steep hill. .
May I suggest that you buy the plow at a dealer nearest you that has a good price as most of the plows will do a good job for what your showing the need to be. . service and parts are more important after the fact. . just make sure you get one of the top three brands
Gary

 

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I'm with Bart on this one, I'd give some serious thought to this before dropping the cash.

I haven't met anyone who didn't have a horror story or two about a blade. Anything as minor as prematurely worn ball joints and tires... all the way up to driveshafts looking like candy canes and cracked frames. I also "hear" it is very easy to damage our trucks because the mighty Cummins doesn't know when to quit.
It makes sense when you consider the amount of weight up front.

For the same or less money, and a lot less hassle in the future. . you can buy a self propelled snowblower that will do circles around a blade in deep snow. Not to mention that truck blades don't work very well on sidewalks. #ad


Naturally, OMO.

 

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Or you could pick up a used Ford NAA tractor with back blade for less than $3000.

 

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I have owned one myeres plow and it was the hardest plow I have ever seen to hook up I dreaded having to take it off or put it on. also the trip mechanisem was not as good as a fisher it would fold over and sometimes i would have to raise the blade to get it to flip back. I have run fisher plows for years and loved them. plus it helps when they are made just a few miles away.

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blue 94 4x4 2500 pump turned up 30%+ gov. set to 3600rpm,tfod kit,215 inj 4inch cat back silencer removed performance delivery valves mystery switch.

 

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illflem,

I thought only the Boss straight blades were changing to the trip edge?? You hear something different?? I want a trip edge on the V before I will buy it.

Dave

 

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Dave,you very well could be right,but the context that heard it in seemed like they were talking about all the Boss blades.

 

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One thing about the poly, I'm not sure there
is anyway to fix a crack short of replacement. You never know what trash is hiding under that powder! I do know how to
weld my steel blade, and that is why I didn't
buy the poly. I'm sure the poly will roll
snow better than steel that has ice clinging
to it!

 

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Trick I learned years ago is to coat the metal blade heavily with car wax,keeps the snow from sticking and will last most of the season. I use the cheapest Johnstons paste wax and just glob it on,no buffing,works great.