Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) so lets talk 12v

[Mhannink]

i hear yall on the smoke control. i have an issue with wanting to do it too often. anyways hammer. it seems to me with the little i know about engines is you wouldnt produce so much less torgue its move where it is. right? i mean if you have the fuel and air needed for a given level of power. it seems to me the afc spring would just be moving it one way or another. again from my limited experince when i had my 95 the power felt about the same with the spring tight or looser it just seemed to move where it was. loose i could spin the tires more easily then when it was tighter. i dont know its just my 2 cents and thats the whole reason for this post to talk about all these things(we can talk about more then the afc just bring it up) and talk about whats going on. potential problems things to look for maybe a procedure or 2 on how to do it. anything goes here

 

[CTD12V]

I just found this thread--hate to see it peter out. Anybody got more to say?



What was this that was mentioned about drilling out the fitting to the AFC housing? Does that simply allow the boost signal to come in earlier, allowing more fueling sooner (kind of like loosening the star wheel)? Does this also increase smoke?



CTD12V

 

[TurboFan]

I'll keep it going

I'm looking for optimum set up and this looks like a good thread.



I largely drive empty, but tow a 14,000 lb trailer locally from time to time.

On TDR there is a wealth of info on specific mods. I would like to hear about a set of mods that would help me achieve two, okay three possibly conflicting goals.

Again I would like to hear about a successful "package" (not one thing), even if it isn't specific to my goals, for conversation's sake.



I would love my truck to (crap I have to prioritize now):



Have tons of low end torque

Not smoke

Get good MPG (when my foot is out of it)



Nothing is off limits. even Cam, turbo, etc.



I have guages and a #10 plate. AFC is adjusted okay. But let's assume that all the other basics are done (valves adjusted, timing checked, kdp done).



Reasonable question?



sig line should have the pertinent info



Thanks,



Greg

 

[TurboFan]

Amazing! I killed it!

Just call me the thread-killer.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I would love my truck to (crap I have to prioritize now):



Have tons of low end torque

Not smoke

Get good MPG (when my foot is out of it)



Nothing is off limits. even Cam, turbo, etc.



I have guages and a #10 plate. AFC is adjusted okay. But let's assume that all the other basics are done (valves adjusted, timing checked, kdp done).



Reasonable question?



sig line should have the pertinent info



Thanks,



Greg

if you want tons of low end torque (which I wouldn't recomend going crazy with... torque is what breaks parts) you need fuel. and if you don't want smoke, you need air.



port the cylinder head, put a cam in it. those are the two best things you can do to limit smoke on the bottom end.

 

[WPeschel]

The AFC or aneroid is a wonderful tool if you know how it works and use it to your advantage, it's really nothing more than a communication tool for the pump, when do you want it to fuel and how much.



People that remove the AFC arm or take a plate out of the pump do so because of lack of patients and or knowledge, if this was such a good idea guys like Joe D. and myself would be or would have done it.



The AFC spring (stock 215) is what I call a 40lb spring; a 180 pump spring is what I call a 20lb spring. There are times when a 20lb spring will work better and time when a 40lb will work better and both can be increased or decreased with the star wheel that do nothing more than add or subtract tension.



The first tool to have is a hand held air pressure regulator, without it everything is just a guess and it does nothing more than simulate boost.



Jim

Jim can you or someone else elaborate on this??? I would like to know how to properly adjust the Afc... Thanks

 

[Hammer]

Amazing! I killed it!

Just call me the thread-killer.

Nope...

You didn't kill it at all,just some of us are out doing other things.



Now...

As Forrest has already said,Torque can be your friend or it can break parts. The difference is application and most times that is directly related to your right foot,especially when towing. To get what your desiring(smoke limitation-good fuel mileage-power to tow)then your going to have to do alot of research and find a pump man your comfortable with. Torque application and smoke management will come,again as Forrest said,with camshaft and head work. The camshaft will allow the charger to spool up quicker and the port work will help make it efficient,both in airflow and egt reduction. Airflow efficiency will help you with one of your biggest concerns giving you the ability to make power comfortably with minimal egt concerns.



Turbo...

To do what you want you will need to find one that has the ability to light quick enough to limit lag-time and yet still be big enough to provide enough air to keep her cool. For a guy who does daily drive I still say a HX40/16 with a pinned compressor wheel and cover is one of the most under rated turbos out there. Long ago guys had problems with the HX40 blowing off front covers and loosing the compressor wheels due to over speeding them. IF you have a good shop build one and pin both the wheel and housing you will limit the chance of breakage. keep this charger under 40lbs of boost and it will provide years of service for you. Others which would fit the bill and be cost effective,most any smaller S300 frame charger and if you prefer the higher end deals,Turbonetics and Garrett both have great roller-ball chargers that will work fine. best thing to tell you is set a budget and then decide. I run a Garrett GT37R Stage 3 and it is costly but have performed flawlessly for me.



Pump-injectors...

I didn't want to go here but I will don my flame suit for the incoming as I know it will here because of the many schools of thought and those who believe in the free mods over a good pump man. To have your truck make power to tow and limit the smoke I recommend you have it removed and sent to a pump shop. They will talk with you about your combo and discuss what they feel would provide you with the best setup for you to do what you want. I do realize that there are many,many over the counter parts available and many free mods,but,once you have had a good pump shop do your pump you will never screw with yours again. They can set the pump up to come in as aggressively as you want or not and have the fuel application set how you want it. After having mine done with over the counter parts once and then having one gone over by a reputable shop there was a night and day difference in my truck in how it drove,smoked and how the power was utilized throughout the rpm band.



Your injector of choice should be discussed when your pump is being done. There are so many flavors out there,some good-some bad,and you need to have them to be able to fit your combo. After all,if your serious about what you want why throw any old injector into a deal where you have already had someone do work. It all has to be considered,cam,head work and pump work to make your injector give you the best bang for the buck. If you don't then all you end up with is a smoke show and alot of heat and trust me when I say I have been there and done that and its not a T-Shirt I want to get another one of.



In closing,Only you know what you want and you need to consider which is the best way to fit your needs. Many here can lead you in different directions and some of those directions will have you end up with spending money twice. My recommendation is find a pump shop,chat with them and then begin to lay out your plans accordingly. (sounds like a broken record). HP is one thing,TQ is another and to get them both efficient and limit smoke and heat is called tuning and what good is that without the first basic step... your pump shop.



I have spent enough money twice on my truck to show you a pile of receipts large enough to have a bonfire with. IF I would have gone to my pump man up front and first,then some of my stupid purchases would have been limited and that money could have been utilized for other parts. So now as I go back and replace some of what parts have already been bought I have realized at how much more I could have had if I would have listened early on and not been so bullheaded... ... . Andy

 

[LVJUNIOR]

I have heard of cutting 3/8" off of the AFC foot to allow more top end fueling. Any thoughts? Is this a good idea or total BS.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

don't cut it off the face, cut it off the barrell section that prevents the foot from traveling forward under boost. This wil still allow you to have smoke control without hurting top end flow. don't forget to flip the AFC washers, or this mod is pretty much worthless

 

[LVJUNIOR]

Which washers do you flip? The only two I know about are on either side of the diaphragm and if I remember right they are flat.