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spark plug boot resistance

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Outback Rainwear

California # 1

The part number you listed for the exciter matches the part number on my CDI box.

CDI.jpg


CDI.jpg
 
Can you get me a VIN? Sounds like it's not a '98.

From the wiring diagram in post #9 the exciter coil has a RED and a RED/BLK wire. The drawing in post #15 shows 2 connectors on the stator wiring.
 
I found a pic I took of the notebook page I wrote the VIN on. There's a chance I wrote a number down wrong so I'll double check it in the morning. What I wrote down is this:

JKBLFBA10WB736809
 
Well, your VIN is good, it is a ’98. I did find a Service Manual Supplement for 1998-1999 models that has the following wiring diagram:

98wiring_zps023bfbfc.jpg


It does show 5 wires to your CDI and it also does not show an exciter coil at all. Guess that’s why we can’t find the wires or connector. It shows the PU coil wires as Black and Yellow from the PU coil to the connector, then Black/White and Black/Yellow from the connector to the wiring harness. From your pics it looks like your PU coil has a Blue and a Black coming from it to the connector.

The good part of this is that it should be even simpler to find the issue. The 5 wires from the CDI are ground, starter button/starter relay, PU coil, engine stop switch (the On/Off switch on the handlebar, and the Ignition coil.

A couple of questions:
• Was the 2nd CDI unit you got from a running ATV? Did you try your CDI on the other ATV?
• Is your battery fully charged?
• Have you checked the wiring from the handlebar switch, PU coil, Ignition coil, and the CDI?

98wiring_zps023bfbfc.jpg
 
A couple of questions:
• Was the 2nd CDI unit you got from a running ATV? Did you try your CDI on the other ATV?
• Is your battery fully charged?
• Have you checked the wiring from the handlebar switch, PU coil, Ignition coil, and the CDI?

1. I bought the 2nd CDI unit on Ebay and was guaranteed that it was from a running ATV......So for whatever that's worth. I don't know of anyone with a similar unit around but I'll keep looking.
2. Battery is fully charged, but before this no spark issue showed up it was a very bad battery and I just pulled started it and it ran fine. Battery is brand new now.
3. I have checked all the wire routing from everything else and it's all good. The only trouble finding is that gray wire that was purposefully cut from the CDI box.

Do you know if there is supposed to be a voltage from the pickup coil while cranking? Or is there an adjustable air gap for that pickup coil?
 
PU coil air gap is listed at .028" +/- .009". I don't see a gray wire on the diagram anywhere which is confusing to me. Do you see both ends of the gray wire where it was cut? Can you trace where it goes on both ends?

No voltage listed for the PU coil, just resistance. How did the woodruff key for the flywheel look?
 
Woodruff key looks good. I'll check the air gap in a few minutes. I can see both ends of the gray wire. There is a few inches of it missing and both ends are dirty like they've been cut for years. The opposite end from the CDI box goes back into the bundle of wires and has a male plug on it. One of those diagrams I posted has a gray wire listed from the CDI box and splicing into a 3rd wire on the ignition switch......my ignition switch only has 2 wires and neither are gray.

If you look at post #19 and the UK/Europe .pdf you'll see the gray wire.
 
CDI connector.jpg


cut CDI wire (gray.jpg


Here is both ends of the CDI box wire connector.
You can see the gray wire that was cut near the box end and the missing few inches of the gray wire. Then at the other end of that bunch of wires is the gray again with a male plug. There is nothing there to plug into except for a brown wire which traces back to the common brown that runs to the ignition switch, reverse and neutral lights, voltage regulator, and starter relay.

CDI connector.jpg


cut CDI wire (gray.jpg
 
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The only wiring diagram I see with a Gray wire is, as you said, for the Euro models. From what I can tell, the only real difference between the Euro model and the US model is that the Euro model has a 3 wire ignition switch. How many wires does yours have? Is one of them Gray?

Eurowiring_zps83a0ab37.jpg


Here's the info on your unit, minus the original owners info that I deleted. I do not recall seeing the "L" at the end of your model number before. I will try to remember to call Kawasaki tomorrow to find out what it is and if it specifies some difference from the standard US model.

Unitinfo_zps253ad176.jpg


Eurowiring_zps83a0ab37.jpg


Unitinfo_zps253ad176.jpg
 
Don't give up on me Cowboy. I haven't forgotten about you. I called Kawi and the guy I needed to talk to was off for the holiday. I'll call him Monday.
 
Don't give up on me Cowboy. I haven't forgotten about you. I called Kawi and the guy I needed to talk to was off for the holiday. I'll call him Monday.

I haven't given up! I was out of state for the Holiday. I coach wrestling, too; and our season begins today so my time will be limited, but this thing is a priority and hopefully I can have it going again before the next snow.

Thanks for everything so far!
 
Talked to Kawi Tech today. The "L" designates that your ATV meets California emissions standards. He had no idea on the gray wire and confirmed that only the Euro models had the 3 wire switch with the gray wire.

I don't know what else to tell you to check. I'd say just double check all your connections and continuity between all the items shown in the diagram on post #9. I know your wiring is different, so you'll need to use the appropriate diagram for the wire colors. Maybe the CDI you got is also bad? I don't know.

Let me know if I can assist further.
 
Thanks! I wondered about the CDI myself. I guess I have the manual and I can try to test the thing with my meter. Next step is to start hanging parts or toss the the dang thing.

Thanks again for all your effort.

Nate
 
I got spark!!!
IDK what the heck is up but all of a sudden it sparks again! I put the old CDI box baon and now it sparks. turns out the new one I bought is no good after all....but the old one is....go figure.
Anyway, I now have all the body panels to re-attach, etc. and can't remember where the ground cable from the battery attaches. Did it go to the frame somewhere or was it attached to the motor?

Thanks again for all the help!
 
What if I removed the hard plastic type, 5k ohm spark plug boot and replaced it with a soft boot and 0 ohm resistance? It would take some jerry-rigging but I definitely would get a much higher voltage to the plug.
 
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