2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Spool for Dana 60 front on 98?

[DPadgett]

Hi everybody. 98 12v 4x4 2500. I was browsing around on 4wheelparts.com and noticed that there are a few companies that offer either a spool or mini spool for Dana 60 front applications. Figured that means that they would fit the dana 60 up front in mine possibly? Anyone have experience with putting a spool up front and any adverse effects? I know it would be a terrible idea for the rear since it is my daily driver but I figured since the front is selectable it wouldnt affect 2wd street driving and would be a cheap way to get better traction in 4wd. But as always, there is a catch, and thats what I am hoping to learn about from some of you on this forum. Thanks for your time!

 

[Scrappy]

yes it will work, the only disadvantage is the front driveshaft is going to be turning all the time.

 

[TBartlett1]

A spool in the front would be an even worse idea.

Lockers or spools are not recommended for the front for use on the street.

Have you ever driven you truck in a paved parking lot with it in 4wd and felt the feed back through the steering wheel??

Stock up on u-joints & axles

An air locker or one of the new electrically operated units would be my choice.

Don't do a spool!!

 

[MarkMiller]

Don't try a spool up front. Use a limited slip.

 

[Rowingfish87]

you are NEVER supposed to engage your 4x4 on dry pavement. even if you are going in a straight line down the road it will still put strain on the driveline. no one can drive a perfectly straight line, gear ratios from front to rear are never exactly the same (3. 54/3. 55 etc). so the only down side to putting a spool in the front would be the driveshaft spinning all the time. this really isnt a big deal as any 4x4 system that does not have a vacuum disconect axle makes the front drive shaft spin all the time. a jeep is a great example. you will only notice the spool once engaged in 4wd and you will greatly appreciate your improved traction. i would suggest a mini-spool over a full spool just for ease/cost of instilation. a full-on selectable locker (air or electric) would be nice, but when they start around $650 + install... the spool is alot easier choice to make.

just my $0. 02

 

[SRath]

Not true!

"any 4x4 system that does not have a vacuum disconnect axle makes the front drive shaft spin all the time. "



Any lockout hub/ part-time t-case setup allows the front hubs, wheels, tires to spin freely while the driveshaft does NOT turn. Nor do the internal axle shafts or differential.



The vacuum system on our Dodges (CAD) is just the opposite and turns the inner shaft (driver side and inner passenger side) all the time. Wasting fuel and causing unnecessary wear.

 

[BHanna]

A spool on the front end is only useful in certain cases. It can be dangerous in some cases too so if you put one in there it's important to know when to use it and when not to. In those cases where it's not a good idea to use a locked diff, you're going to need to be a 2wd only. That's why selectable lockers or limited slips are better for any street driven vehicle. Spools really only make sense on some full-time off-road vehicles or drag race cars.

 

[340Mark]

DON'T A spool locks left and right axles together. it won't like to turn!

I have a spool in the rear of my drag car, we push it in the pits at times and if the steering is turned at all it's like the brakes are on.

In the rain, well your gonna die

Mark

 

[LVJUNIOR]

I hate my Detroit locker up front. By the time it locks up you are damn near dug in to the axel in one side. I have a PosiLok CAD cable and can disconnect the passenger side at will in 4wd. Would a locker work for this. What stops the drive shaft from spinning with posi?

 

[DPadgett]

Thanks to everyone for their input. It sounds like a spool is not a good idea, full time locker would be ok, but limited slip or selectable locker is the best way to go. I have always heard good things about the Detroit TrueTrac limited slip, is their a dana 60 front application?

 

[SRath]

I would check out the Detroit Electrax (not the Eaton electric locker) for a front axle if it were in my humble budget.

You get the best of both worlds: The seamless transparency of the TrueTrac limited slip; plus, at the flick of a switch, a fully locked differential when you need it.

No other selectable locker offers full-time limited slip AND full locking capability. It is available for the Dana 60. The Eaton unit is not. I think this unit would be excellent for "keeping you out of trouble" as well as getting you out. Selectable lockers are sort of like locking hubs and part-time t-cases: If you wait too long to engage them, it might be too late as you have lost your momentum. That is why I think a full-time limited slip combined with full lockup ability is such a great idea.

Furthermore, if anything breaks or fails in the engagement system of the locker, the unit defaults to limited slip.

I am installing a Powr-Lok limited slip in my Chevy's dana 60 front axle. Why? Because I already own it, so the price is right. I am re-stacking the all-steel clutch packs as Dana recommends for a front axle (less aggressive). If I like it, I have another that will go in the Dodge D60 once I have upgraded to locking hubs and one-piece, D60-sized, inner axles.

Be aware that our Cummins Dodges are quite capable of easily destroying the wimpy D44-sized 3-piece CAD shaft (you have to count that little coupling sleeve) they came stock with. The driver side inner shaft is just as scrawny, but is one piece. Adding a limited slip or locker and big, aggressive tires will make it more likely you will break something.

My Dodge has a factory Powr-Lok in the rear Dana 80 and it does not impress me at all there. No limited slip would. And the Powr-Lok is considered among the best, most aggressive limited slips available. But get one wheel in the air or on slick ice/snow, and the truck is stuck. The newer Powr-Loks like my Dodge has, come with fiber coated friction plates which are nowhere near as good as the all-steel plates of earlier Powr-Loks. They wear very quickly and aren't very aggressive.

I am a firm believer in a Detroit Locker for rear axles. No compromise traction and a proven bulletproof legacy. And if you know how to drive with a Detroit rear locker, and you do have to drive accordingly, there is nothing better for a daily driver pickup.

Leave the spools for the dragstrip. They are completely unsuitable for daily driver street use.

I would not recommend any traction aid for your front axle until you address the factory weaknesses first. Beefy, 1. 5", one-piece inner shafts and lockout hubs with beefy 1. 5 inch 35 spline stub shafts (since the conversion kits come that way) are a prerequisite imo. You have no more strength, probably less, in that factory pseudo Dana 60 than an old Dana 44 has. Put diesel torque and aggressive tires and a traction aid on that and watch it break parts.

 

[JMcCoy]

The people that talk about street drivability issues don't know what their talking about. No offense intended. Yes. The drivetrain will be turning all the time. This is no different than the 2001 and 2002 non-CAD rams which is a far stronger system. You will probably lose . 5 MPG and a bit more wear(minimal, due to lack of torque applied in 2wd). As SRATH pointed out, you are more likely to break something off road due to the increase in traction. The key words are INCREASE IN TRACTION. You run no less risk with a selectable locker. That is unless you do what SRATH stated and go 1. 5" 35 spline axles. Then you need to change to 35 spline stub axles. The only kits that I know of are the free spin kits. Free spin kit and axle kit run somewhere in the area of $2,500 plus locker and maybe gears at that point. You can break and replace a lot of axles for that much $$$. That being said I plan on doing the free spin kit. That is going to have to wait until my budget allows.

Do yourself a favor and get the Posi-lok vacuum elimination kit. My vacuum accuator sucked up water and I lost front wheel drive. Buy the time I got pulled out, the truck sunk into the Florida Muck. Water then sucked into my transmission pan via a B&M plug kit (garbage). That cost me a transmission.

In conclusion a mini spool is fine as long as you are aware of your axles weaknesses. Your axle in any form is not a MUD BOGGING, ROCK CRAWLING, OR BAJAING axle (unless you do what SRATH prescribed). DON'T put it in 4X4 and make a turn on solid pavement. You will only do that once. A solid spool is a waist of time and $$$. By the time you spend the $$$, you could pay a little more and get a selectable locker. Hope this helps. Good Luck.



'98 2500 4x4, 3. 55, 12v, #6 plate, Banks twin ram, ATS ex manifold, ex brake, 4" ex, ATS 47re, KDP killed, BD steering stablizer, BD 3rd gen adjustable track bar kit, Luke's link joints, Posi lok, Autometer gauges, 2. 5" level kit, Edelbrock shocks, 35" BFG mud KM2.