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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) SPS62 or HTB2? Input please!

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Check out the vendor promotions in the classifieds that might sway you a little. The PS, SPS and silver bullets are on sale until December through PDW.
 
Htb2

I have htb2 62/14 and have no complaints I havent once hit 1400 deg. well except on my dyno. but real everyday driving with SW-9 and TST 4-6 my cruising temp is 550-750 pending outside temp. I dont tow with the smarty just with TST on 4 and haven't had a problem. I was getting good mpg with the turbo and after I purchased the smarty when I drive (the 400 mile in-law trip) I use the fuel saver SW, I can now do this whole trip just above 1/2 a tank. vise befor between half and 1/4 but Im happy with the HTb2 I went to www.sourceautomotive.biz for it they are very easy to talk to. hope this helps.

2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC HTT 62/14 CON-OFE TST PM3+SMARTY 100HP/JAMMERS AFE/2 4"SILVERLINE ISPRO PYRO,BOOST,FUEL GAUGES,

TURN-OVER BALL, RIDE RITE AIR BAGS. FASS 95/FLOW PUMP, VULCAN 3/8 FUEL LINE AND FITTINGS, FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, DSS 03 TRAC-BAR DSS BOX SUPPORT 17'' KMC BLACK HOSS, 305/70/17 PRO-COMP X-AT'S COUPLE OF STUPID STICKERS AND DE-BADGED FOR FUEL MILEAGE. :-laf
 
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SPS62 and the HTB2 isn't exactly apples to apples. The PS62 and the HTB2 are a more comparable bunch or the SPS62 vs. the Super Stock 62.

They are all good turbos. I have had good luck with HTT, but I have never used a II turbo. It is a preference and a $$$ thing. I don't think that you will be disappointed in either one.

The group purchase may sway you in the way of II at this time, but a couple weeks ago HTT had a group buy on. Good luck with what ever you choose.
 
Both I. I. & High Tech have good products & have their stuff together. The high tech stuff is a little cheaper in price, but I think the quality is equal. I got my turbo from Paul @ HT & let me tell you about this company. I originally had a HTB2 62/14 that I wanted to upgrade to a Super 62. I called Paul & told him that I didn't have the time to send him my turbo & wait for a upgrade. I didn't have the money to pay for another turbo either. He sent me a super & said that when I recieve the turbo to just swap it & send in the HTB2. He trusted me to return the turbo & said that I had 30 days to return it before he would charge my credit card. I applause great service!!!
 
The "Super" on the Phat Shaft turbos refers to the low back pressure wheel that is installed on them, which I believe is also referred to as the killer wheel (71mm). This killer wheel is also what differentiates the Super stock turbo from the HTB2. So that is why the HTB2 and the PS62 are comparable and the SPS62 and the Super stock 62 are comparable. The price comparison gives you an idea on how close they are. Some have seen up to 200 degree drop in egts with the killer wheel.

I am sure each place does some different porting and/or bearing work too. All in all I think that they are both good places to buy from. The help from HTT has been great for me so I have not had to look elsewhere, hence I have no direct experience with II.
 
"Low backpressure wheel" = specially designed turbine wheel? Does low backpressure mean longer spool time? It's making sense why it would help EGT's, but my gut is telling me that the happier the EGT's are, the slower spooling it's gonna be? How much RPM different in spool between a PS62 and an SPS62 or analgous question on HTT turbos?



Sorry, all our big jet engines (Pratt & Whitney) are axial compressors/turbines, none of this radial stuff, so trying to wrap my head around it a bit.





Tim
 
The wheel is a Borg warner wheel, so not really specially designed just a good combination I guess.

I have not run both so I can't say from experience, but everything I have read or heard is that the low pressure wheel does spool just a little slower, not much.

Not sure if it is worth the extra $$$. The nice thing is that if you think you need the new design down the road you can always upgrade.
 
isb360 said:
"Low backpressure wheel" = specially designed turbine wheel? Does low backpressure mean longer spool time? It's making sense why it would help EGT's, but my gut is telling me that the happier the EGT's are, the slower spooling it's gonna be? How much RPM different in spool between a PS62 and an SPS62 or analgous question on HTT turbos?



Sorry, all our big jet engines (Pratt & Whitney) are axial compressors/turbines, none of this radial stuff, so trying to wrap my head around it a bit.





Tim

The Low drive pressure wheel is slower from 0-10psi, but from 10psi to peak boost... the LDP is gone. These wheels are for fast acceleration to peak boost & mainly for fast movement of the hot exhaust gases. They get the heat out as they cool. The Egt's get hot because the hot gases are not escaping the turbo & building heat. You can't put a cool air charge into the engine if your turbo isn't cooling before making boost. It's like opening the oven door & putting a fan in front of it that is sucking the heat out & blowing at you. :{ The turbine wheel is in charge of getting rid of the heat while the compressor wheel is in charge of pulling in the cool air from the intake & making boost. The bigger the turbine wheel=the more heat getting moved out the exhaust pipe. I hope this helps. :)
 
For a given exhaust volume, the larger turbine wheel will exert more force on the shaft, thus driving the compressor harder and moving more air on the cold side. This would be advantageous in a situation such as towing, where partial throttle and mid rpms won't generate enough exhaust flow to drive the compressor hard enough to get useful boost to keep the egts down. The larger turbine wheels will result in more boost at lower drive pressures, thus better mid range egts.



The downside is the rotational mass. The larger wheels will take more time to spin up because of their inertia.



So you're gaining mid-throttle efficiency at the expense of time-to-max-boost by going with the larger turbine wheel.



Just a guess, anyway...
 
PC12Driver said:
For a given exhaust volume, the larger turbine wheel will exert more force on the shaft, thus driving the compressor harder and moving more air on the cold side. This would be advantageous in a situation such as towing, where partial throttle and mid rpms won't generate enough exhaust flow to drive the compressor hard enough to get useful boost to keep the egts down. The larger turbine wheels will result in more boost at lower drive pressures, thus better mid range egts.



The downside is the rotational mass. The larger wheels will take more time to spin up because of their inertia.



So you're gaining mid-throttle efficiency at the expense of time-to-max-boost by going with the larger turbine wheel.



Just a guess, anyway...

Yeah what he said!! but PC12Driver... . isn't that word for word straight out of the new register? ;) I may be mistaken, but if not you are damn good at explaining yourself. :-laf
 
Huh, I haven't seen the new mag yet. I guess it could be that I have a little background with turbines... ;)



And thanks a lot. Now I'm gonna go sit by the mailbox and wait...
 
PC12Driver said:
Huh, I haven't seen the new mag yet. I guess it could be that I have a little background with turbines... ;)



And thanks a lot. Now I'm gonna go sit by the mailbox and wait...

Lots of turbo info in this one. Articles on High Tech & Industrial Injection turbos from compressor sizes to flow comparisons. I love TDR Mag's! :D :D
 
I'd say take a really long look at the Super Stock 62 - there's a lot of thought and design behind that turbo. You certainly get a lot for your dollar when it comes to High Tech products.
 
OK So I've been following this thread. For the past 6 mos or so I've been trying to decide on which turbo to get when I'm ready (hopefully before the Fling). What's been recommended to me is the HBT2/14 as I'm going to up the 1. 6s to 4's or maybe 5's.



Check my signature - not really bombed - but plan on bumping things up a bit.



Here's the skinny - I don't tow anything (at least I haven't since I bought it in 01), I have no billet shafts or anything in the DTT trans, an open end diff (for now :{ ) and I only plan on some mild (safe) street racing, an occasional visit to the drag strip and the seasonal dyno runs. My concern is (of course) egts, with the stock turbo I can see the needle peg quickly (1500 :eek:) when @5-4 on the road (now I realize this is related mainly to the stock turbo capacity/ability to perform) and I let out of it so the temp comes down quickly. My style of driving is usually to and from work and when not going to or from work it's punch it stop punch it stop - ;). So, I "think" I'd need a turbo that is good mid to high that'll keep egts in check - yes? So the HTB2/14 should do it verses the 12? I'll probably be limited to 500 hp due to trans constraints (no billet stuff) so I'm really concerned with keeping the head gasket in place and the pistons etc. at a safe operating temp with my style of abuse/driving. Am I close with the mid to high spool up point versus the low spool? If I was towing/sled pulling I could see the need for low end spool up. I think - thanks. I love this TDR Place - only in America! :-laf
 
HTB2/14?? Do you mean 62/14 or 64/14?? I think with the mach 4's it might get a tad warm. Definately liveable. They have the new high tech series and you could go superstock 62
 
zstroken said:
HTB2/14?? Do you mean 62/14 or 64/14?? I think with the mach 4's it might get a tad warm. Definately liveable. They have the new high tech series and you could go superstock 62





Guess the HTB2/14 I'm referring to is old technology - can't find it on the HTT site http://www.htturbo.com/ so I know the one I was quoted was not the "killer" so it must be a 62/14 Either way looks like the same thing I was quoted as the price is comparable to the HTB2 62 - (Street Stock). So it'll still get hot w/4s or 5s? Then what to do that will match my style / needs to keep egt's down?
 
The HTB2 isn't old technology it just isn't the latest and greatest new combo. As I understand it the HTB2 62/xx is just now being referred to as the Street Stock turbo. Probably to keep is strait with the new Super Stock turbo. It still works good and many people are still happy with them. Like zstroken said, it may get warm but it is liveable. Especially since you are not planning on towing so egts shouldn't be sustained for long periods of time. I don't think you will be disappointed if you get the 62/14, but if the money is available you could consider the Super Stock 62.

Call HTT and tell them what you are doing and they will point you in a good direction. If you look at their website, it says, "Our 62 compressor is the best choice for all around streetability/towing. The 64 and 66 compressors are primarily competition compressors. "
 
I asked some questions of HTT and here are the answers I received, Per Brandon @ HTT, in March of 2006: Our HTB series turbos run usually efficient at 38 - 45 lbs(depending on the setup). I would run with the 14 cm exhaust housing. This will really help out your EGT'S, with the 14 you run more air top end than with the 12 cm exhaust housing. In answer to your other question, is the 12 is snappier out of the whole but it wont flow as much top end like the 14 will. I would recommend the 14 cm. exhaust housing you will like the air flow it gives you and also the power and the decrease in the EGT'S. This will be a good setup for your driving style (these turbos are built for that kind of driving... lol... ). Just keep in mind that you can upgrade the turbo down the road if you keep getting more power and still increasing fuel and running into EGT'S problems.



:cool:
 
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