Stand alone transmission controller?

[Luke Warmwater]

Been looking around at how to swap from my 5sp to an auto. I really don't want to go to the hassle of finding a wrecked 02 auto and swapping all the parts. I have talked to ATS about their stand alone controller/48re and it sounds nice except it's $$$... $12k. Clint's old partner D Ramer will do a stand alone controller and transmission in the $7k range. Spoke to someone at DTT who only had bad things to say about the ATS setup and said the only way to go would be to do a full truck to truck swap. Anyone have experience good or bad with the stand alone setup? Thanks

 

[TBurow]

why not go with a manual valve body? i got a kit from trans-go they are a national supplier for rebuilders, mine works great, and it fixes all the problems with theese transmissions, like having to warm it up in neutral to fill the converterand low line pressure.

 

[Luke Warmwater]

Not knowing much about the autos I don't know? I was hoping for a intro to autos 101 based on my question so I could learn a little about the pros and cons. If you are suggesting what it sounds like, that is something I wondered too. When I've ask a couple people in the past about doing the swap and am told about all the electronics that have to accompany the swap it made it seem like a big pain. At the risk os sounding stupid, let me run with your suggestion... why not go with a manual valve body? Tell me more about your setup. What problems did it fix? What are the down sides to not having electronic controls? Certainly don't mean to start a bash thread but would appreciate more input pro and con about how my options going from a manual to an auto. Thanks!



edit: Let me also explain how the truck is being used. Maybe that will shed some light on what would work well and maybe not so well. I do not tow at all. I am looking for something that will allow me to stoplight race and run at the track. Not sure if that makes a difference but it seems like the electronic controls maybe are more benifical to the people who tow heavy and want to control slippage? Just a guess...

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Manual Auto

A manual Vavle body would probably suit your needs.

The trans is manually shifted at all times.

In other words.

If you put it in 3rd gear it's in 3rd gear even if you are not moving.

It will stay in each gear untill you manually shift it.

Same goes for down shifts.

Be carefull !! If you are jammin down the freeway at 60 mph and downshift to 1st gear. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN!!

I did this one time in my old 65 El Camino.

Good thing the tires broke loose

It would probably break your trans into two pieces.

A ratchet type shifter usually prevents "missed shifts".

I would go full manual in a heart beat if I was the only person driving my truck.

Go for the manual if you are the only person driving your truck.

I talked to Clint about the Stand alone system a while back.

It is cost prohibitive untill I win the Lottery.

I have the no longer availiable Emjay controller.

If it dies I will probaly buy a new truck.



SFB

 

[Morse]

I just bought a stand alone controller from Sunoast Converters for $450. It's for my 47RH. Give them a call, maybe Joe can help. .

 

[Trashdawg]

I have the ATS stand alone on my truck and I am very please with the results. Full trans control plus it has data logging. The price on ATS site is $1500.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

manual valve bodies are a pain unless they're reverse pattern IMHO. I'm going w/ the ATS stand-alone VB

 

[crawler]

Very True Forrest



The reverse patern VB would be a life saver.



Trying to do a three point turn with a full manual is a bit of a pain. But, hey I'm the guy that actually drives his full caged truck on a regular basis. (Track only-yeah right)



Imagine trying to back out of a tight parking spot.



Picture this (let every "-" = a bump on your ratchet shifter)

Ratchet from park - R

Back up

Ratchet R-N-3-2-1

Pull Forward

Ratchet 1-2-3-N now flip the R lockout switch ratchet -R

Back Up

Ratchet R-N-3-2-1

Pull forward



And that's only if you've wiggled out of your spot in two swings



Not to say I'm not willing to put up with this, but just keep it in mind.



~Wes~

 

[Luke Warmwater]

Great info! I was thinking a manual VB would just be like the old autos that were not electronically controlled? I am the only that drives my truck and don't mind shifting myself. Just hard to make boost and then lose boost when shifting manual transmission. I actually was planning on doing a ratchet floor shifter if and when I go auto. So am I understanding correctly that with a manual VB that you actually have to shift from 1-2-3 and cannot just put it in drive and the transmission shift itself? Thanks folks for the education

 

[JBlock]

I got a spare valvebody you can have for $100, to install the tran-go-kit, I thing the bundy kit better. your call.

 

[TBurow]

i use my truck for daily driving only, the manual valve body is great, i have full control of the trans, 4th and lockup are controlled by switches ant the shifts are very firm, i could probably chirp the tires with each shift if i had a lower stall converter. also the kit has adjustments for shift firmness, lockup firmness, and lockup holding pressure. if its just you driving go for it its like a stick without a clutch. the kit can be bought on ebay search for part# tfod-3

 

[Will Manchester]

I think ATS has by far the most advanced stand-alone controller out there. It drives awesome once tuned in (extremely tunable for you driving styles). If you can justify the money, you'll love it! You can set up different programs for drag, sled pulling, normal driving, etc. Very cool, but big $$$. Have you talked to Joel @ ATS, he’s got it on his truck – you should get him to take you for a ride.



The other options that I know of are either doing a manual valve body with a 47RE/RH or a 48RE. I too definitely recommend the reveres valve body (PRN123) for ease of shifting and safety (not banging gears towards neutral, reveres, and park). I have a reverse manual VB in a 68 Barracuda if you want to check it out.



Lastly, you could do a 47RH (this would be the same trans that the 94/95 trucks ran). Basically the same as a 47RE, but the VB is all hydraulic. You’d need to rig up OD and TC lock with switches – no other electronics needed and trans will basically shift like a normal trans. You could rig up a 2 lockup controllers like the ATS commander and have OD and TC lockup totally automated. Biggest drawback to the RH that I can see is the output shaft has a hole drilled right through the center of the shaft that would create a weak point – but then again, you don’t hear of many guys busting the RH output shafts. The snout of the shaft is much longer than on a RE, could be that it twists instead of shearing… dunno. Not sure if there is a “billet” output shaft for the RH’s either?



Some of the other transmission vendors may have a true electronic standalone controller, worth checking into.

 

[Fishin Guide]

For the amount of money for a stand alone, i would swap everything from one truck to the other. It's easy with both trucks side by side and you could probably get a wrecked hulk with all the necessary wiring, ect for dirt cheap. Not to mention there is more than one auto guy here that would probably jump at the chance to swap it out.



Dave

 

[BHaden]

PCS; Powertrain Control Solutions. They have an electronic paddleshifter setup that lets you computer program shift characteristics. About $900. Not sure if they have exactly what you need. Call them. I was thinking of one for my 545rfe until I sold it last week to get the CTD.

 

[TJSHOTROD]

I just swapped my transmission and when I was looking into to the stand-alone I heard mixed reviews it was love or hate. Also when I talked to transmission builders the did not recomend the manual v-b.



TJ

 

[Will Manchester]

Also when I talked to transmission builders the did not recomend the manual v-b.



TJ

What were the reasons that builders did not recommend a manual VB?

 

[TJSHOTROD]

I did not get into detail they just said it was ok for race trucks but would that it would wear out a daily driven auto.

 

[crawler]

The module and wiring harness used by the ATS stand alone are actually made by PCS and then re-labeled by ATS.



ATS poduces the VB modifications to make it all work.



You could purchase the module, harness, and software from PCS. But, then you would have to get the VB from ATS and you would still need some plugs and some specifics to make the controller work correctly with the VB.







~Wes~

 

[Luke Warmwater]

I want to thank everyone for the input on this thread. My priorities changed last week as I got news that my parents house had burned to the ground. Myself and my brother rushed back to Indiana to help them sift through what was left and work through all the issues that have to be dealt with in these situations. It's very tough watching your 70 year old parents reduced to tears after losing a lifetime of memories and sentimental property. They have a lot of faith in God and we all know things will work out but right now it's tough. I probably won't be doing/thinking much truck stuff for the forseable future but hopefully will be back in the game in a couple months and will bring this thread back to the top and take advantage of all the great advice available. Thanks again.



Mike

 

[JBlock]

God Bless you and your parents, And a speedy recovery for the lifes to return to normalicy.