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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Starter removal wrenches heads up!

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Last May before a road trip I had purchased from Geno's the starter contacts and plunger in case my starter failed on the trip. It did not fail on the trip but yesterday it did fail. ~165,000 miles



I also had read about the top bolt needing a short (5") 10mm, 12pt wrench, so I also ordered the wrench.



I'm not starting a flame here, but just stating my personal experience. :)



The Bottom 2 bolts required the 5" long wrench with a cheater pipe slipped over the wrench for leverage to crack the 2 bolts loose.



There is no way that short 5" wrench could crack that top bolt loose.



From the top, I used 3 - 10" long 3/8" drive extensions with a swivel joint on the bottom at the socket (10mm 12pt).



That's 30" long with a 10" breaker bar on top to crack loose the top starter bolt. It was easy to do. I found a good easy angle down from in front of the Brake master cylinder, past the fuel filter to the starter top bolt.



For a change it was very nice to have the repair parts on hand and not have the truck down waiting for a delivery too arrive. :)



I hope this helps TDR Members in the future.



Tom
 
Ok fellows, with all the questions about starter removal I thought I would just bump this back up top. Hope this helps someone.

Cheers, Tom
 
I just use a socket, a few 3/8 extensions and a breaker bar then switch to a ratchet. With enough extensions it gets far enough out to use the breaker bar and ratchet.



Dave
 
On my 06, I took the starter motor off of the reduction grear housing and then remover the gear housing, with socker extension, and long handled ratchet.
 
i changed the bolt to regular heads, instead of the special ones. i still had to cut on head off to get the starter off then i had to remove the remainder!! stupid engineers.
 
i changed the bolt to regular heads, instead of the special ones. i still had to cut on head off to get the starter off then i had to remove the remainder!! stupid engineers.

Buy a half moon 10mm 12pt wrench for the top bolt on the starter. Harbor Freight is your friend. The Gearwrench half moon set is better.

The starter bolt pattern in typical on most starters, worse on Class 8 trucks (bigger motor & solenoid). Not that bad. I have not run in to too much on the Dodge/Cummins that has prompted me to cuss the engineers. A Cummins 8. 3 P-pumped in a cab over school bus however... . and air compressors. Ford 7. 3 IDI and Powerstroke... . Eh. Ford 6. 0... line 'em up along a wall and get the firing squad. Chevy 6. 2 & 6. 5, not so bad, Duramax... . must have been the engineers that quit Ford.

Replaced an oil dipstick tube on a Caterpillar 950 wheel loader last week. Had to pull the fuel filters, fuel line, 4 hydraulic hoses, a 75# hydraulic pump and an engine mount. #@$%!
All that BS for an oil dipstick tube.

I think there is only 4 specialty wrenches/tools that I bought for working specifically on Dodge (89-02). Snap-On 9/16, 17mm and 19mm line/crowfoot sockets, and that damn VP gear puller. Then el-cheapo SAE & MM 4 way wrench sets, SAE & MM stubby, and the half moon & "S" shaped wrench sets (like $15 each).


I am a professional mechanic, and 90% of my tools have been bought at Harbor Freight. I might have $13k total (includes the high dollar and air tools). The rest was bought at pawn shops, E-bay, and online retailers.
 
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I break my top bolt loose from underneath with a GearWrench using a 2ft piece of 3/8 square stock with a notch ground into one end. (to cradle the wrench) I place a 2ton bottle jack w/ screw extension on the ground to press up on the gearwrench. It takes about a minute to get the bolt clear out.
 
Interesting. I bought a set of these from Sears YEARS ago. Then they were called ratchet box end. They are sure handy, but I doubt mine would crack a starter bolt. I used a box end and a hammer! (and some profanity)
 
I have used a 12 pt combination wrench many times. Had to put it on the top bolt and give it a smack with a hammer to get it to crack loose.
 
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