Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Here's what Bush' sent me w/ original help from Case500.....
Thanks Boys!
>>>>To change the steering shaft, the first thing
I did was remove the front wheel. Make sure to turn the front wheels so
you have good acess to the roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack
the truck up. Next, take a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the
orange plastic piece that is inside the roll pin. If it breaks off, you
can use a small diameter punch to drive it out. To drive the roll pin
out, you need to hold a block of steel behind the shaft to absorb the
blows from hitting the roll pin. If not there is a chance you could
damage the upper set of needle bearings on the stub shaft of the steering
gearbox. A 2lb hammer head or a chunk of steel stock will work fine. You
just don't want the bearings inside to be taking the force of the blow
when driving the roll pin out. I know this from experience as I ruined
the oil seal in mine by not supporting the shaft. Anyway, if the roll pin
won't drive out one way, turn the shaft and try the other way. Sometimes
when the roll pins are driven in, they flare a bit and it is much easier
to drive them out in reverse than on through. Once the roll pin is out
you will have to remove the old shaft at the rag joint. It requires
strong arms and a 12 point wrench, 5/16" I think. Then you can take the
old shaft out. Now to tackle the seal. Clean the stub shaft up with a
wire brush, emery cloth, and carb cleaner. You can remove the dust seal
(and snap ring I think) with a small scribe or screwdriver. As for the
seal, you might have to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and
screw a couple of drywall screws in to help pull it. On mine, it just
took a small chisel to drive/turn it out. Once the seal is out, you will
have to wait for the oil to drain out. Once it stops dripping, clean
everything up the best you can with carb cleaner. I greased the shaft and
put red lcoktite on the outside of the seal. The grease will help keep
the lip from rolling on the seal and the locktite will keep oil from
leaking out around the ouside of the seal. I used a deep well socket to
gently drive the seal in. Then take a small screwdriver and fill the gap
between the oil seal and the dust seal with the grease that comes with the
two seals. This will help keep any water out. Then the dust seal will
drive on/in. I think somewhere in there there is a snap ring, buyt I
can't remeber where it is. You may encounter it somewhere, but it is very
easy and self explaining. When you put the new Borgenson shaft on, make
sure the steering wheel wis centered before you file the flat spot on the
stub shaft flat. I found the best way to center the shaft is to put the
wheels on and drive the truck down the drive. You will understand once
you try it. Once the shaft and steering wheel is centered, then tighten
the set screw to mark the stub shaft. Also mark where the steering saft
goes on so nothing gets out of alighnment. Then you can file a flat spot
on the stub shaft for the set screw to sit. Also, for the lowest set
screw, remove it from the steering shaft and file a flat spot on the
steering shaft where the lock nut will set. Borgenson doesn't do this,
and it causes the set screw to stretch and possibly break when the lock
nut is being tightened. (Dohhhh!) The flat spot on the steering shaft,
gives the lock nut a shoulder to set on. Trust me, been there, done that.
Everything else is pretty straight forward. Good luck and feel free to
ask any more questions. It will probably take about 3 hours to do
everything. Have fun! Bob...
>>>>
KEENO
Thanks Boys!
>>>>To change the steering shaft, the first thing
I did was remove the front wheel. Make sure to turn the front wheels so
you have good acess to the roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack
the truck up. Next, take a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the
orange plastic piece that is inside the roll pin. If it breaks off, you
can use a small diameter punch to drive it out. To drive the roll pin
out, you need to hold a block of steel behind the shaft to absorb the
blows from hitting the roll pin. If not there is a chance you could
damage the upper set of needle bearings on the stub shaft of the steering
gearbox. A 2lb hammer head or a chunk of steel stock will work fine. You
just don't want the bearings inside to be taking the force of the blow
when driving the roll pin out. I know this from experience as I ruined
the oil seal in mine by not supporting the shaft. Anyway, if the roll pin
won't drive out one way, turn the shaft and try the other way. Sometimes
when the roll pins are driven in, they flare a bit and it is much easier
to drive them out in reverse than on through. Once the roll pin is out
you will have to remove the old shaft at the rag joint. It requires
strong arms and a 12 point wrench, 5/16" I think. Then you can take the
old shaft out. Now to tackle the seal. Clean the stub shaft up with a
wire brush, emery cloth, and carb cleaner. You can remove the dust seal
(and snap ring I think) with a small scribe or screwdriver. As for the
seal, you might have to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and
screw a couple of drywall screws in to help pull it. On mine, it just
took a small chisel to drive/turn it out. Once the seal is out, you will
have to wait for the oil to drain out. Once it stops dripping, clean
everything up the best you can with carb cleaner. I greased the shaft and
put red lcoktite on the outside of the seal. The grease will help keep
the lip from rolling on the seal and the locktite will keep oil from
leaking out around the ouside of the seal. I used a deep well socket to
gently drive the seal in. Then take a small screwdriver and fill the gap
between the oil seal and the dust seal with the grease that comes with the
two seals. This will help keep any water out. Then the dust seal will
drive on/in. I think somewhere in there there is a snap ring, buyt I
can't remeber where it is. You may encounter it somewhere, but it is very
easy and self explaining. When you put the new Borgenson shaft on, make
sure the steering wheel wis centered before you file the flat spot on the
stub shaft flat. I found the best way to center the shaft is to put the
wheels on and drive the truck down the drive. You will understand once
you try it. Once the shaft and steering wheel is centered, then tighten
the set screw to mark the stub shaft. Also mark where the steering saft
goes on so nothing gets out of alighnment. Then you can file a flat spot
on the stub shaft for the set screw to sit. Also, for the lowest set
screw, remove it from the steering shaft and file a flat spot on the
steering shaft where the lock nut will set. Borgenson doesn't do this,
and it causes the set screw to stretch and possibly break when the lock
nut is being tightened. (Dohhhh!) The flat spot on the steering shaft,
gives the lock nut a shoulder to set on. Trust me, been there, done that.
Everything else is pretty straight forward. Good luck and feel free to
ask any more questions. It will probably take about 3 hours to do
everything. Have fun! Bob...
>>>>
KEENO
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