2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering upgrade (was "My Steering Sucks")

[Jim Brewer]

Thanks to the prolific posting of Muchsnow in this forum (this thread), I decided to take on the job of upgrading the steering on my 2001 4x4. I decided to go with the DSS (Darrin steering stabilizer), the TBK (2003 trackbar) upgrade, and replace the inverted "Y" steering linkage setup with the "T" configuration.



First, I'd rate the difficulty of this as fairly easy for someone with good mechanical skills. I wouldn't try it unless you have a 1/2" impact, a good selection of impact sockets. Also, the TBK bracket required about 2 hours of grinding on the frame bracket with an air die grinder to get it "close" to fitting.



Tools: You'll need strong jackstands & a jack, droplight, 1/2" impact, 1-5/16 socket (if you're doing the DSS for stock pitman arm nut), 18mm, 24mm sockets, misc deep SAE sockets from 5/8" to 1 1/4", 3/4" opening pickle fork, 1" opening pickle fork, 3 lb. hammer, needle nose pliers, grease gun, 1/2" drive torque wrench, misc ratchet extensions, SAE open end wrenches for holding the backsides.



Parts: I ordered the steering parts from Advance Auto Parts (again, thanks to Muchsnow for posting the list). I ordered the whole setup since just about every rod end I had was worn after 102K miles. My local store was able to get them all in 2 days and all of them had zerk fittings . . here's the list. .



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I also ordered the DSS and the TBK from Mr. Bob's Distributing , who sent them REALLY fast Oo. so I was able to get all of the parts in just a few days. Here are all of them in my living room (my wife knows how I am :-laf) . .



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The job: Get the front end up on jackstands and whip off the wheels. I took off the stock linkage as a unit by disconnecting both tie rod ends, the pitman arm attachment, and the steering damper. The whole thing fell out as a unit and I marveled at what a pile of junk it was compared to the TRW parts. Here's a side by side . .



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To install the center link, I got an initial length adjustment by measuring the center-to-center distance on the old setup and adjusted the new link to the same . .



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This was VERY rough, since the rod ends can move and the old inverted Y needs to be in it's running geometrical configuration to get an accurate measurement (maybe that's why it doesn't work so well?). . I attached the driver side tie rod end and since I was doing the TBK upgrade at the same time, I left the center link disconnected until I finished installing the TBK ...



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I put the wheels back on with 4 nuts at this point just for an extra measure of safety. I was thinking I'd really be pushing things around from underneath and the wheels seems like cheap life insurance. The 18mm screw holding the axle mount has a unique captive nut setup inside of the mounting bracket. It's also has a liberal amount of locktite on it, so use the impact. Here's what the captive nut looks like . .



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Thanks goodness for that since you'd never get a wrench in there. Once that is loose, you unscrew the stock track bar mounting nut/ball joint from the frame and pound it out with the 1" pickle fork. To get the impact on that nut you'll need a 6" or longer extension to get past the spring & fender liner (if you have one).

 

[Jim Brewer]

Now it's time to mount the TBK bracket. As has been noted elsewhere and in it's instructions, it doesn't fit perfectly right out of the box . . especially where the bracket mounts to the stock mounting point.



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I spent about 3 hours grinding on this with a cutoff wheel to approximate a flat surface and still didn't get it completely flat. The front mount of the TBK bracket uses the stock steering box mount screw. I did several trial fittings using that screw for alignment to figure out where I needed to grind. When I went through the metal on the frame mount, I decided that was enough grinding . .



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I guess the good part is that my truck is lighter now. The other little issue with the TBK bracket is that it didn't line up with the frame hole quite right.



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Fortunately, I had a die grinder bit to elongate the frame hole, so I made it match the bracket. The top "hole" for this bolt is a slot in the frame, so it allowed for some movement. Final bolt up was pretty easy, but the instructions called for 215 ft/lbs for the stock mount bolt. My torque wrench doesn't go that high, so I just hammered on it with the impact and gave it a last twist with a 1/2" breaker bar for good measure.



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After the TBK & track bar were installed, I mounted the DSS stabilizer. The instructions for that were VERY good and the part fit right out of the box. Having the impact for the pitman arm nut and the sway bar mounts really helps. Also the torque spec for all of the screws for the DSS were "sane" so I was able to torque them correctly. Then I finished up installing the steering linkage, torqued all of the castle nuts, installed the cotter pins, and greased everything with the gun.



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I omitted the stock steering damper . . I suspect I'll need to get a clamp on bracket for the center link in order to remount it (or an aftermarket one).



Then the fun . . road test! I immediately felt a lighter, more positive steering with all of these parts, even before getting it aligned. There was noticably less play in the wheel and I felt as though I could get more feel from the road. The pull-to-the-left was gone and the truck would track dead straight.



I did some tight steering maneuvers and found that the right wheel hits the center link on extreme left hand turning & backing.



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I'm not sure what to do about this except avoid hard lefts (or get some bigger wheels ). The right clears by just the smallest amount . .



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That's it. I'm happy with this upgrade and I can't wait until I can try it towing on the highway and off road in Utah. BTW, I did check the ball joints while doing this and my driver's side upper is sloppy, but that's another job.



Let me know if you have any questions about this... good luck!

 

[dieselshu]

you forgot one thing...

Jim, you forgot one thing in your post... . your credit card number was not on the receipt :-laf how am I supposed to get the parts

Nice write up, glad it work for you. Knock on wood, my steering is holding with a DSS, Lukes Link and new dampner. Enjoy your new ride.



Dave

 

[SnoKing]

Well, it may have been a mistake, but I walked over to the junk drawer and pulled out a larger fender washer that fit that 215 lb bolt and put it between the bracket and the old mount and bolted everything up without any grinding. SNOKING

 

[Jim Brewer]

I walked over to the junk drawer and pulled out a larger fender washer that fit that 215 lb bolt and put it between the bracket and the old mount and bolted everything up without any grinding.

I thought about that . . and wondered why solidsteel didn't put a spacer on the plate. I figured with the rather monsterous leverage the track bar has against this bracket, I wanted to avoid putting any more pieces in there. Who knows if it makes a difference. I'll eventually have my friend weld that bracket onto the frame just to keep my mind off of it.

 

[Jim Brewer]

Jim, you forgot one thing in your post... . your credit card number was not on the receipt

It was on the receipt, you just have to look at the other side!

 

[SnoKing]

I was going to watch it for a while and if it "seems" to get loose, have it welded also. SNOKING

 

[TFabian]

Nice write up and pics. Went identical to my conversion. I also had to slot the center bolt hole on the bracket to fit the bolt through the frame rail.

 

[JSellers]

Jim,



Thanks for posting your report. I also want to install this upgrade, but haven't yet dug through muchsnow's list to sort out exactly which pieces to buy. You've now given me a detailed list.



My track bar bracket also had the misaligned hole for the long bolt through the frame channel. However, I could get the bolt to pass through, and it was only spec'd at 40 ft-lbs, so I just snugged it up without having it straight. Perhaps this is part of the mis-engineering to which Marv Windecker refers in his tale of the solid steel partnership split. Maybe we'll all end up welding the bracket.



Thanks again for the detailed reports, guys.

John

 

[Jeff Knight]

Hey Jim, I was out your way a couple of weekends ago. Nice country. Could you please type the part numbers from your recites. I can't get some of the numbers to come up on Advances website. It would be a great help for in the future. Thanks Jeff

 

[Jeff Knight]

Hey Jim, I was able to figure out the part numbers. Thanks for the post. Jeff

 

[Jim Brewer]

Could you please type the part numbers from your recites. I can't get some of the numbers to come up on Advances website.

I went to their parts website http://www.advanceautoparts.com/ then to the "Shop Online" button . . which puts you to http://www.partsamerica.com/ then type the ES#### or DS#### part number in the Search bar and it comes up (for example try ES2012S).



Let me know if that doesn't work.

 

[McCRam]

Good post. Next time I have to work on my tie rods, I will be going to the T setup as well. Thanks for the part numbers.

 

[Chris N5CWM]

Thanks, Jim, for the awesome post and pics! Really do appreciate you sharing this info!

 

[Jim Brewer]

Thanks for the compliments guys, but I really have to give the credit to muchsnow since (as far as I can tell) he did ALL of the research and experimentation on this upgrade in the My Steering Sucks ... thread. I've received SO much good information from the TDR forums in the past that I look forward to contributing back when I can.

 

[muchsnow]

My steering does not suck any more....

I've received SO much good information from the TDR forums in the past that I look forward to contributing back when I can.

I agree whole heartedly, It's nice to have perhaps donated back to the cause.

I've always liked fixes that are oem or look oem and actually work. Plus, I hate steering slop when you know it can/should be better (my 71 Commando steer'd better). This mod is a definite "must" to be considered by those that have the Y setup and are tired of the wanderlust that's built into it.



Have a good one.....

 

[KevinLewis]

Anyone else get a $550 total on their online ordering?

 

[SnoKing]

Hey, here is a picture of Darin's new adjustable TB that he is working on. He emailed it to me. SNOKING

 

[SnoKing]

And here is another with the drop bracket that he is building. SNOKING

 

[Jim Brewer]

Just an update on the "Y" to "T" steering conversion with the DSS and the TBK update ...



I finally had the truck aligned at Bear Alignment in Loveland ($58 and 1 hour of work). They told me it was WAAAY off (which I suspected). Anyway, with it aligned and some miles on the setup, I can definitely say it's MUCH better than stock. There is almost no play in the wheel, it steers light at even very slow speeds, and I can completely let go of the wheel while going straight at 75MPH on the freeway.



I couldn't be happier with the upgrade. Oo.