2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering upgrade (was "My Steering Sucks")

[Walt-L]

May be Im to picky about things, but here it is. #1. IMO The 2 main bolts used in the Windecker kit are not sized properly. First let me say there is NO WAY you should use the 5/8x2 1/2 upright bolt especialy if you put a washer in between the bushing and bracket. I personaly ground half the metal around the frame bushing off and ground a relief on the bracket to make room for what I didnt take off the frame. The bolt shank SHOULD BE nearly up to the nut on top! Go get a 5/8x3" and just cut the extra 1/2" off the end. Even with the EXTRA 1/2" of shank on the 3" you still have treads to spare! Next the tapered bushing I got had 4 an a half thousandths slop on the bolt shank which is one thing but couple that to the fact that the "short" tapered bushing will go up into the hole well beyond the face of the bottom of the frame busing! And this is supposed to "tighten up"? give me a break. First I was going to make a new tapered bushing but instead I took one of the grade 8, 1/8th thick washers and drilled it out to precisely slide over the bolt shank diameter, then i jiged it in the lathe and turned a taper on it's OD to act as a extension of the original taper bushing. This new taper washer comlpetely pressed the taper bushing up into the hole the FULL 1/8th" of its thickness ! Tapered bushings are completely USELESS unless they have a "pressed in flush with the face of the frame fit". This press fitting of the taper bushing would actualy eliminate 1 or may be 2 of the 4 thousandths slop of the shank in the hole. Next, Do your self a favor and relpace the "short shanked" 9/16 x 3 track bar bolt with a 4" one and run a Die down the treads and thread the shank untill you have a FULL 2 1/8" of shank. Years down the road you will NOT get a egg shaped hole starting in ONE of the bracket ears that holds the track bar because the original bolt shank did not ride in BOTH ears! I know, the OEM one on the other end is also short shanked. Its funny how small things like stearing wander leads to new truck purchases! The eye of my bracket was off by at least 1/4" to the frame cross member hole. so what I did once the bracket fit flush to the frame bushing is put a angular hack saw cut about 1/3rd across the width of the bracket from the were the major bend is near the shoulder of the oblong eye hole. Then put a similar angled hack saw cut about half way thru on the other side ALMOST joining with the opposite cut. Leaving about 3/8ths of metal inbetween the 2 cuts. Now I vised one end of the bracket and beat the other half closing up one cut while opening up the other cut untill the eylet matched up perfectly with the droped down bolt in the frame. Now stick weld the hack saw cuts back up. Mind you, I did this AFTER i hot forged a tighter bend into the bracket so it would be "closer" to the bottom of the frame. Don't get me wrong here, I am happy SOMEONE sells these brackets. I got rid of at least half of the wander in the stearing with this mod So Im not done yet. Sorry for the long post but Im surprised no one elas happened to think this was worth mentioning.

 

[SnoKing]

Are we back the issue of the difference between what is coming out of www.solidsteel.ca (Windecker) and www.solidsteel.biz (Darin). I recall Windecker claiming the correct fit and Darin claiming true ownership. SNOKING

 

[emmettcrocker]

Is the track bar up date necessary if you have the lukes link? It seems to me after reading all the post that the track bar is most difficult part due to the poor fit of the bracket. My track bar seems to be solid (no detectable movement as the wheels are moved stop to stop) with the lukes link and stock track bar.

 

[McCRam]

Is the track bar up date necessary if you have the lukes link?

Nope. The Lukes link wouldn't fit on the 3rd gen bar. I don't have any experience with it but it seems many have been happy with the lukes link. I considered the lukes link but decided on the 3rd gen bar since I wanted to get away from the ball joint.

 

[emmettcrocker]

I have a 99 3500 4x4 11000 gvw so I think I already have the heavy duty steering components but Im getting a poping noise as I let out the clutch especially when turning right, I think it is ball joints at 105k im not supprised. can anyone tell me do I have to pull the rotors/axel/and knuckles to change the ball joints. I have all 4 new ball joints and have ordered the dss bracket also have a slight leak at the pitman shaft on the steering gear so I plan to change the seal and bearing as i install the dss. any comments / advice would be appreciated.

 

[Jeff Knight]

Yes you have to remove all that you mentioned. You'll want to change the u-joint while you are in there. It sounds more like the u-joint than the ball joint. good luck. Jeff

 

[Walt-L]

A point needs to be made that at 100K I couldn't "see" a slopy ball joint on the track bar with someone yoking the stearing wheel back and forth while I watched the joint for movment. And once I had the bar off I could feel the ball had no resistance as you wiggled it around in the socket but it certainly wasn't rattleing around in the socket either. Technicaly I wouldn't have said the ball joint was "bad" by the looks of it but that new 03 track bar made one hell of a differance. Fast, tight lane traffic no longer demands that 110% attention to keep the truck safely where you want to be! Im sure it will stear like a dream once the stearing shaft bearing support is on in addition to the 03 track bar.

 

[MDale]

getting ready to convert to t type steering and was wondering if anyone else has had clearance problems with the right wheel and TRE?

 

[muchsnow]

I did but after getting rid if the wheel weights, installing a stop (of sorts), and recentering the front axle under the truck, it now seems to be a non issue. still rides very well.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1244764&highlight=steering+sucks#post1244764

 

[BDanner]

I have no clearance problems on my '01 3500 conversion. Still looking for a steering stabilizer setup to replace the one removed. Anyone found a setup they like for a replacement. I tow a 16k horse trailer and the conversion feels like it could use one at 65mph. when an 18 wheeler blows past me!



muchsnow did you ever install a stabilizer?



_____________________________________



2001 3500 4x4 DTT Transmission, exhaust brake,4" stainless exhaust, Brembo rotors, PSC steering box, T-conversion, Airaid filter, N-E-W!! This Week- Triple & mono pod gauge. Isspro white face w/ blue display includes Fuel pressure, EGT, Boost & transmission temperature.



P. S. It's my wifes truck

 

[JSellers]

BDanner,



I posted about my stabilizer retrofit in this thread:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133898



I'm not sure how to make this a hyperlink, and also don't know how to make the address point to my post only. But if you'll follow the thread, I made reference to a specific Rancho stabilizer shock, and the bracket kit which will allow you to fasten it to your tie rod.



I couldn't make Rancho's kit for our trucks work with the inverted-T type tie rod linkage. The tie rod sleeve is in a place to prohibit mounting the bracket clamp without interfering with the differential cover. Make sure you mount a STABILIZER cylinder, and not a cylinder for shock application. Shocks don't have the same valving rates for compression and rebound. Stabilizers will work the same for both directions of travel.



Hope this helps,

John

 

[rivercat]

anyone done this conversion with a lift? my lift has a spacer that bolts bettween the frame and the upper end of the tracking bar to drop it down the distance of the lift (5") do you use this or chunk it and bolt directly to the frame?

also my stabalizer bar has been spaced down with two pieces of 2inch channel so this would not work with the DSS as the stabilizer no longer hugs the frame can I modifiy the DSS to work with out being tied to the stabilizer mount

bottom line what is the best option for me?

Lukes link
adjustible trackbar
full swap to 3rg gen t style with lots of cutting/ fitting like WALT did

 

[muchsnow]

Use it?

anyone done this conversion with a lift? my lift has a spacer that bolts bettween the frame and the upper end of the tracking bar to drop it down the distance of the lift (5") do you use this or chunk it and bolt directly to the frame?

As long as the drag link and trackbar stay parallel (drop pitman arm or whatever) your handling and bump steer should be fair.

 

[kingdutch]

Difference in prices on parts

Here is an interesting portion of information.

If you use partsamerica.com to order these parts, you get a different price depending on where you are physically located in the country.

Example:

If I use the zip code: 32073

the price for ES3496 = $23. 48

If I use the zip code: 94585

the price for ES3496 = $68. 99

That is a $45. 51 difference for the same TRW FRONT END TIE ROD END.



I called Parts America and they told me that they ship parts to the eastern region of the US via Advance Auto Parts and to the Western region via Kragen/Checker/Etc...



Apparently there is a sunshine state tax being imposed by Kragen/Etc...

 

[Mundgyver]

Your example is a very good one that shows how companies are using median income data of zip codes to jack up pricing. This is a standard business practice that companies use. I won't go as far to say all companies do this, but there are allot of them that do.



Ever wonder why when you buy things in a store they ask your for you zip code. It all goes into a data base that is continually updated, reviewed and used to adjust pricing.



In the end, it is all about how much can they charge before you as a customer will walk away.

 

[KevinLewis]

I have no clearance problems on my '01 3500 conversion. Still looking for a steering stabilizer setup to replace the one removed. Anyone found a setup they like for a replacement. I tow a 16k horse trailer and the conversion feels like it could use one at 65mph. when an 18 wheeler blows past me!

Here is my set up I made. This is the first one. it rubs the diff cover. I have not made my second design yet but it will resolve the rubbing issue.



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1

 

[BDanner]

Steering stabilizer bracket mounts

Here is my set up I made. This is the first one. it rubs the diff cover. I have not made my second design yet but it will resolve the rubbing issue.



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1

Is that a Kore mounting bracket? It looks different than the one shown on their product web site. Nice choice! How bad is the differential rub and is it the bracket or the arm making contact?



I have seen axle mounted brackets from Rancho that appear to change the stabilizer angle and perhaps avoid the rub issue, but the ground clearance is below the differential cover.



Yours is a very clean looking install! What are your additional ideas to avoid rubbing?



_________________________________________________

Bruce in Northern Virginia



2001 3500 4x4 '03 trackbar, PSC, DSS, T-conversion and much more

 

[KevinLewis]

Is that a Kore mounting bracket? It looks different than the one shown on their product web site. Nice choice! How bad is the differential rub and is it the bracket or the arm making contact?



I have seen axle mounted brackets from Rancho that appear to change the stabilizer angle and perhaps avoid the rub issue, but the ground clearance is below the differential cover.



Yours is a very clean looking install! What are your additional ideas to avoid rubbing?

Its not a Kore, I built it. The rubbing is from the clamp bolts and is not that bad really. Its more of a smack right at full lock because of the steering arm angle. I plan to change to pinch bolts a bit to gain more clearance.

 

[PMelton]

Are we back the issue of the difference between what is coming out of Windecker Machine Ltd. Home Page (Windecker) and SolidSteel. biz - Home of the Dodge Steering Stabilizer (Darin). I recall Windecker claiming the correct fit and Darin claiming true ownership. SNOKING

I know this is an ancient thread, but I was researching the task at hand of converting a "Y" type steering sytem to a "T" type and had the same question. Any updates ?

 

[Jim Brewer]

I know this is an ancient thread, but I was researching the task at hand of converting a "Y" type steering sytem to a "T" type and had the same question. Any updates ?

I just got an email for a linkback to my original post from the Cummins Forum. There is an update that the author of this thread - '09-10 steering... Best $322 ever spent! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum posted that describes a set of mopar parts that replaces the stupid Y setup.