Still having fuel delivery troubles...

[truckmen]

My system:
2014 Ram 3500 6.7, 6-speed standard, all stock system

Pulling a 4-car Wally-Mo trailer with or without cars totaling gross weight of 38,000lbs.
I drive as much as 4000 miles /week and average 10,000 miles per month running 48 states.

My problem:
Running at approx 2000 RPM in 6th gear, full pedal up slight grades and showing ~21 PSI turbo pressure, suddenly, the power drops and the turbo pressure drops to 8 or 9 PSI momentarily (~5 seconds or so) then "kicks" back up to 18 - 21 PSI until after ~5 - 10 seconds drops back again.
This will occur several times until I back off on the fuel needs and/or when topping up over a hill and not requiring as much fuel.

This has been happening after I've replaced both filters and even replaced the fuel pump in the tank with a stock OEM replacement.
I've added anti gel, anti growth, anti everything in my fuel with no change.

The problem DOES subside when replacing the fuel filter at the tank but this problem can re-occur in as little as 400 miles or as infrequent as 6000 miles with the problem disappearing for days or weeks at a time.

I am purchasing my fuel 100 gals at a time and careful where I fuel so I don't believe it is algae since it doesn't stay in my tank long enough what with the miles I am driving.

I am wondering if the demands I am placing on this system is just too much and if so, is there an after-market replacement fuel pump that can deliver a little more volume and/or pressure when needing to pull grades at higher RPMs?

 

[Bob4x4]

Are you monitoring fuel pressure or just guessing fuel is your issue

 

[truckmen]

Are you monitoring fuel pressure or just guessing fuel is your issue

Oh, very good question and thank you for asking.
I am actually NOT measuring fuel pressure so yes, I am guessing.

Now, that leads me to a question what to do about getting a good-quality fuel pressure gauge for my system.

 

[Flash1034]

Those cheap *** fuel filters you're using may be too restrictive?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Those cheap *** fuel filters you're using may be too restrictive?

I guess I missed where it said in his post he is using cheap *** fuel filters.

 

[truckmen]

Those cheap *** fuel filters you're using may be too restrictive?

You may be right...

 

[truckmen]

I guess I missed where it said in his post he is using cheap *** fuel filters.

Flash may be referring to these that I'd purchased and am trying out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGYZU3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I run so may miles each week that I will be able to compare by going back to MoPar filters at the tank and then back to another one of these since I have 3 of them.
I'll definitely keep everyone posted with my results.

 

[cerberusiam]

First thing, scan it for codes. Dropping that far in boost then ramping up should set some kind of DTC. That is probably not enough rpm with that weight to run at full throttle, drop a gear or 2 and see if the same issue happens at 2400 or 2500 rpms.

 

[gsbrockman]

Flash may be referring to these that I'd purchased and am trying out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGYZU3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I run so may miles each week that I will be able to compare by going back to MoPar filters at the tank and then back to another one of these since I have 3 of them.
I'll definitely keep everyone posted with my results.

Since one can get the full-blown OEM MOPAR's from Amazon for about $74.00 shipped.....it entirely blows me away why anyone would want to even chance it for a pidddddddddly $17.05 per fuel filter service On a sidenote......I hope it is your fuel filters and MOPAR or FleetgGuard or Parker / RACOR solves your problems.

 

[Newsa]

I've seen those filters dirt cheap on ebay. I would never put those on my truck.

 

[Newsa]

Just hope it's only the fuel filter media moving around in the rear filter and that you haven't already created a fuel delivery problem closer to your injectors.

 

[truckmen]

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate all posts and will probably bite the bullet to stick with OEM.

By the way, I usually don't have this much time to communicate on the forums as I am always running but I have been stuck all day here in the Bronx looking for a couple more cars to bring out to PA before turning around back to Maine. I am literally sitting on an exit ramp off the I-95 and will have to get somewhere to use a bathroom (ha ha ha).

 

[Flash1034]

Let us know what you find out. If it is the discount fuel filters, let us know so someone else doesn't use them.

 

[truckmen]

Let us know what you find out. If it is the discount fuel filters, let us know so someone else doesn't use them.

Okay all,

Update on my problem:

It's been a better part of a week since my last post about this problem. Soon after my post last week, the problem went away by itself and, it's been several hundred miles through hills and city driving alike with no symptoms. I did not do a single thing to fix it.
During this time, I drove through NYC on through NJ and into Pennsylvania with full loads over pretty decent hills. I also drove back through NJ, unloaded and reloaded in NYC and came back to Maine.

Then, last night on my home with only one car on level ground, the problem came back. At this point, I stopped and with my OBD-II reader cleared all trouble codes. What was one those codes you ask? Among other things, "Low fuel rail pressure". Really?? I could have figured that out myself. What I needed was more specific information. Well maybe I am just in a bad mood about this, whatever.

So moving right along, the problem went away entirely. So, at this point I can tell you with a good amount of certainty that it has not been the fuel filter(s). My fuel is clean and there is no way that filter would have clogged in less than 300 miles. And, I am sure that the quality of the filter is also not an issue. And I put on another 2000 miles with no problem. By the way, those who would not use these filter because they may not be good enough might be pursuing a moot point for the simple reason that the fuel goes on downstream through the MoPar filter at the engine anyway. Furthermore, I was told that just a few years before this model (2014) Ram did not even HAVE a filter located off the tank. Whether that is true or not can be verified.

Back to this problem...if it's not the filter and it's not the pump (as I already replaced that on advice of another poster here) then what is it? If the problem went away after I'd cleared the codes, does that mean I have an electronic problem? Perhaps a computer issue? Could that be resolved with my going to a dealer and having the computer re-flashed? Perhaps it's a sensor somewhere else that is affecting a switch to the in-tank fuel pump. Someone, please, someone who knows what they're talking about help out.

Back to your post, Flash: My determination for the cheaper filter is the same as before. I don't think I have a problem with this filter since I still run the MoPar one downstream. I still have 2 out if the 3-pack that I haven't used and will change it anyway but for narrowing down the problem, I should try to do only one fix at a time. I hope those of you reading this will be helped by my dilemma and yes, I will keep following up with this nagging issue.

By the way, I am about ready to buy an after-market in-line pump to push fuel through to the main pump at the engine but afraid that may screw something else up. Hell, I still have no idea what sensors my be affected by such a modification. If anyone here know, please help out.

 

[Bob4x4]

Clearing the codes with out recording them will not help troubleshooting................

 

[truckmen]

Clearing the codes with out recording them will not help troubleshooting................

No Problem, Bob4x4. I DID record them. Here it is:

Brand: Dodge Ram
Model: Ram 3500
Year: 2014
Displacement: 6.7
*****
meta-info header:Error Codes
file version:2
type:5
time:1491313299364
name:Trouble Codes
codes:203F,0087,
codes_p:
codes_ff:

*****

raw07='4700<cr><cr>'
raw03='4302203F0087<cr><cr>'
=== Connection Context + ===
ConnectionContext
Adapter WIFI|"WiFi_OBDII"|-|ELM327V1.5
ConnectionState CONNECTED
Protocol 6:OBDII|A6|AUTO,ISO15765-4(CAN11/500)
ECUs 1|false
PIDs 981B0013:8003A001:C4CC004D:F8B9BB43
OBD -
VIN -
savedTime 04.04.17 09:41:03:693
ConnAtt -
protAtt null->0
warning WarningAdapter
UserContext
(make)|(model)|(vol.)|(year)
volumetricEfficiency volumetricEfficiency
volume -
diesel false
units -
comments
BaseContext
Pkg. OBDCD v.5.9.92 FireBase|true|com.android.vending
Phone samsung SM-N920V|Android 6.0.1

=== Connection Context - ===
=== System info ===
Phone:samsung SM-N920V
Android:6.0.1
preview 5.9.92 FireBase: 1 com.android.vending
=== Application settings ===
connection log
ATZ -> ATZ ELM327v1.5 ATD -> ATD OK ATH0 -> ATH0 OK ATE0 -> ATE0 OK ATST FF -> OK ATSP0 -> OK 0100 -> SEARCHING... 4100981B0013 0100 -> 4100981B0013 ATDPN -> A6 ATDP -> AUTO,ISO15765-4(CAN11/500) 03 -> 4302203F0087 07 -> 4700 0100 -> 4100981B0013 0900 -> 490054680000 0100 -> 4100981B0013 ATH1 -> OK 0100 ->

 

[RVTRKN]

Change the filters to Mopar anyway, at worst you spent a bit more money, and if it has the same issue, you can then finish off your stock of CAF's. It might also work in your favor to install an edge monitor where you can see if your in regen, that might have a bearing on whats happening. My C&C with the G56 has an opposite effect when in regen, its got a glitch when in regen. Instead of losing power, it surges with some power, and actually took my clutch out. Thats why I now run a SBC DDs 3250 dual disk clutch, to hold back the power when she takes off on me. The Edge monitor has a lot good info as well, and BTW install a EGT gage before the turbo to see the true EGT's
http://edgeproducts.com/products/insight-cts2-84130/

 

[Bob4x4]

At this point time to get the tools out and start doing some tests,have you had any contaminated fuel in the past?
EXTERNAL FUEL LEAKS

HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
INJECTOR LEAKAGE
IN TANK LIFT PUMP
FUEL PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE

 

[Newsa]

I don’t think you can determine it's not the rear water separator unless you switch back to OEM or Racor. Something inside could be shifting and intermittently and occasionally blocking flow.

 

[jacknife]

Put an Air dog filtration on and that may help