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Stuck front fuel filter cap

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It comes right back to being PLASTIC, give it every chance to come loose without stripping that PLASTIC nut off . Let's give everyone that reads this , this advice especially the newbies , if you are buying a socket get the 28mm , why mess with 1*1/8" when the better socket is 28mm.

Geno's was selling a 29mm for this back in 2015-16 time frame and I worked with them to get the correct 28mm listed and available.
 
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So is there any reason NOT to put light coat of vaseline on the cap threads ?? ;)

I wouldn't do that. Did that once on a water tank with plastic threads, the result was that it stuck even worse as I was able tighten it better/easier with the greased threads.

On my Gen3 I do it just "finger thight" because of the same problems.
That cap does not need to be torqued down. It won't loosen up by itself exactly because of its natural thread locking properties.

Jm2c
 
I've used motor oil on mine since 2000 and no problems. I still have a new 2nd gen filter canister cap I never needed. Just did the 45K mile service on my '17 5500 oiled all fuel filter and oil filter gaskets.
 
All I have ever done it put a drop or two of diesel fuel on the O-ring then put the cap back on, I always make sure the threads were clean, I have never had a problem getting the cap back off...
 
It is not the cap threads making it hard to turn, it is the compressed o-ring . Shocking or yanking will just damage things. As mentioned by others a slow and steady pull on the breaker bar or long handled rachet is the only way to get it off. Just did mine yesterday, applied steadily increasing pull for about half a minute to get it to move, then kept that pull on it slowly rotating for about another minute before the o-ring quit dragging making it hard to turn. This is typical for parts sealed with an o-ring , the bigger it is , the harder it is to get it to release. A lot of force quickly and/or briefly applied will just break parts. I put Parker O-ring lube on the o-ring, torque the cap to 21/22 ft.lbs. , it will come off next time just like it did last time.
 
It's been my experience the first oil filter and fuel filters change are the most difficult to remove. The factory really puts stuff on tight. None of the subsequent ones are nearly as hard to break loose, regardless of the amount of time between service.
 
It's been my experience the first oil filter and fuel filters change are the most difficult to remove. The factory really puts stuff on tight. None of the subsequent ones are nearly as hard to break loose, regardless of the amount of time between service.
AKA as the "RAM Gorilla" who installs oil filters, and his duties were expanded to front fuel filter at some point.

NO OEM oil filter has ever vibrated loose.
 
AKA as the "RAM Gorilla" who installs oil filters, and his duties were expanded to front fuel filter at some point.

NO OEM oil filter has ever vibrated loose.

I replaced the engine mounted Fleetguard Nano filter yesterday, thought I was going to destroy it removing it. The filter body is all plastic with a 22MM socket on the bottom. It was very restricted access and took a lot of careful torque to get it off. I looked at it once removed and plastic nut on bottom was starting to deform. Happily, it ended well, except International Navistar has brackets blocking removing from above, and it's a real stretch from the bottom. This filter is prefilled with fuel and has a plastic cap to prevent spilling unfiltered fuel into the engine side of the filter. I have quite a bit of back, neck, and shoulder pain doing this. Being old and disabled sux.
 
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