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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Stupid torque specs

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So, when maitaining my truck I'm pretty meticulous about torqueing things properly. Some might say too much so (I have steel wheels and use a torque wrench on the lugnuts). So, the service maunal says the oil drain plug is supposed to be torqued to 60 ft-lbs, I always thought that seemed really high, but looking at the crush seal design I figured it was probably correct. So, I was doing an oil-change on the truck today, running the plug back in and put the torque wrench on it, it didn't get to the proper torque and gave a little pop that just didn't feel good. Holy Cow, at about 20ft-lbs the flange broke clean off the drain plug. Had to call Dodge and luckily they had one in stock, $8 for the plug and another $8 for the seal. Well, now I'm gun-shy of breaking another one, so I only torqued it to 40 ft-lbs, that should hold a frikkin' drain plug in, huh? Those of you that still have a factory drain plug, what do you all do, hit it with the 60 ft-lbs, or just crank it nice and tight?
 
As with the drain plugs on every car or truck I've owned, I do nothing more than snug it with a short-handled 3/8" drive ratchet. I've never had a problem doing it that way.



Rusty
 
In my high school days i worked at valvoline. we never used a torque wrench for any thing... . long story short just use the 3/8 drive ratchet an hold it on the head turn it as tight as u can and u should be good. you are not trying to anchor anything to it, just hold in some oil... .
 
That spec was changed years ago. Those flanges on our oil plugs were breaking at 60 ft-lbs. They recommended lowering the torque to what your using or even lower, like 35 ft-lbs. Been using 35 ft-lbs. for years now with no problems.
 
Anything over 60 inch-pounds would likely be okay. I put in a Fumoto valve at the first change and it is still there. Didn't break!
 
I started just "snugging" with the ratchet at the first oil change, well before I read of the flange problem. The plug seems to tighten itself like an oil filter-- I have a 3 foot cheater pipe for removal of a "snugged" plug.....



I dont really need that much cheat, heck, 8" would do. I'm sure you notice the way that plug snaps loose. I cracked my elbow on the skidplate big time using just a 3/8 breaker once, not doing that again. Overkill cheater pipe gives great controll, and no injuries!
 
The "plug it right" drain plug from Geno's works good for me. (Torque spec 40 ft. lb. . )

I believe the correct torque spec for oem drain plug is 40 ft. lb. .
 
Well, I'm certainly not going to crank it to 60ft-lbs anymore. I asked the dealership just yesterday about the spec for that plug and was told 60. *shrug* My arm and a 3/8 rachet got it to 35 or so, that's gunna be good enough from now on. Thanks for the insight.
 
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