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Sudden p2262 code

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EGR/DPF Delete on '09 p4500 C&C

Regeneration

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This past Thursday my wife drops the pickup off at the dealer for an oil change. I get a call later that day stating that the engine was surging and would barely run. What the hell??

The truck was running perfectly when it was dropped off. As a matter of fact I used the truck on a 500 mile road trip the weekend before and the highway mileage was 20 mpg!

The tech was going to clean the turbo but the truck would not run enough for the cleaning process. I did hear the truck try to run and it sounded like the exhaust is plugged. The tech said that he temporarily removed the egr and the truck would idle a bit. Tomorrow he is going to split the exhaust open to see if the dpf is clogged.

Can a dpf be cleaned?

I put a new fuel filter on the truck two days prior to this event. I only started the truck and let it idle for maybe two minutes and all seemed well.

The tech also had been on the phone with corporate to get assistance.

I have a feeling this ones gonna hurt the wallet real bad.

If this a dpf problem how much is a new one?

Can you still find a back alley delete kit?

Suggestions... ...
 
I encountered the same type of surge/no power issue for several months. When it happened I turned off the ignition, counted to 10 and it restarted and ran just fine - for several months. Finally, one time when this happened the engine quit and the "check engine" light came on for about 5 seconds and then went off. I took it to my Dodge dealer and they said it "threw no code. " Hmmm. I then pulled a 14K pound horse trailer from central Washington State to central Oregon with no problems. While I was driving around Sisters, Oregon (w/o the trailer) the "check engine" light came on and stayed on. I have a "CarMD" device that I plugged into the OBD port and it threw code P2262. I then took the truck to a Dodge dealer in Bend, Oregon and they also got code P2262. They said they could not clean the turbo - it needed to be replaced. They charged $2K for the re-manufactured turbo and labor. Fortunately I had an extended warranty, so the repair only cost me the deductible of $100. I had not read about this problem in the TDR magazine, so I was surprised to have this problem at only 55K miles. My 2008 6. 7L Cummins pulls heavy loads about 90% of the time, so maybe this is a weakness of this engine configuration.
 
I had this issue in Nov 08 on my truck at 14K miles. The codes I had were P2262 and P0614 these are related to the turbo and not the DPF. My turbo was drilled and cleaned under the two following TSB 11-001-08 and 11-002-08 which I am sure have been up-dated to new TSB since Nov 08. I was told to run the exhaust brake 100% of the time to insure that the vanes do not soot up in the turbo, which I did before and still do now. Since I had the turbo drilled and cleaned I have had no further issues with my truck concerning the turbo.

The DPF cannot be cleaned if fully plugged but should still be warranted under the emission warranty I believe read your manual and see what is stated. Now as far as a new DPF I have seen people quote cost of $2500 and more new from a dealer.

Now you can still fine delete kits on the market just not advertized check out some other Cummins forum web sites for further information on them.

Jim W.
 
I have been running the exhaust brake 100% towing and at least 50% when unloaded. It should have been well exercised this summer.
 
I have been running the exhaust brake 100% towing and at least 50% when unloaded. It should have been well exercised this summer.

You should run the exhaust brake all of the time even when un-loaded. The VGT will still soot up and the vanes can become clogged with soot when not using the exhaust brake. I turn on the brake every time I drive the truck the exhaust brake is on 100% of the time and I am deleted. I am the only driver for my truck no one else drives the truck I can't even get the DW to drive when we are on the road and towing the 5er.

Jim W.
 
The Cummins engineers, at the CMEP rally in June, told me the new engines produce a lot less soot. That should help compared to the older engines that produced more soot and then used a trap to contain it.
 
My dealer called back today and told me that the truck needs a turbo... ... ... ... .
Jaw still on the floor from the price quote. I'm going to trailer it somewhere else for another opinion.
$2,790 - new
$2,135 - rebuilt

With not having dealt with a turbo before what are the options?
New?
Rebuilt?
Any idea of the the general ballpark cost of new or rebuilt or best place to source a stock replacement?

Is there a specific model number listed on the turbo?
Dodge part number?

Is it normal for a turbo to instantaneously go bad? Truck has had no CEL or even a hiccup in the past... ... .

Boy o Boy does my head hurt today.....
 
The turbo is electronically controlled, it will go bad when ever it decides to. Either controller or the sliding components decide to quit working for issues that are hard to define.

You could take a chance and buy one off of Ebay then swap your controller to it if the controller is still good. Otherwise, it is a new or rebuilt.
 
Crispyboy: As I mentioned above, I chose to have a rebuilt one installed rather than new. I could not see any reason why a new one would be better than a rebuilt one. The dealer told me that until recently your only option was "new. " But he said quite a few of these turbos have been going bad, so now the rebuilt ones are being sent to the dealers. This dealer in Bend, Oregon said they keep a couple of them in stock so customers can get them replaced THAT day. Oregon has no sales tax, so the cost of the rebuilt turbo and labor was right at $2K, so the quotes you received seem reasonable. Also as I mentioned above, my turbo gave me signs of going out for several months, but the on-board computer would NOT throw a code. Even after it did throw the code I could get it to run normally but it was probably just a matter of time until the engine quit and I had to get towed. When you are dealing with a diesel engine, an extended warranty usually pays for itself and more. I know it sure helped on my 1997 5. 9L dually. I had significant problems with that truck, but they were mainly caused by the Banks package I put on it. My current 2008 truck is TOTALLY stock.
 
So my next question is:
Can a shade-tree mechanic replace this turbo?
I'm certain there will be several codes but if I replaced the turbo myself would the truck run enough to get it to a shop to clear the codes or is there many other things the Star Scan computer must do to put it back in running order. I have access to getting the truck moved from my house to another shop. (I know it seems like a lot of screwing around but at this time in life the dealer quotes seemed to be an un-needed financial burden. Maybe in the future I can say "just fix it"). I spoke personally with the tech and he was very understanding and explained everything in detail. I would like to go back and throw him some lunch/dinner money for his patience in explaining everything to me.

Another question came to mind. I asked the tech if Chrysler every developed a preventive maintenance turbo cleaning procedure. He said that the computer will not let the process happen unless there are codes present that would allow the procedure to happen. There must be a way to develop this procedure since "deleting" is getting really tough to do. This will be an ongoing problem for stock trucks. I really had planned to just keep the truck stock and spend my money on good preventative maintenance. My wife and I talked about going back to a gas truck... ... .
 
Hey, I am no diesel mechanic so I can't tell you how complicated replacing the turbo is. The labor for replacement in my truck was $500 and it took them about 5 hours and while that is a lot of money, it takes care of a lot of problems that might come up if you tried to do it yourself. Diesels are just plain expensive, but they are worth it if you want to pull heavy stuff.
 
The 6. 7 turbo is a tight fit making it a bit tougher to change than any of the earlier 5. 9. s The engine pretty much has to be lifted a bit to remove it.
If that shade tree mechanic is good yes he can change it out,keep in mind the cooling system is also opened up and will need to be bled . Air in the cooling system is a major cause of egr cooler failure
 
Just like you I hate to pay someone for something I can do. This is not a terrible repair, but it can be frustrating if one of the nuts rounds off, or you bend the turbo oil drain line when you drop the turbo on it. Ask me how I know! It is a tight fit as Bob said, and without a lift it is just that much harder. If you can save a few bucks by buying the turbo elsewhere, and you are patient, go for it. The other thing you can try is remove the turbo actuator (the large rectangle block on the side of the turbo) and work it back and forth to break through some of the carbon build up. I have posted directions before you can follow, but if you do not follow them exactly you will be buying a turbo anyway. If it were mine I would give it a shot as you don't have much down side to it.
 
The other thing you can try is remove the turbo actuator (the large rectangle block on the side of the turbo) and work it back and forth to break through some of the carbon build up. I have posted directions before you can follow, but if you do not follow them exactly you will be buying a turbo anyway. If it were mine I would give it a shot as you don't have much down side to it.

See TDR Issue 77 page 39

Bill
 
I decided that this problem is much bigger than my capabilities. The truck did run enough to load it onto an equipment trailer and I hauled it to a local diesel specialty shop. When the truck ran the engine continually surged and smoked like a steam engine... ... . :{ The exhaust was separated just past the turbo.

I am awaiting their diagnosis today or Monday. It looked so pitiful broken down up the equipment trailer... ... :{
 
CRISPYBOY, After puffing around like a pregnant squaw about my lovely '08, your story about p2262

turbo issues took the wind out of my sails. I've been haunted since. Pulled out my '08 warranty

book and noticed on page 18, section 5. 1, stated parts covered 5 years or 50,000 miles under Federal Vehicle Emission Warranty. On the list were turbocharger, EGR system, injectors among

others. I don't know what your '09 covers. Mine is already past that coverage but rolls over to

Section 5. 2 for 8 years-80,000 miles for the Long-Term California Emission Warranty which includes emission stuff, including turbo, DPF,EGR, injectors and most everything else. Even the 67,000

mile EGR cleaning service is free. Somewhere in the TDR, I was reading about replacements for sooted and plugged up turbos under warranty for early '07. 5 and '08's. Some of the replacement

turbos had different part numbers for cleaning access ports and special anti stick coatings on the

vanes and such. I know mine doesn't have that stuff. Maybe that's why I am constantly trying to get the turbo to sling off the soot. I'd give a nickel to find out what remedy path you take.

I would rather see you a happy CTD camper than giving up towing ability with a gasser.

Although, if you cut your losses and trade in to a '13 or '14, might be a benefit. Check the C&C

and '13 guys thoughts about their SCR emission systems. I still think your situation is the

exception and not the rule. Again, the best of luck.



Tom
 
I changed the turbo on my '08, myself, in my garage. not a real hard job, but I had an issue with getting the controller set up just right. while the truck ran, it made only a little boost.
I took it to the dealer and had the tech "center" the controller with the old Star Scan.
I've put well over 100,000 miles on it since then.
Plus, I took my old turbo apart, cleaned it, reassembled it, and still have it. ( I'm guessing it works OK now)


good luck
 
Update - 10/11/13
The truck got a rebuilt turbo - installed for $1450.
Now we find that the dpf is essentially clogged up. The cost to clean the dpf is: $154. 13 to clean and a $85. 63 charge to open up and weld shut the case. If the dpf is really bad then it has to be baked in a special oven for $308. 25 plus the open/weld shut fee. I found new OEM dpf on line for $1300 plus shipping.

I thought about what to do with problem since my original plan is to keep the pickup for a few more years and my driving habits will not change. I am not interested in going to a gas truck right now - I have towed heavy loads with this diesel truck and I am always impressed in how it handles the load.

I have thought long and hard about the options I have decided to eliminate certain equipment on the truck.
I have decided to go with EFI live. I spoke with several of the companies who offer this service and with the person who writes the tunes to make sure they could give me what I want. EFI live comes with 3 custom tunes.
Specifically I am looking to keep the truck: (This is going to be a boring truck to most of you guys).
- near to stock form in power levels - I do not want unnecessary extra strain on head gaskets or drive train components.
- smoke free
- quiet
- reliable
- eliminate problem equipment

The diesel shop recommends an exhaust replacement - turbo to tail. I could have saved some money here with just a test pipe but under the recommendations of the shop the truck is getting a turbo to tailpipe 4", mandrel bent, stainless steel with resonator muffler. I stressed that I wanted the truck to be as quiet as the stock exhaust. We talked about the cost to remove/replace etc... it wasn't going to be a much difference when you figure in all the labor. I requested they be extremely careful in keeping the old system intact as possible in case I need to re-use it later.
So with the turbo repair, efi tune and exhaust I should have about $2550 in this fix... ... Didn't know this was going to be a such and expensive oil change... .....
It will take at least another week or so to get the vehicle back. I'll give a full report in how it is running.
 
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