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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Summit harness, where does the blue plug go?

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TDoumit said:
vic, where did you see the quantity at? i went back and looked but couldnt find it. im guessing i made it in time since they took my money :-laf



There is a Summit retail outlet a few miles from my house, so I ordered it in person and the clerk happened to mention there were 27 left and all of them were in the other warehouse in Ohio.



-Vic
 
TDoumit said:
thats what i figured :D did you have to lengthen the harness a bit ron?

mine made it running it across the radiator and dropping down to the headlights. Just to be sure I used wire loom and ziptied that :)
 
finally got around to installing this.

do yourself a favor before you attempt to put this harness in:



-lengthen the harness 18" near the passenger side (long end) plug. it is much easier to solder and heat shrink on the bench.

-run the harness under the radiator, there is another loom that is good to zip-tie to.

-push the plug up towards the headlight through the hole thats just the right size.

-if you have d-grease use that too.

-install your relays rear of the d/s battery top.

-6 or 7 wire ties, 18" loom and 3 self tapping scraws.

-you have a real clean install



note: i also removed both battery trays. cleaned the batteries and cleaned and treated the posts, lugs and clamps.
 
Just installed the kit on both trucks. The 3500 I ran over the radiator like Ron. Wire tied to the existing battery cable. I extended both ground wires to each battery neg terminal. On the 1500 I ran the harness just under the radiator support. Had both trucks done in under an hour. Simple plug and play. Don't have show trucks so I'm not concerned with the yellow sheath showing so no additional wire loom used.

Apparently, for those that missed the "deal" you can still get the harness from Summit on PN AMC-509104 for $29. 99. No picture shown but the description says the mfg is APC and the PN is the same as on the pkg I received.
 
i had to laugh at the instructions. they didnt do a very good job on their word usage. typical instruction translation problem. just like when buying cheap tools at the roving tool sales. :D



i only used the loom to cover the bare 18" that i extended. :)

i also used the stud where power comes into the relay/fuse block uner the hood for my power instead of putting more loops on the battery clamp.
 
hey guys im having the burning switch problem right now and couldnt find the part in summit. could someone post a link be for my headlights die. i already dont have a dome light or a cargo light.



The Fat Kid

Andy
 
I did mine last Friday. I ran the harness on top of the radiator next to the positive battery cable. The only wire I had to lengthen was the drivers side ground. I put the pass side ground down w/ the airbag's sensor ground.



Noticeably brighter lights. Great mod.
 
CarlJensen said:
I ran the harness over the top of the radiator with the relays bolted down with one of the radiator shield screws under the pass. side batt. Had JUST enough wire to make it. Tied off summit wire to existing run at top of radiator. Don't forget to use dielectric grease on assembly. I removed locking tabs for light plugs to make it easier to service and no problems with them coming off.



This one confused me for a while to, I had a nice nap under the truck while pondering it!! I finally was able to get the harness to reach (using the stock routing) by "robbing Peter to pay Paul". There is extra wire in the part of the harness that runs up to the blue connector. You can peel open this part of the harness which essentially moves the junction of the wires that that go over to the other headlight. Magic... it is now long enough! I



I also removed all the stock light wiring, and replaced the wiring loom with the next larger size so the new wire harness would fit inside. Finally, rewire-tied the loom into the stock holders. I had to go to the Dealer to buy a few christmas treed wire tires to replace those I broke before I figure out that if you just clip off the wire tie portion of the wire ties, there is a conveniet loop left that you can just run a new wire tie through. This is a neat trick to remember.



You would have to look real hard to see the harness installation.



Like others, I found it way easier (don't know how you could do it any other way) by taking out the batteries and battery tray's. It was a good time to clean and paint both the trays.



As I recall, the only thing not "plug and play" was the "hot" wire that needed to be tied to the battery and finding a good bolt to connect the ground to.
 
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ViperJay,



I was all set to remove the battery and battery trays too. I can't get my hand in there to turn the locking ring to remove the bulb.



You don't need to remove the bulb and locking ring. The power connector for the bulb pulls out all be itself. The locking ring and bulb is not disturbed. It's a little tricky to get the locking tab to release.



You save 60-90 minutes of work just by removing the connector to the bulb and pluging in the new harness.



At least this is how I did it on a '94
 
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I got the plugs off the back of the headilght bulbs also w/o removing the batteries. Just a little rocking back and forth to release the tab. Luckily I can also fit my hand to replace the bulbs with only a "few" scrapes.

I won't talk about the time I removed the right battery tray to replace the whole headlight. DUH! I thought the top inner fastener was a bolt but its just a push-in deal.

I have yet to use my 3500 after dark but there seems to be an improvement on my 1500.
 
So I installed my kit yesterday, I did extend the ground on the passenger side to connect to the battery and hooked the main part of the harness up on the passenger side. Started thinking it would be real easy to rewire the harness to activate both high and low on the high setting. I know there are quite a few kits out there to do this, but I was wondering if this would create to much heat in the headlight assembly itself? Any opinions?
 
With the Summit kit it would be a simple matter to install a diode to activate the low beam relay when the high beams are on. A Radio Shack Model: 276-1141 is 3amp and should work. Just have to confirm the correct phasing. I used similar diodes in the tail/brake light circuits of my MGB toad to prevent the tow vehicle voltage from back feeding the front parking lites / turn signals.
 
Isn't it nice to know that Dodge was able to save a few cents on the headlight switch and using small wires? BTW the headlight switch on my 56 Ford one-ton has never made a murmer while lighting heads, panel, and many extra clearance lights on the box.

david
 
So when I put he harness in I must have killed the element all the way in one and I had a low beam go out. Put in two new upgraded G&E bulbs tonight and now everything is screwy! When I turn my fog lights on the following things happen, high indicator comes on dimmly when on low, turn highs on and they won't go off, even in the park position they stay on untill you turn the fogs off.

Someone gave me some cool blue lights once and similar things happened untill I took them out, thought maybe they weren't 9004's. Now I know these are and having problems again!
 
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MRose,

I was just about to start a new thread because of this same problem. Like I posted earlier I installed 2 harnesses, one in my 96 1500 and one in my 01 3500. The setup in the 1500 works great and I think it is because the Pilot fog light setup is different than the stock setup.

This morning was the 1st opportunity to use the headlights & fog lights in the 3500. Previously I just tested the hi and low beams. I am getting the same symptoms. As you noticed, your hi beams are on with the fogs. I believe the reason is that the normal fog relay ground path is thru the high beam filament. With the new harness, the ground path is thru the relay causing it to activate and turning on the hi beams. That's my theory but I don't have my wiring schematics handy to check it out. I will try to pull the fog relay later to see what happens.



ON EDIT> Well, I just went out and pulled the fog relay to see what would happen. As expected, the fog lites did not come on and so the hi beams did not come on. All other light operation is normal. Reinstalled the relay and checked again. This time the fogs and hi beams worked as normal. Hmmmm. This is with the truck off so I surmised that the lower battery voltage was not enough to trigger the hi beam relay. I fired up the truck and sure enough, the hi beams are on with the fogs. I just need to figure out what to do for a remedy. I am thinking a resistor inline with the hi beam relay but will have to figure out a value to use. The best bet would be to remove the fog relay ground circuit from its current path. Will have to wait till I see the schematics.
 
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MRose & SBettencourt

Have your problems occurred after altering the Summit harness in an attempt to get the BriteBox® (lows on with highs) effect?
 
Hi Thomas,

No, I did not make any other mods aka Brite Box.

I think that the relays (the Summit one which takes the place of the actual hi beam filament and the fog relay) draw so little current that they are able to actuate in series or at about 7. 1 VDC. In normal operation, the fog light relay coil would ground thru the hi filament but the light can't glow because there is not enough current available from the circuit. As designed, when the high beam is actuated, the fogs turn off because 2 +'s cancel each other out at the fog lite relay coil.

When the electrical system is at battery voltage only (I'm guessing about 12. 6V because I did not check w/ a DVM) the lights work normally. When the charging system is at 14. 2 I see the abnormal behavior.
 
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