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Super-Glide 5th Wheel Hitch Concern.
- Thread starter MMerlino
- Start Date
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Requests for more detailed repair information
I have received more interest in this thread than I anticipated. I would like to keep it going to get this information to as many owners of these hitches as possible. I have even received telephone calls requesting additional information. I disassembled my hitch to obtain more detailed pictures on how to fix the “killer pin” concern. I am going to attempt to attach these pictures to this reply. If I am successful at uploading these pictures to this response I will explain the pictures further. I will monitor this thread and answer inquiries. However, please be patient as I maintain an extremely busy committed schedule. Below is my response to these requests:
Fireman (item 13 of this thread) evidently experienced the same pin breakage as I did. His idea of using the spring to temporally hold the slider in was good. When my pin came out in the middle of nowhere, I used vice-grips locked on the retaining plate to stop the horizontal sliding bar from moving out of the closed position. He also had a great idea for making it hard for someone to maliciously unlock the hitch. Fireman also stated “~Pull Rite has a few small deficiencies, but I still like them better than any other on the market. ” I agree with him for the Super-Glide. This is an active (does not require any driver intervention) hitch designed for short bed pick-ups towing 5th wheel trailers. It works great both going forward and in reverse (when backing into tight camp sites). I would submit that it has probably saved me the embarrassment and cost of my 5th trailer hitting the cab of my truck. My concern is the assembly of the pin on the horizontal sliding bar (where the handle attaches) and Pullrite’s reluctance to recall this item. After having the pin on my hitch detach I would be remiss to utilize my hitch without strengthening the weld on the pin. I don’t even want to think about how I would feel if knowing about the propensity of this pin to come off; I didn’t strengthen the pin and my trailer came off on a busy highway and hurt someone – or worse…
Boondocker (item 9 of this thread) mentioned the attaching spring clips. I have never thought much of them on machinery (other than kids wagon wheels). I recommend drilling a 3/32nd hole at the end of the associated hitch pins and insert a thrust washer followed by a cotter pin. This makes a more secure assembly and is so much easier to disassemble should you choose to work on your hitch. Once again I state I am not an engineer – just some poor slob who thinks this is a better way to go.
I can’t overemphasize enough what I perceive to be a serious safety concern of the pin on the horizontal sliding bar catastrophically failing (tac weld failing and coming apart). Boondocker, mentioned above, indicated he would check his weld. I think by his response that he realized the seriousness of this pin issue and is justifiableally concerned. However, unless you can X-ray the weld there is no way to verify you won’t have an inferior tac weld as Fireman and I experienced. My tac weld looked very pretty on the outside – there just was no penetration on to the horizontal sliding bar. Therefore, the only recommendation I have is to disassemble the hitch and weld completely around the pin. If you can weld it is easy to do. If you cannot weld, it is easy to disassemble the hitch and take the horizontal sliding bar to a welder. (Cheap insurance for what could possibly be a disaster. ) I also did the backside and ground it smooth to the preexisting surface level. I penetrated each side with at least 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep of 6011 welding rod.
I have received more interest in this thread than I anticipated. I would like to keep it going to get this information to as many owners of these hitches as possible. I have even received telephone calls requesting additional information. I disassembled my hitch to obtain more detailed pictures on how to fix the “killer pin” concern. I am going to attempt to attach these pictures to this reply. If I am successful at uploading these pictures to this response I will explain the pictures further. I will monitor this thread and answer inquiries. However, please be patient as I maintain an extremely busy committed schedule. Below is my response to these requests:
Fireman (item 13 of this thread) evidently experienced the same pin breakage as I did. His idea of using the spring to temporally hold the slider in was good. When my pin came out in the middle of nowhere, I used vice-grips locked on the retaining plate to stop the horizontal sliding bar from moving out of the closed position. He also had a great idea for making it hard for someone to maliciously unlock the hitch. Fireman also stated “~Pull Rite has a few small deficiencies, but I still like them better than any other on the market. ” I agree with him for the Super-Glide. This is an active (does not require any driver intervention) hitch designed for short bed pick-ups towing 5th wheel trailers. It works great both going forward and in reverse (when backing into tight camp sites). I would submit that it has probably saved me the embarrassment and cost of my 5th trailer hitting the cab of my truck. My concern is the assembly of the pin on the horizontal sliding bar (where the handle attaches) and Pullrite’s reluctance to recall this item. After having the pin on my hitch detach I would be remiss to utilize my hitch without strengthening the weld on the pin. I don’t even want to think about how I would feel if knowing about the propensity of this pin to come off; I didn’t strengthen the pin and my trailer came off on a busy highway and hurt someone – or worse…
Boondocker (item 9 of this thread) mentioned the attaching spring clips. I have never thought much of them on machinery (other than kids wagon wheels). I recommend drilling a 3/32nd hole at the end of the associated hitch pins and insert a thrust washer followed by a cotter pin. This makes a more secure assembly and is so much easier to disassemble should you choose to work on your hitch. Once again I state I am not an engineer – just some poor slob who thinks this is a better way to go.
I can’t overemphasize enough what I perceive to be a serious safety concern of the pin on the horizontal sliding bar catastrophically failing (tac weld failing and coming apart). Boondocker, mentioned above, indicated he would check his weld. I think by his response that he realized the seriousness of this pin issue and is justifiableally concerned. However, unless you can X-ray the weld there is no way to verify you won’t have an inferior tac weld as Fireman and I experienced. My tac weld looked very pretty on the outside – there just was no penetration on to the horizontal sliding bar. Therefore, the only recommendation I have is to disassemble the hitch and weld completely around the pin. If you can weld it is easy to do. If you cannot weld, it is easy to disassemble the hitch and take the horizontal sliding bar to a welder. (Cheap insurance for what could possibly be a disaster. ) I also did the backside and ground it smooth to the preexisting surface level. I penetrated each side with at least 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep of 6011 welding rod.
Picture 1
This picture gives the reader a better concept of what could happen should the pin on the horizontal slider bar break. For reference I inserted the cotter pins at the end of the horizontal slider bar and the fixed pin for the retaining plate (shown under the handle). I think drilling a hole and using a cotter pin with a flat thrust washer is preferable to the spring locking washer. Notice the 360-degree weld around the pin on the horizontal slider bar. This is the pin that is only tac welded. Imagine what would happen should this pin detach: The only restraint for the horizontal slider bar is the spring keeping pressure on the handle. The other fail- safe is the small triangular flat-stock piece that restrains the handle by gravity from sliding out is the spring were to break. This is a good redundant mechanical method for keeping the handle in the closed position. However, if the pin attaching the handle to the horizontal sliding bar comes out you have no restraint (either spring or the triangular flat-stock piece) of the horizontal slider bar. It can easily slide open when there is no tension against the circular locking bar. However, as Fireman stated (item 13 or this thread), when there is tension against the circular locking bar the horizontal slider bar will not move. To this I agree. But I would submit to you, if you were towing in mountains where you must pull the trailer up hills and break to negotiate hairpin turns, you then enter the arena whereby the truck is pulling the trailer under acceleration and the trailer is pushing the truck under deceleration. In the transition between the two states of pulling / pushing is where the horizontal sliding bar (with a failed pin) could possibly be pushed to the opened position, especially when negotiating a right turn or a series of right turns - ever so slightly opening the horizontal sliding bar a little each time. Once the circular locking bar is pushed over center you can kiss your trailer goodbye! Fireman has stated that the same mechanism is used it all Pullrite 5th wheel hitches. At the onset of my posting this thread I was only concerned with the Super Glide model for short bed pick-ups. After thinking about what Fireman has stated with the hitch mechanisms all being the same, I would think that the fixed hitch models would be even more susceptible to having a catastrophic failure if the pin were to break. My reasoning is that on fixed models the entire mechanism remains in one position and would be more susceptible to inadvertent movement of the circular locking bar during the aforementioned acceleration and deceleration while negotiating mountain turns (the Super Glide mechanism is turning (to a degree) with the trailer - thus negating some of the turning force on the circular locking bar. Just a thought…
Picture 2
This picture shows the horizontal slider bar in the open position. This bar, controlled by the handle, opens and closes the circular locking bar (holding the hitch to the trailer's king pin). Should the pin on the horizontal sliding bar break off there is nothing to prevent the bar from moving to the open position except the pressure of the trailers king pin under tension with the circular locking bar. As previously stated under acceleration and deceleration the tension the trailer's king pin exerts goes back and forth. Refer to Murphy's Law…
Picture 3
This picture shows the hitch mechanism with the handle attached to the pin of the horizontal sliding bar. The retaining plate is on and the hitch mechanism is ready to go. Note the pre-mentioned cotter pins versus the spring lock clips. Also you can see some of the 360 degree welding of the pin underneath the portion of the handle mating to the vulnerable horizontal sliding bar pin.
Picture 4
This picture shows a pair of six inch vice grips attached to the cover plate of the horizontal sliding bar. The picture has the handle attached to the pin. Should the pin come out (as mine and Fireman's did) the vice grips would prevent the horizontal sliding bar from opening. This would get you home in an emergency. The fallacy of this is that you must be aware the pin has detached. You would not be aware if the horizontal sliding bar pin had a catastrophic failure and came out while you were driving! The fix is just too easy to risk it…
P. S. Note:
If you can see on some of my pictures I am using slip-plate paint instead of white grease on the sliding tube mechanism. This was approved by Pullrite as an alterantive to white grease. It works great and is a much cleaner operation and overall less maintenance.
This picture gives the reader a better concept of what could happen should the pin on the horizontal slider bar break. For reference I inserted the cotter pins at the end of the horizontal slider bar and the fixed pin for the retaining plate (shown under the handle). I think drilling a hole and using a cotter pin with a flat thrust washer is preferable to the spring locking washer. Notice the 360-degree weld around the pin on the horizontal slider bar. This is the pin that is only tac welded. Imagine what would happen should this pin detach: The only restraint for the horizontal slider bar is the spring keeping pressure on the handle. The other fail- safe is the small triangular flat-stock piece that restrains the handle by gravity from sliding out is the spring were to break. This is a good redundant mechanical method for keeping the handle in the closed position. However, if the pin attaching the handle to the horizontal sliding bar comes out you have no restraint (either spring or the triangular flat-stock piece) of the horizontal slider bar. It can easily slide open when there is no tension against the circular locking bar. However, as Fireman stated (item 13 or this thread), when there is tension against the circular locking bar the horizontal slider bar will not move. To this I agree. But I would submit to you, if you were towing in mountains where you must pull the trailer up hills and break to negotiate hairpin turns, you then enter the arena whereby the truck is pulling the trailer under acceleration and the trailer is pushing the truck under deceleration. In the transition between the two states of pulling / pushing is where the horizontal sliding bar (with a failed pin) could possibly be pushed to the opened position, especially when negotiating a right turn or a series of right turns - ever so slightly opening the horizontal sliding bar a little each time. Once the circular locking bar is pushed over center you can kiss your trailer goodbye! Fireman has stated that the same mechanism is used it all Pullrite 5th wheel hitches. At the onset of my posting this thread I was only concerned with the Super Glide model for short bed pick-ups. After thinking about what Fireman has stated with the hitch mechanisms all being the same, I would think that the fixed hitch models would be even more susceptible to having a catastrophic failure if the pin were to break. My reasoning is that on fixed models the entire mechanism remains in one position and would be more susceptible to inadvertent movement of the circular locking bar during the aforementioned acceleration and deceleration while negotiating mountain turns (the Super Glide mechanism is turning (to a degree) with the trailer - thus negating some of the turning force on the circular locking bar. Just a thought…
Picture 2
This picture shows the horizontal slider bar in the open position. This bar, controlled by the handle, opens and closes the circular locking bar (holding the hitch to the trailer's king pin). Should the pin on the horizontal sliding bar break off there is nothing to prevent the bar from moving to the open position except the pressure of the trailers king pin under tension with the circular locking bar. As previously stated under acceleration and deceleration the tension the trailer's king pin exerts goes back and forth. Refer to Murphy's Law…
Picture 3
This picture shows the hitch mechanism with the handle attached to the pin of the horizontal sliding bar. The retaining plate is on and the hitch mechanism is ready to go. Note the pre-mentioned cotter pins versus the spring lock clips. Also you can see some of the 360 degree welding of the pin underneath the portion of the handle mating to the vulnerable horizontal sliding bar pin.
Picture 4
This picture shows a pair of six inch vice grips attached to the cover plate of the horizontal sliding bar. The picture has the handle attached to the pin. Should the pin come out (as mine and Fireman's did) the vice grips would prevent the horizontal sliding bar from opening. This would get you home in an emergency. The fallacy of this is that you must be aware the pin has detached. You would not be aware if the horizontal sliding bar pin had a catastrophic failure and came out while you were driving! The fix is just too easy to risk it…
P. S. Note:
If you can see on some of my pictures I am using slip-plate paint instead of white grease on the sliding tube mechanism. This was approved by Pullrite as an alterantive to white grease. It works great and is a much cleaner operation and overall less maintenance.
Here are some pics of mine. The hitch was just over 4 yrs old when I started having problems.
Click images to enlarge
#ad
Here is the pin on the lock bar after rewelding. When it broke it looked just like yours, one spot weld with no penetration.
#ad
The pin that held the other end of the mainspring was failing also. It was welded just like the other, in one spot. the cause of this failure was the lock bar slamming into it under spring pressure every time the hitch was closed. You can't see it in these pics, but the lock bar has an indention where it has slammed into the pin repeatedly.
#ad
This is the pin on the lock catch, it was the first failure of a weld I had. No real safety issue here, except maybe pinched fingers. Without that spring the jaws will not stay open, so to unhitch I had to pull the handle and hold it while reaching under the plate and manually pushing the lock catch into place.
#ad
This is the latest design, a groove cut around the pin with a hairpin cotter. I like the hole through the pin better. Also notice they still have the push nut on the other pin.
#ad
Click images to enlarge
#adHere is the pin on the lock bar after rewelding. When it broke it looked just like yours, one spot weld with no penetration.
#adThe pin that held the other end of the mainspring was failing also. It was welded just like the other, in one spot. the cause of this failure was the lock bar slamming into it under spring pressure every time the hitch was closed. You can't see it in these pics, but the lock bar has an indention where it has slammed into the pin repeatedly.
#adThis is the pin on the lock catch, it was the first failure of a weld I had. No real safety issue here, except maybe pinched fingers. Without that spring the jaws will not stay open, so to unhitch I had to pull the handle and hold it while reaching under the plate and manually pushing the lock catch into place.
#adThis is the latest design, a groove cut around the pin with a hairpin cotter. I like the hole through the pin better. Also notice they still have the push nut on the other pin.
#ad
Last edited by a moderator:
Actually, I talked to PullRite yesterday and sent a link to this thread.
I tried to talk to Lynda (the owners daughter) as she has been so helpful and receptive to input in the past, but obviously PullRite has been really growing and is much larger of an operation than it was 6 or 7 yrs ago. Lynda is no longer in Customer Service. I did however talk to Linda (with an i
) and explained the problem and thought it should be passed on to production or quality control and addressed. I also told her a little about the TDR and the size of the membership and this was shedding some negative light on an otherwise great product. Then ended by telling her that if there was anything the company wanted to comment on concerning this issue, she could e-mail me back and I would happily post any reply or statement they wanted to make. No word yet.
Thanks very much for the kudos and your support in getting this out and bring attention to this issue. I have in fact contacted Pullrite when this first happened and sent pictures. In fact I conversed with Lynda both over the telephone and email (pictures sent). Their take is that the hitch mechanism would not open. My response to them is that I thought they were betting their company on it. Like Fireman I think that Pullrite is a good company and has some great ideas. There isn't another passive slider on the market that I am aware of. They also sent me a flyer on "Slip-Plate", a paint that contains graphite and works as well as the white grease that is such a pain in the neck to maintain. They recommend the spray can version - I chose the brush on version so I didn't make a mess. With that said I am disappointed they don't take this with the seriousness that I do. I am not an engineer but I am retired from 24 years of working on aircraft and now manage maintenance work in a large (473,000 sq ft floor space) plant that has three levels of processing machinery. I did, unsuccessfully, when talking with Lynda and subsequently sending a letter to the company owner, offer my services to consult with Pullrite to better their existing hitch. After seeing the newly manufactured hitches are still produced with the same defect I felt obliged to offer information to my fellow TDR members - as a majority of us tow RVs with the greatest diesel pick-up truck on the road. I noticed below (just below where the quick reply box is) that someone has picked up on this thread and referenced it back to a NU WA site. That is great. Perhaps more owners will become aware and take the simple steps to "beef-up" the horizontal sliding bar pin. Speaking of that - Grizzly does you hitch have the same pin and did you strengthen it? You have that beautiful new Arctic Fox behind you... I don't know about you guys but only my laundry man would know how I felt if I lost my prized fifth-wheel or for that matter was following one that came detached...
I appreciate everyone who has assisted by submitting replies and kept this thread going.
From some little guy out there trying to call attention to and correct a problem, which in my opinion affects everyone driving on the road- THANK YOU ALL
I appreciate everyone who has assisted by submitting replies and kept this thread going.
From some little guy out there trying to call attention to and correct a problem, which in my opinion affects everyone driving on the road- THANK YOU ALL
I got a cheapy Reese; it might be low class, but it has positive engagement. The latch is spring loaded and doesn't "twist" into the locked position, it simply goes across the opening.
It comes with a "hole" and the corresponding padlock to secure the handle to prevent "unwanted" disengagement. Not sure if the pin in the handle would cause an issue if it was removed because the spring still keeps the latch shut...
If I was home, I'd take a picture. I like the Reese... strong and simple.
steved
It comes with a "hole" and the corresponding padlock to secure the handle to prevent "unwanted" disengagement. Not sure if the pin in the handle would cause an issue if it was removed because the spring still keeps the latch shut...
If I was home, I'd take a picture. I like the Reese... strong and simple.
steved
HBellmyer
TDR MEMBER
Retaining Clips
I had a problem this past summer on a trip to the mountains when un-hooking I noticed something wrong. Upon inspecting the hitch I found thet one of the spring clips was missing. Well I looked in all the area automotivs parts stores and could not find any clips. I then stopped at a local marina and found some retainers with set screws that worked. This winter I plan on welding all pins 360 degrees and drilling and putting cotter pins in place of the retaining clips. Here is a picture of the retaining ring that I used to get me home safely. I hope the pictures went thru.
View attachment 66435
View attachment 66436
View attachment 66437
2005 CTD 4X4 6sp SB, Volant cold air, MBRP exhaust, Isspro gages, Air Lift bags, Rino lining, Super Glide hitch
I had a problem this past summer on a trip to the mountains when un-hooking I noticed something wrong. Upon inspecting the hitch I found thet one of the spring clips was missing. Well I looked in all the area automotivs parts stores and could not find any clips. I then stopped at a local marina and found some retainers with set screws that worked. This winter I plan on welding all pins 360 degrees and drilling and putting cotter pins in place of the retaining clips. Here is a picture of the retaining ring that I used to get me home safely. I hope the pictures went thru.
View attachment 66435
View attachment 66436
View attachment 66437
2005 CTD 4X4 6sp SB, Volant cold air, MBRP exhaust, Isspro gages, Air Lift bags, Rino lining, Super Glide hitch
I got an unsolicited email from a non-member reading the forums regarding the SG Hitch last night... I'm just going to cut and paste it here verbatim... it seems I was the only one whose email he could get (its part of my signature)...
-QUOTED FROM EMAIL-
Hi I dont want to a memeber to post some quick info regarding the question about the superglide 5th wheel and was hoping you could pass some quick info, cause your email was the only one i could find on a post. This is in regards to HBellmyer question, I have worked for the company since I was in high school and the past 3 summers while in college.
The clip you are trying to replace is called a Push Nut and it measures 3/8". I should know Ive built hundreds of these hitches in my time there and have assemebly well over that many head units. The current design has also been changed which has changed the push nut that holds on the handle to the pin,. Instead of a push nut they now use a small hitch pin clip and a grove have been made in the pin to hold it in place
You can post this if you would like but I figured Id put in my knowledge.
-END QUOTED EMAIL-
So take this for what its worth (unsolicited email)...
steved
-QUOTED FROM EMAIL-
Hi I dont want to a memeber to post some quick info regarding the question about the superglide 5th wheel and was hoping you could pass some quick info, cause your email was the only one i could find on a post. This is in regards to HBellmyer question, I have worked for the company since I was in high school and the past 3 summers while in college.
The clip you are trying to replace is called a Push Nut and it measures 3/8". I should know Ive built hundreds of these hitches in my time there and have assemebly well over that many head units. The current design has also been changed which has changed the push nut that holds on the handle to the pin,. Instead of a push nut they now use a small hitch pin clip and a grove have been made in the pin to hold it in place
You can post this if you would like but I figured Id put in my knowledge.
-END QUOTED EMAIL-
So take this for what its worth (unsolicited email)...
steved
Steved,
Thanks for the post from the email you received. It sounds like the gentleman is proud of his work at Pullrite - as well he should be. As I have said all along the hitch is basically well made and the only one I know of that has passive movement when you turn tight corners. All in all when you look at the engineering of the hitch it is very good. Topping that, is that whenever I have contacted Pullrite for customer service I have been treated well and more than satisfied. Now the bad part: Yes I have seen the new pin referenced in the email you received. However, - yes the push nuts are not reliable but the safety concern I am referencing is the other end (from where the push nut holds the handle on) of the pin. This end of the pin is secured to the horizontal sliding gear, through a hole in the sliding gear with a tac weld on both sides. The tac weld is not penetrating the steel of the sliding gear. Reference my picture number 4 at the start of this thread. Also, Fireman's post (number 24 of this thread) shows pictures of the same failure as I had. Fireman also had failure of the pin holding the other end of the handle spring. He welded this pin 360 degrees to fix it. I am working on an idea for bumpers to protect this pin. Once I figure it out and do it I will post a solution picture and explanation to this thread. In the mean-time I strongly recommend out members fix the handle retention pin as stated in this thread. It is an easy fix for those of us you can weld even a little bit. Otherwise for probably $20 a guy could carry the piece into a welding shop and have it done.
I am hoping, through various posts, to keep this thread alive out there in TDR land for awhile so all our members who tow and use the Pullrite fifth wheel hitch - be it Super Glide or a fixed model - will be made aware of the disaster they could possibly face. If any of you have experienced this failure or need information please post to this thread and I will do my best to get a timely answer to you via this thread.
Thanks for the post from the email you received. It sounds like the gentleman is proud of his work at Pullrite - as well he should be. As I have said all along the hitch is basically well made and the only one I know of that has passive movement when you turn tight corners. All in all when you look at the engineering of the hitch it is very good. Topping that, is that whenever I have contacted Pullrite for customer service I have been treated well and more than satisfied. Now the bad part: Yes I have seen the new pin referenced in the email you received. However, - yes the push nuts are not reliable but the safety concern I am referencing is the other end (from where the push nut holds the handle on) of the pin. This end of the pin is secured to the horizontal sliding gear, through a hole in the sliding gear with a tac weld on both sides. The tac weld is not penetrating the steel of the sliding gear. Reference my picture number 4 at the start of this thread. Also, Fireman's post (number 24 of this thread) shows pictures of the same failure as I had. Fireman also had failure of the pin holding the other end of the handle spring. He welded this pin 360 degrees to fix it. I am working on an idea for bumpers to protect this pin. Once I figure it out and do it I will post a solution picture and explanation to this thread. In the mean-time I strongly recommend out members fix the handle retention pin as stated in this thread. It is an easy fix for those of us you can weld even a little bit. Otherwise for probably $20 a guy could carry the piece into a welding shop and have it done.
I am hoping, through various posts, to keep this thread alive out there in TDR land for awhile so all our members who tow and use the Pullrite fifth wheel hitch - be it Super Glide or a fixed model - will be made aware of the disaster they could possibly face. If any of you have experienced this failure or need information please post to this thread and I will do my best to get a timely answer to you via this thread.
That's the same one I have. It's like you said, they are cheap-simple-strong.
I don't have to worry about it.
Superdawg
TDR MEMBER
MMerlino,
I finally took apart my superglide 18k. The pin you referenced as being tack welded was only welded on the flush side, then ground smooth. I did not have the tack weld on the handle side that you did. I did have it welded 360 degrees on the handle side and feel much better now. I also bought stainless cotter pins and replacement push washers.
Slip plate lube (graphite spray) is great on those slider hitches.
Tom
I finally took apart my superglide 18k. The pin you referenced as being tack welded was only welded on the flush side, then ground smooth. I did not have the tack weld on the handle side that you did. I did have it welded 360 degrees on the handle side and feel much better now. I also bought stainless cotter pins and replacement push washers.
Slip plate lube (graphite spray) is great on those slider hitches.
Tom
Wow, fantastic thread everyone. I am just upgraded to a Megacab and was looking at getting an auto-slider. Kudos to everyone for their exacting work on exposing these potentially fatal flaws and the fixes needed to correct them.
On that note, if anyone is selling their Pullright hitch I AM still interested in acquiring one. I believe the product is sound and I have no problem with welding a few pins and installing some cotter pins.
Feel free to PM me if you are selling your hitch.
Cheers,
Chris
Whitehorse, Yukon
On that note, if anyone is selling their Pullright hitch I AM still interested in acquiring one. I believe the product is sound and I have no problem with welding a few pins and installing some cotter pins.
Feel free to PM me if you are selling your hitch.
Cheers,
Chris
Whitehorse, Yukon
Well I just took delivery on a new 14K Super Glide and it uses the push nut so maybe they changed back again. Actually that doesn't bother me much, I see those in use everyday at work however the tiny tack weld on the pin mentioned is pretty lame when you consider its always getting slammed by the lever. Now if its welded good on the back side where I have not inspected yet then I would feel better.
Shouldn't this hitch pivot side to side as easily as it does front to back? I am wondering if that large bolt on the side to side pivot is cranked down too tight??
Last edited:
Matt 400
I wondered the same for the side to side play. However, I purposely watched the hitch while backing into an uneven campground space and the weight of the trailer had no problem forcing side to side movement of the hitch. In fact I suspect that if there was any less friction the hitch could bang with minor side to side movements experienced with normal driving.
Regarding the pin backside weld. As you can see in the first pictures there is little if any penetration and then the surface weld is ground flat to enable the mechanism to slide. I strongly encourage you to weld the pin as described above. Mostly it will ensure the safety factor of loosing your trailer while towing it and possibly hurting someone and it will help ease your mind while towing.
I have developed a fix for the other pin that the slider bangs into. I have to get pictures and will post within the next month (hopefully).
I ask anyone reading this to add to this post. This will keep it current for other of our TDR members who own the Pullrite Superglide hitches and may not be aware of the potential fatal flaw.
Thanks,
MM
I wondered the same for the side to side play. However, I purposely watched the hitch while backing into an uneven campground space and the weight of the trailer had no problem forcing side to side movement of the hitch. In fact I suspect that if there was any less friction the hitch could bang with minor side to side movements experienced with normal driving.
Regarding the pin backside weld. As you can see in the first pictures there is little if any penetration and then the surface weld is ground flat to enable the mechanism to slide. I strongly encourage you to weld the pin as described above. Mostly it will ensure the safety factor of loosing your trailer while towing it and possibly hurting someone and it will help ease your mind while towing.
I have developed a fix for the other pin that the slider bangs into. I have to get pictures and will post within the next month (hopefully).
I ask anyone reading this to add to this post. This will keep it current for other of our TDR members who own the Pullrite Superglide hitches and may not be aware of the potential fatal flaw.
Thanks,
MM
I thought this was the pin in question? I must have missed something.
As for that large pivot bolt. . I think mine was too tight. I called Pullrite and they said you should be able to move it but with some force, I couldn't move mine at all. It is spring loaded to keep it level too.
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The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
