Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I recently found a cracked rubber bushing on the front sway bar end link and figured I should look at all the remaining sway bar components. From there it went down hill. 
I highly recommend that anyone owning a truck with 80k or more miles perform an inspection of the stock components (that I replaced) on their trucks.
I hope this is helpful to our other "Cummins, with a Dodge wrapped around it" owners.
Here's how the removal / installation went: Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. Also, as always a good slathering of old rusty nuts and bolts with your favorite penetrating oil is in order.
I'll begin with the front.
Unbolt the bottom links from the axle, 2# dead blow hammer (or one BFH of choice) a few whacks at the bolt and "pop". Then, remove the bar mounts at the frame and remove from the chassis. ***Note: If you have a DSS type steering stabilizer / steering box sector shaft stabilizer this "remove the bar from the chassis" is a bit more challenging. The method I used: remove end links from bar, remove one side bar mount bracket reinstall bolts (so as not to allow the DSS, or like, to move) then remove the other side and reinstall bolts. Finagle the bar around so it can be slid out. What worked for me was: slide to the left as you turn the end down, twist it all the way to the front and slide it right, then as you turn it back slide forward, it was fun figuring this one out . . . Oh, don't forget to wire wheel and remove remnants of rubber and rust from the bar and mating surfaces. Installation is as described in the instructions contained with the Maxx kit. As for the bar mounts it's pretty straight forward and reverse of the removal wether or not you have the steering stabilizer or not. With the following exception, the after-market, in my case Energy Suspension bar mount/busing kit, bracket bolt holes didn't exactly line up. I threaded the front bolt 1/2 way into the hole, placed a big adjustable wrench on the sides of the mount on the rear and finessed alignment of the hole, threaded in the bolt and tightened.
Now for the rear.
Remove bolts at the top of the link. Sounds easy enough, but . . . once the nut is off on the left side the bolt can't be removed as the fuel tank prevents is "right there"! So, a reciprocating saw, a Milwaukee "Torch" blade and a pair of vise grips to hold the bolt from spinning as you cut, made quick work (about a minute) and the bolt was able to be pushed thru away from the tank. "Caution", remember our tanks are plastic and bolt needs to be cut right between the tank and frame. I put the vise grips on the bolt head to help prevent the blade from contacting the tank - and it actually worked!!! Then remove the bar brackets and bushings, slide the bar out of the chassis to the rear. Installation is just as with above, reverse of removal, of course minus the need for the reciprocating saw.
I think I pretty much covered everything?
Talk about bang for buck, it's like a new truck! Many of the characteristics I've become accustomed to/didn't realize were there before are gone! Such as: body lean/dive/roll when turning a curve at speed, instant roll when turning into a slow sharp turn, harsh feedback when going over washboard roads, slight wander over uneven pavement and general ride quality = used to be bouncy. The new components have provided an almost sports car handling with a smoothness I didn't know could exist in my old 180k+ truck. So much so this new quality has supported my decision to keep her till the end, and possibly locate and install one of the old classic Chrysler luxury car hood ornaments on my new "land yacht".
Although I consider the Maxx links a tad pricey: front $89. 50 / rear $149. 50, I feel you get what you pay for, and with the quality of the Maxx products I expect many years and miles of service. Also, they are serviceable as replacement bushings (top and bottom) can now be obtained, unlike the stock units. I still wonder why Maxx hasn't developed sway bar mount bushings for the front and rear bars? If Maxx had these components available it surely would have made sense to go with all Maxx products. Maxx could even put together a complete kit for front & rear sway bars: grease-able mount bushings, and the already available link kits, this could all be accomplished for a reasonable price to we owners - like around $300. 00 - "Hint, Hint - are you listening Maxx"?
In closing, two things:
1- I wish I would have done this years ago and
2- I wish Maxx would create a complete "kit" for front, rear, and then a combination front/rear kit for our trucks and offer a group purchase to we TDR Members.
"Hello Maxx, do you hear me/us??":-laf
I highly recommend that anyone owning a truck with 80k or more miles perform an inspection of the stock components (that I replaced) on their trucks.
I hope this is helpful to our other "Cummins, with a Dodge wrapped around it" owners.
Here's how the removal / installation went: Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. Also, as always a good slathering of old rusty nuts and bolts with your favorite penetrating oil is in order.
I'll begin with the front.
Unbolt the bottom links from the axle, 2# dead blow hammer (or one BFH of choice) a few whacks at the bolt and "pop". Then, remove the bar mounts at the frame and remove from the chassis. ***Note: If you have a DSS type steering stabilizer / steering box sector shaft stabilizer this "remove the bar from the chassis" is a bit more challenging. The method I used: remove end links from bar, remove one side bar mount bracket reinstall bolts (so as not to allow the DSS, or like, to move) then remove the other side and reinstall bolts. Finagle the bar around so it can be slid out. What worked for me was: slide to the left as you turn the end down, twist it all the way to the front and slide it right, then as you turn it back slide forward, it was fun figuring this one out . . . Oh, don't forget to wire wheel and remove remnants of rubber and rust from the bar and mating surfaces. Installation is as described in the instructions contained with the Maxx kit. As for the bar mounts it's pretty straight forward and reverse of the removal wether or not you have the steering stabilizer or not. With the following exception, the after-market, in my case Energy Suspension bar mount/busing kit, bracket bolt holes didn't exactly line up. I threaded the front bolt 1/2 way into the hole, placed a big adjustable wrench on the sides of the mount on the rear and finessed alignment of the hole, threaded in the bolt and tightened.
Now for the rear.
Remove bolts at the top of the link. Sounds easy enough, but . . . once the nut is off on the left side the bolt can't be removed as the fuel tank prevents is "right there"! So, a reciprocating saw, a Milwaukee "Torch" blade and a pair of vise grips to hold the bolt from spinning as you cut, made quick work (about a minute) and the bolt was able to be pushed thru away from the tank. "Caution", remember our tanks are plastic and bolt needs to be cut right between the tank and frame. I put the vise grips on the bolt head to help prevent the blade from contacting the tank - and it actually worked!!! Then remove the bar brackets and bushings, slide the bar out of the chassis to the rear. Installation is just as with above, reverse of removal, of course minus the need for the reciprocating saw.
I think I pretty much covered everything?
Talk about bang for buck, it's like a new truck! Many of the characteristics I've become accustomed to/didn't realize were there before are gone! Such as: body lean/dive/roll when turning a curve at speed, instant roll when turning into a slow sharp turn, harsh feedback when going over washboard roads, slight wander over uneven pavement and general ride quality = used to be bouncy. The new components have provided an almost sports car handling with a smoothness I didn't know could exist in my old 180k+ truck. So much so this new quality has supported my decision to keep her till the end, and possibly locate and install one of the old classic Chrysler luxury car hood ornaments on my new "land yacht".
Although I consider the Maxx links a tad pricey: front $89. 50 / rear $149. 50, I feel you get what you pay for, and with the quality of the Maxx products I expect many years and miles of service. Also, they are serviceable as replacement bushings (top and bottom) can now be obtained, unlike the stock units. I still wonder why Maxx hasn't developed sway bar mount bushings for the front and rear bars? If Maxx had these components available it surely would have made sense to go with all Maxx products. Maxx could even put together a complete kit for front & rear sway bars: grease-able mount bushings, and the already available link kits, this could all be accomplished for a reasonable price to we owners - like around $300. 00 - "Hint, Hint - are you listening Maxx"?
In closing, two things:
1- I wish I would have done this years ago and
2- I wish Maxx would create a complete "kit" for front, rear, and then a combination front/rear kit for our trucks and offer a group purchase to we TDR Members.
"Hello Maxx, do you hear me/us??":-laf
Heard a "pop" on the way to work yesterday. Got home and took a look around at things. The left rear broke off at the bottom where it secures to the sway bar. Right side not broken yet. Right front bushings both split. Left front top one cracked. 
hopefully longer than 7500 miles
