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Switched +12v Fuse That Stays Hot While Cranking??

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I'm looking for a different power source for my Mini-Maxx... the underhood fuse that I am currently piggybacked on is a switched 12V source as per the instructions, but the problem is that it always "short cycles" the programmer when I start the truck because I have to first wait for the grid heater, and then when you finally twist the key all the way to start the truck, it kills the circuit and the Mini-Maxx reboots again. This doesn't seem like a big deal, but about every 3 or 4 key cycles the darn thing looses the pyro source and reverts back to the factory source setting, so I have to fiddle with it to properly ready my EGT's... Just a PITA that I would love to figure out how to avoid? Yes I can get out my test light and check each fuse, but I figured someone has already solved the problem and figured I'd ask before wasting 20 minutes of my time... Thanks for any tips!!
 
I'm looking for a different power source for my Mini-Maxx... the underhood fuse that I am currently piggybacked on is a switched 12V source as per the instructions, but the problem is that it always "short cycles" the programmer when I start the truck because I have to first wait for the grid heater, and then when you finally twist the key all the way to start the truck, it kills the circuit and the Mini-Maxx reboots again. This doesn't seem like a big deal, but about every 3 or 4 key cycles the darn thing looses the pyro source and reverts back to the factory source setting, so I have to fiddle with it to properly ready my EGT's... Just a PITA that I would love to figure out how to avoid? Yes I can get out my test light and check each fuse, but I figured someone has already solved the problem and figured I'd ask before wasting 20 minutes of my time... Thanks for any tips!!


You mean by a switched 12v source you mean its powered when the key is turned on ?, and of course off when the key is off . Maybe I missed something, but if thats the case, then why not a switch on the existing wiring, and leave off until the truck is running. Or as been pointed out go to the battery, and fuse it, and add a switch.
 
Not sure if you have the capability, but if you add a decent sized electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the positive and negative, it will act as an instantaneous battery in the ckt, and keep your programmer juiced.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-EEU-TP1E202S-CAPACITOR-2000UF-RADIAL/dp/B00MMY2ZH8

negative lead is marked with grey stripe with "-" signs

I have personally used this method in the past with good results

-j


Was thinking after my reply, my ideas were not that great, if he goes to the battery then he doesn't want to forget to shut it off after shutting the truck off, and if he switches his existing setup, right back where he started if he leaves the switch on then the same problem he has when starting.

Sounds like what you purposed is a good way.
 
What's a grid heater? :-laf

Seriously though, my Black Maxx is on fuse M35, which is for heated seats. I've never had a problem such as what you described.

If the MM is changing sources, could there be an update for it that addresses that? I know the software is hard to find, but if it isn't running the latest firmware, then it's worth researching.

I'm using the original PCH board instead of the bigger black box that replaced it. So I wonder if that is not working right or if the pyro connections are loose?
 
Thanks for the replies folks!!

I'll try the M35 fuse first and see if it stays hot while cranking. If not, that capacitor trick is a GREAT idea and I'll go that route instead! Thanks again!!
 
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