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Switched to EFILive!!

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Fan Clutch too Tight

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So how does a person determine if a different lift pump setup is needed? And which one to go with?
Call Glacier Diesel Power and speak to Richard. He will steer you in the right direction, even if it means using something other than a product he currently distributes.
 
I usually had the RP on stock, which on my digital monitor indicated 23,280. Last week I bumped it up to the next level on Smarty and I THINK it would hit 24-something. I just took it out for a ride now (efilive) with the RP setting showing, and it would hit 24-something right after a shift, and high 23s the rest of the time.
Another thing I noticed is RP at idle in neutral. It was always 6800-7000, now it's 7600-7850. My EGTs are slightly higher when flooring it. I just hit 1300, which before I had a hard time hitting 1200.

I noticed I mistyped in my last post. I meant to say 23k, not 22. .
I better switch to a lower setting before I blow a head gasket or an injector tip, huh?

EFI Live and UDC tuners will up the idle rail pressure, it creates less smell and a more efficient burn. I do this on many of my tunes.

How much total boost are you running? Do you have head-studs? Do you tow often?
 
On the high power setting that recorded 535/1078 on the dyno, I am about 46-48. On the next lower setting, 467/957, I am at 42-44. No head studs yet, but I may have those done for peace of mind. During summer, I probably am pulling a trailer 20% of my miles, but usually only 8,000 lbs, and I never have to floor it so my boost is almost always well under 30 psi.
 
The lower tune is just on the upper edge of sustainable power for the cooling/oil system. If I were you I would invest in some studs.
 
The lower tune is just on the upper edge of sustainable power for the cooling/oil system. If I were you I would invest in some studs.

I agree. Do you recommend a new head gasket at the same time, and if so, a stock Cummins HG or aftermarket?
 
Over the past several months, I've been watching my coolant tank level and it's been very slowly dropping. Past month, maybe 1/8". A few years ago, it was right between the hot and cold marks on the tank. Is that an indicator? I don't see any visible leaks other than the few I get when block heater is plugged in and I get a few dribbles from that coolant hose behind the turbo.
 
I would take an oil sample and check for coolant in the oil. A local Cat dealer or John Deer dealer can do the oil sample analysis for you.

Jim W.
 
It seems I was running SW9 @75 for the past 2 years. Last month, I bumped it to 99.
All the other settings were confusing to me, so I can't tell you for sure where they were. I changed things around and found a setting that was a bit softer at tip in, and didn't smoke as much. May have been torque management, may have been timing, may have been both. . after two or three years of having it, I was still unclear what I was doing. That's why I didn't feel qualified to do my own tuning with UDC.
I probably should be monitoring drive pressure. I've read your posts regarding it and I just haven't gotten around to it. When I blow a head gasket, and my truck is down, I'll find the time to fabricate it up...
One other thing I've noticed is my EGT in drive standing still used to be 450. Now, it's closer to 300. Also, when I go to park my truck, I would have to wait at least 20 seconds to get EGT below 400. Now it's below 400 as I put it in park. I'm thinking it's due to a combination of timing and duration. That's my limit as far as programming...
When I have any updates, I'll keep you posted.
Thanks

This thread is slightly old, so I don't mind asking a new question about someones comment. Talking about EGT, I always wonder "where" the appropriate range and limit is at. My truck seems to hit 1200 pretty easy. My mods are all listed on my signature. I know I'm lacking on air flow. And, I would love to put in a wicked wheel, turbo, boost elbow, or intercooler.

My typical egt's take forever to get below 400 deg. And driving I almost never see anything below 700-800. On the plus side though, when I tow, they never get obnoxiously high. But even solo, I can still hit 1300.

Thoughts? I know I'm lacking air flow, maybe I should just do it. haha
 
Safe EGT's is a function of timing, stock is safe at 1450°-1500° but throw any timing in there and it decreases. My continuous limit is 1250° with 1300° as my absolute max.

If you are still running a stock turbo you are going to be air limited at any elevation with just about any tune with those 60hp sticks, and without knowing how much timing the BDGT adds I wouldn't let it get above 1250° for very long while towing.

It's amazing what good custom tuning can do for power/EGT's/timing with larger injectors and a towing tune. I am running BBi Stage 1's and was able to keep my fueling the same as with my stock sticks but cut my timing by 5 or 6° in the WOT hill climbing region for towing and that does a lot for safety and power.
 
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Buzz, our trucks are set up quite differently, you have bigger injectors and stock turbo. I have stock injectors and a compound turbo setup. I rarely see 1000 degrees. I have to be lugging it uphill in locked OD with a heavy trailer to even see 1100. In my case, if I wanted to cool the EGTs, I'd give her more throttle to wake up the bigger turbo. That probably sounds much different than you may expect, but that's just how mine is.
I imagine you blow black smoke quite a bit. If you do, you aren't utilizing your fuel efficiently. More air will cool you off and make more power since you already have excess fuel. More air without excess fuel won't get you anything.
When I switched to the compound setup, I was running Smarty Jr at 100 hp. The compound setup gave me zero measurable power increase using 0-60 as my yardstick. A dyno may have said 10-20 hp...
Turning up the fuel without changing intake air woke up my truck, then custom tuning turned it into a civilized beast!!
There may be single turbos now that offer quick response and higher flow than stock, I'm just not sure which ones. AH64ID has played with that quite a bit and seems to have a good grip on what options you could go with.
Since you're in Illinois, I would recommend talking to the guys that did my tuning: www.cummins-tuner.com in Union, IL. They have an awesome dyno and offer all different turbo setups and can verify what you have. If you have the money, and since you have studs and injectors and a built trans...I'd look into their compound setup. Try their website and click on the videos. Nick is a good guy to work with.
 
oh yeah, I agree 100%, with both of you. Maybe I should consider doing a tuning upgrade, and air flow sooner than I thought. I was trying to build a solid truck, and leave it alone for a few years to please the wife. haha. diesel heads know that never happens. As far as what AH64ID said, with timing... that's been my biggest deterant for bully dog. all they do it make their claims, and don't list any real data. I have no idea if timing is added or not. I assume it is. But have no way to prove it. I would love to tune with "cumminstuner", but not having efi live for the 03-05's, I didn't try talking to them yet. I didn't realize you had twin turbo's otherwise I would've understood why your egt's were down from mine. Twin's are probably out of question, due to the heavy price tag. I thought about re-engineering a VGT in place, but after researching noticed that relibility was an issues. As with most people, if money was no object I would have it all done. But I think the engine would survive better by getting some custom tunes, and air upgrades.
 
Ditch the BD and get a Smarty S-06 with UDC.. I happen to know a guy who does custom tunes for those...:-laf:-laf
 
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