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synthetic oil

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Is it worth the extra cash to use Rotella synthetic or Rotella blend ? been using the blend for 50k

My UOA results were very good for Rotella T6. When it became "unavailable" for whatever supply chain excuse I switched to AMSOIL DME Signature Series, that's dropped on my doorstep. Switching oils can affect UOA trends so I have stayed with the AMSOIL even though T6 is available on shelves again.

I have only reached the soot limit once, a surprise to me. I must be the poster child on why they required a 6 month oil change regardless of miles. Your engine is good for one year. When WARRANTY is over I may sample at 6 months and change every year. Than again I don't feel the need to gamble saving like $100 risking a $20,000 engine.

Worth it ... If the situation comes up where the synthetic provides protection where conventional or blends fail: Yes. One example is blow a radiator and the full synthetic can take the higher "overheat" heat over conventional.

So you roll the dice if the better oil could ever be worth it. I have wasted money on other things, but, by example I am running a full synthetic. The extreme heat, 121F, we experience is justification enough for ME.

Do you experience extreme cold? It's the other area synthetic has an advantage.

How long do you intend to keep the pickup?
 
Been running T6 Rotella since day 1. As Tuesdak said, no need to run non-synthetic since there is not much cost savings there, heck I used to run T4 in my 5.9 and changed it every 5k miles, less than $100 for a oil change is well worth not worrying about it. Now my mileage is lower than 10k / yr so I simply do an annual change and dont sweat it.
 
My UOA results were very good for Rotella T6. When it became "unavailable" for whatever supply chain excuse I switched to AMSOIL DME Signature Series, that's dropped on my doorstep. Switching oils can affect UOA trends so I have stayed with the AMSOIL even though T6 is available on shelves again.

I have only reached the soot limit once, a surprise to me. I must be the poster child on why they required a 6 month oil change regardless of miles. Your engine is good for one year. When WARRANTY is over I may sample at 6 months and change every year. Than again I don't feel the need to gamble saving like $100 risking a $20,000 engine.

Worth it ... If the situation comes up where the synthetic provides protection where conventional or blends fail: Yes. One example is blow a radiator and the full synthetic can take the higher "overheat" heat over conventional.

So you roll the dice if the better oil could ever be worth it. I have wasted money on other things, but, by example I am running a full synthetic. The extreme heat, 121F, we experience is justification enough for ME.

Do you experience extreme cold? It's the other area synthetic has an advantage.

How long do you intend to keep the pickup?
 
Is it worth the extra cash to use Rotella synthetic or Rotella blend ? been using the blend for 50k
I use synthetic because it has a much higher resistance to high heat. With all the garbage they put on the engines now for smog, I use full as it cost the same as my 1997 or 2005 RAM with dino oil changes at 5K. I change mine now at 7500 with it at 50% on their "oil scale" per the odometer.
 
Rotella T6 5W-40 covers the full temperature operating range per DODGE, and even in hot-as-hell Texas the engine turns over more easily. Changed 17-years ago to this brand/spec as it’s available nationwide and has shown good UOA numbers for the engine as a class.

If I worked it harder I’d retain spec, but order SCHAEFFERS.

Almost all oil is so much better than 30-years ago it’s a source of amazement.

Whatever chosen, just follow factory guideline and forget about it.

.
 
Considering how much soot there is from the EGR in our oil, I think that the lube oil could use all the help it can get and use what the owners manual recommends. I prefer the Rotella T6 5w-40 with a Fleetguard stratapore filter and I change and sample my own oil. At our power plants I work maintenance planning we have switched almost everything (gear and bearing boxes, oilers) over the synthetic, specifically Mobil and sometimes Shell and Schaeffer lubricants for higher temp equipment. On large reciprocating equipment like large Ingersol Rand air compressors, downtime went from near every other month when the plant was new to now 40 years later down time on those same compressors maybe every five years using synthetic. It's pretty remarkable stuff.
 
first change to synthetic with 60k on 2020 and have noticed a change from 203 oil temp down to177 in outside temps of 95 . Looks good so far with shell 10 30 .

There is no oil temp sensor, which means that you're looking at the oil temp gauge at a different stage of operation. The oil temp reading is an algorithm based on other inputs, which likely include coolant temp, load, and ambient temp but I have never seen a list of that it actually uses.
 
Take it easy on my guys, but I just noticed Walmart has a full synthetic Supertech 15w40. I had seen they carried conventional 15w40, but not the full synthetic. Not sure if this is a newer item or I've just missed it. At around $15.84/gal it's the best deal on full synthetic I've seen. Is anyone running it? Reading to forum it seems Rottela T6 is the gold standard and the only CK4 rated oil I've seen carried locally. Most of the other brands are rated CK4/SN and from my reading the SN means it can be used in gasoline engines which leads me to believe it's a step below CK4. That said, I don't like the exhaust smell from T6. I mostly use our truck for pulling our trailer and don't want to hear the wife and kids complaining about the smell.
We put about 6K miles annually so not much. A mechanical told me once, clean oil is better than any fancy oil. I don't feel comfortable running oil over a year so for me that works out to one change on a full synthetic or two on conventional. I am partial to Costco Kirkland's brand products, so I've settled on two oil changes with filter change every other oil change. On sale, which it is this month, it's around $26 for 3 gallon box, best deal I've seen anywhere on conventional oil. I put the Geno's femco oil drain valve and has made oil changes a breeze with no mess.

Super Tech Full Synthetic Heavy Duty SAE 15W40 Motor Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com
 
Take it easy on my guys, but I just noticed Walmart has a full synthetic Supertech 15w40. I had seen they carried conventional 15w40, but not the full synthetic. Not sure if this is a newer item or I've just missed it. At around $15.84/gal it's the best deal on full synthetic I've seen. Is anyone running it? Reading to forum it seems Rottela T6 is the gold standard and the only CK4 rated oil I've seen carried locally. Most of the other brands are rated CK4/SN and from my reading the SN means it can be used in gasoline engines which leads me to believe it's a step below CK4. That said, I don't like the exhaust smell from T6. I mostly use our truck for pulling our trailer and don't want to hear the wife and kids complaining about the smell.
We put about 6K miles annually so not much. A mechanical told me once, clean oil is better than any fancy oil. I don't feel comfortable running oil over a year so for me that works out to one change on a full synthetic or two on conventional. I am partial to Costco Kirkland's brand products, so I've settled on two oil changes with filter change every other oil change. On sale, which it is this month, it's around $26 for 3 gallon box, best deal I've seen anywhere on conventional oil. I put the Geno's femco oil drain valve and has made oil changes a breeze with no mess.

Super Tech Full Synthetic Heavy Duty SAE 15W40 Motor Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

Likely a Group III synthetic, not that there is anything wrong with that just pointing out that not all full synthetics are the same.

Nothing wrong with a CK/SN oil, it’s just that some diesel oils are certified in it and some aren’t. They still have to meet the same CK specs the oils do without the SN designation. It used to be more common for oils to have both, but with the viscosity differences it’s likely not worth the certification for most oils. For example the Amsoil Signature series is CK/SN in the 5w-30 weight, but none of the other weights.
 
Take it easy on my guys, but I just noticed Walmart has a full synthetic Supertech 15w40. I had seen they carried conventional 15w40, but not the full synthetic. Not sure if this is a newer item or I've just missed it. At around $15.84/gal it's the best deal on full synthetic I've seen.
Is anyone running it?

I am partial to Costco Kirkland's brand products, so I've settled on two oil changes with filter change every other oil change. On sale, which it is this month, it's around $26 for 3 gallon box, best deal I've seen anywhere on conventional oil.

Super Tech Full Synthetic Heavy Duty SAE 15W40 Motor Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com

You are correct Walmart just came out with Supertech Synthetic 15w40 in the last year or so... I've seen a Virgin Oil Analysis on the stuff on a different forum, and it looks like a real nice 15w40 for the price. In fact I went ahead and used it this last time around so it is in my truck engine at the moment. Kirkland is a real good deal when it is on sale.. Mobil Delvac is a loss leader at certain stores, and they generally have a spring and fall rebate program on the stuff.. rebate program is going on now.

https://promotion.mobil.com/offers/delvacrebate/terms.asp

back to the original guy's question, realistically any CK4 with the CES 20086 certification in the correct viscosity for his model engine is going to serve him well because a difference makes no difference when it comes to this sort of thing
 
Who is everyone using for OA these days? I’ve been using Blackstone but I’ve been reading not great things and the time to get back to me is forever. I’ll probably order a couple Cummins kits today and send my old oil that I’ve saved and compare the two OA.

Also, I’m sure everyone will have their own opinion but Schaeffers vs Amsoil 10w-30? I’ve been using Rotella 10w-30 since I’m in the Northwest and don’t see crazy temperatures. If I shouldn’t be using the 10w-30, please let me know!
 
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