Synthetic or Dino oil?

[AH64ID]

Ya sure, if you want to listen to some bureaucrat in Washington, begging (I mean directing) the auto makers to extend out the intervals. Think about it, in the government eyes you cut back the use of engine oil in half. I'm not drinking that Kool-Aid, just because some algorithm, I don't trust, makes the choice for you when to change your oil. Do you believe your OEM oil pressure gauge?

Just like installing an aftermarket oil psi gauge on my 05, I do UOA. I’ll change my oil based on that, and yes oils are better.

But waste your own money if you want to, it’s the great thing about being able to make our own choices.

 

[RVTRKN]

I'd believe and go by the UOA, if I were to hassel it, but they cost too. i did it one time suspecting fuel in oil at 10K miles, and it came back normal. Its just easier to change it at 5K for a few more dollars.

 

[JR]

Ya sure, if you want to listen to some bureaucrat in Washington, begging (I mean directing) the auto makers to extend out the intervals. Think about it, in the government eyes you cut back the use of engine oil in half. I'm not drinking that Kool-Aid, just because some algorithm, I don't trust, makes the choice for you when to change your oil. Do you believe your OEM oil pressure gauge?

Cummins would not recommend intervals further than they are capable of running. Agricultural/construction versions of the ISB (QSB) 6.7 recommend 500 hour intervals, most people on the 13+ that run their engine oil changes to 15k are nowhere near 500 hours. My last oil change was at just shy of 14k miles, I put on 342 total hours in that time frame. Remember Ag and construction use almost nobody runs synthetic oils unless in very cold climates. Around here we see alot of single digit weather and some below zero, most guys just add oil pan heaters and use the block heaters when it gets cold. The cost of synthetic vs conventional fleet oil is huge when your talking a large fleet and most are not willing to spend that big $$ when the manufacturer puts it in ink that conventional is recommended under most conditions. So it's definitely not marketing hype just because they put it in a Ram for consumer use.

 

[AH64ID]

I'd believe and go by the UOA, if I were to hassel it, but they cost too. i did it one time suspecting fuel in oil at 10K miles, and it came back normal. Its just easier to change it at 5K for a few more dollars.

If you’re able to validate the OE change interval with one or two UOA’s then you can stop doing UOA and just run the longer interval. This will save money and time.

That’s what I did on my 03 4Runner, a couple UOAs to verify that the oil could last 12 months and I quit doing them. It was a good thing too, as the first oil I tried was only barely making the 12 months. Now the oil has lots of life left at 12 month.

 

[TCDiesel]

OAs need established trends to be relied on ,Yes after the trend is known you can dropped to yearly OA. here's My ED, For some reason I cannot find My 6.7s Folder. Everyone knows how the 3.0 Like's to puke/choke itself to death.

 

[EricViviano]

I thought you did not want to run synthetic until your engine was broke in? I have been living by that rule my whole life. Dino oil in all my engine rebuilds. But if they are factory filling the new trucks with synthetic hows that work?

 

[JR]

I thought you did not want to run synthetic until your engine was broke in? I have been living by that rule my whole life. Dino oil in all my engine rebuilds. But if they are factory filling the new trucks with synthetic hows that work?

The 6.7 is (supposedly) FF with 5w40 because they do not know where they are being delivered to, and the 5w40 covers the cold weather requirements.

I have an engine owners manual for a 2017 QSB6.7 that says not to use any special additives for new or fresh rebuilt engines, to use the same oil you would normally use for your climate.

 

[AH64ID]

I thought you did not want to run synthetic until your engine was broke in? I have been living by that rule my whole life. Dino oil in all my engine rebuilds. But if they are factory filling the new trucks with synthetic hows that work?

With modern machining the final fit and finish of a motor is so good that you don’t have to use dino oil for break in like we used to.

I’ve used dino oil in rebuilds because I like to dump the oil a couple times in the first 5-10K miles and it’s cheaper.

On my ‘18 I dumped the oil at ~4500 for Amsoil ADP, it’s their mid grade OE interval synthetic. I’ll run that for 6 months and swap out to DME. The dealership told me the oil was changed when I bought it at 3200, but the filter was on their dry with gorilla force so I think it might have been the factory one.

 

[rikbakke]

I don't assume and have not experienced an expert level of experience at the dealer oil change racks. ~11
I use the ~$11/gallon Chevron Delo 15w-40 dino-ish oil either purchases and Wallyworld or Costco - and Fleetguard stratapore filters.
My father-in-law ran Amzoil with a multi-filter setup and very extended drain intervals in his 2003 SRW CTD 3500 for years - along with regular Blackstone reports. I never saw the return on value other than for the personal interest, which I understand.

 

[EricViviano]

On my ‘18 I dumped the oil at ~4500 for Amsoil ADP

That is right where we are at on miles, think I'm going with Rotella T6 5w-40, Ive got 3 jugs of it in the shop already.

 

[Aftershock00]

Just my 2 cents, but I have been reading that synthetic is more resistant to coking, which can be an issue if the turbo is not allowed to cool down enough before shutdown and lead to premature turbo failure. Going forward, I will be using synthetic, but im OCD with my stuff.