Tensioner Check

[rashwor]

I made it to 200k with my front end, but in reality, it was needing ball joint replacement at 160k. Shops not knowing what they are looking at; found a competant one at 200k and got it done. I replaced my lower tensioner assembly at about 160k because the belt was beginning to run forward on the a/c compressor pully.



I am not a big fan of replacing things before wear is showing to some degree, but I do some p/m because I don't like the idea of being stranded on the side of the road either. It is all about what you are comfortable with. I try to avoid tow trucks as that is just wasted money caused by me not paying attention in most cases. And p/m is usually cheaper.



For the record, I always replace the complete tensioner assembly, not just the pulley on the tensioner arm. There is two wear points and replacing the pulley only addresses one of them. To each their own.

 

[AEdelheit]

Well, Im 99% sure but have not double checked with the manual that the factory coolant is supposed to be changed at 100k, so to me it only makes sense to replace water pump and thermostat while your in there, since you have to pull the belt off also makes sense to do the tensioner parts that are known to go bad and the belt thats probably sqeaking on shutoff. If you try to save money and only do coolant then the water pump goes at 110k you just bought $100 in coolant twice and may be stranded so for the $50 for a pump and thermostat it seems to make the most sense to do it all with the 100k cooltant change. IMO

 

[Bob4x4]

Cheap insurance I replaced my Water pump at 100,000 miles my friend's pump failed at 105,000. My pump's bearrings were making noise when ya spun them. The tentioner was worn, plastic roller was worn with a tapper causing the belt to start to run off. Geno's has all the parts except for the idler. The Gates water pump had much larger shaft and bearrings along with the seal. the Tentioner from Gates has a steel pully only issue with it is that you can't change the belt with out removing the tentioner asy. Both parts looked much better built than the stock stuff.

I would really like to see a pic of the Gates side by side with the Oem... ... ... .

 

[AEdelheit]

I would really like to see a pic of the Gates side by side with the Oem... ... ... .

man I just did mine saturday, should have taken a pic of the two side by side. the Impeller on the gates seemed bigger and did not have the ring on the back of the fins connecting them.

 

[Bob4x4]

man I just did mine saturday, should have taken a pic of the two side by side. the Impeller on the gates seemed bigger and did not have the ring on the back of the fins connecting them.

That is an anti-cavitation design

 

[mwilson]

That is an anti-cavitation design

X2.



Far better design than the open fins.



Mike.

 

[ColemanR]

I'm not crazy about reman stuff or aftermarket so I will take my chances thermostat/waterpump 300k+when it goes odds are it will give notice with a leak I look under my truck everytime I get out of it just habit I also watch the front of my trailer for any odd spots(oil,transfliud,antifreeze... ),lost my alternator today 485k drove 300 miles home not charging I do all the work on my truck check things regularly both sides have merit. All I can say is do what your comfortable with I carry alot of spare parts so if I have a problem I can fix it on saturday nite because thats when it breaks down... LOL

 

[AEdelheit]

That is an anti-cavitation design

So was there a problem with cavitation or did the engineers design it that way just to be safe?

 

[ddivinia]

Factory balljoints lasted 80K for me. I have 315s - so, that might have accelerated it.



No off roaring - mostly highway miles. Some gravel roads, etc. 80% towing



D.

 

[macdaddy]

HAHAHHHHHAHAHAH stock 3rd gen ball joints that make it 100k, hahahhahaa... ... . Oooohhhhh wait was that not a joke :-laf:-laf:-laf

I am dead serious ask Bob4X4 109K actually.



Jealous?

 

[MChrist]

Speaking about front u-joints, I had mine replaced at around 35,000. Now 40,000 miles later, I noticed that by rocking the driveshaft between transfer case and front diff, I can see free play in both front u-joints again. . just enough to notice movement. I grease them every 5,000 miles or sooner (since I have a lift at work). I'm almost never in 4WD, and never "off-road".

What gives?

 

[Perrymedic]

AEdelheit's tool box looks like mine for the this weekend. My 05 just turned 100k and I noticed some weeping underneath while it was parked in my shop. New belt, hoses, stat etc. Next up da valves!

 

[MChrist]

I'm curious if your valves are out of adjustment at only 100,000 miles. My 98. 5 got adjusted at 230,000 and were barely out of range.
Let us know.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I adjusted my 03 at 50K and found them to be all over the place but generally in spec. I adjusted them so all of them were exactly the same (separate spec for in/ex of course). I did this looking to make it a bit smoother and possibly get better mileage. Made absolutely no difference.

 

[Perrymedic]

I had a 98. 5 and adjusted the valves at 50k. They too were all
over the place. I did notice some improvement in mileage and seemed
to run a bit better. I will keep you advised.

 

[S.Morris]

I highly suggest replacing idler and tensioner pulley bearings at around 100K miles when you change the belt. Have not yet seen these bearings that would make the second belt change and I have changed a lot of them.



The tensioner should be good for 2or 3 times that mileage. Have seen them acutually corode and sieze up in places that use lots of road salt.



Anyone who knows what I mean by driving on a frost heaved rode will never see 100K miles on a 4x4 ball joints , if this is the seasonal routine where you live. I have a set of Carli's in my truck and Prosteers in business truck(s) so we will see which one if any is an improvement a couple of years from now.



Up here, non greaseable axle ujoints usually last as long as the ball joints. Running precisions now and greasing them, and keeping track:-laf.

 

[AEdelheit]

I'm curious if your valves are out of adjustment at only 100,000 miles. My 98. 5 got adjusted at 230,000 and were barely out of range.

Let us know.

Mine were all just a little loose, but no noticeable difference, did it more for peace of mind

 

[George Cameron]

Belt Installation Diagrams 2006

These diagrams were extracted from the 2006 DR Service Manual. I thought they might be helpful...

 

[Prairie Dog]

Hey George, I think I have the same diagram under my hood but I just noticed that the lower (no A/C) diagram is wrong. Check out pulley #7 ~ the belt enters one side and leaves the other. It would take 2 pulleys to do that!

 

[George Cameron]

Or a 'magic' pulley with a slot through it.



These were taken from the Factory SM. Perhaps this explains why some dealers' services are so bad...



I downloaded the SM from a Dodge website (217 MB) back in April when I bought my 2006 used with 34k on the clock. Since my truck has A/C, I can't speak to what actually goes on with the tensioner on non-A/C models.