Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) there is a new hydraulic clutch kit from mopar

[DKarvwnaris]

TO those who may keep track of new parts or revisions on older ones like I do, I figured this was worth posting.

Up until now, the hydraulic clutch kit for our dodges which is prebled and completely assembled has been over $300. 00 from Mopar. (usually up around $350. 00 or better from a dealer parts counter. This is the complete kit which has the master cylinder, line, slave sealed with fluid out of the box. I don;t bother replacing them in halves anymore as usually one goes out and then the other follows soon after.

I had my friend Kenny order the kit for me through his shop for the jobber discount. To both our surprise, there is now a 2 piece kit available that is prebled with a quick connect fitting in the middle of the line. This makes it possible for Mopar to bleed both ends seperately and since they connect together with a quick disconnect fitting setup, they remain free of air.

The biggest benefit is the cost and the ease installation. Since it comes in two halves, you can install them seperately before clicking them together. Much easier than wiggling it around as a whole.

Cost for the new kit is $190. 00 from Mopar, so if you have a fading endplay on your pedal, keep this in mind.

Just for future knowledge, he also checked the kit for the 5600 transmission setup. The only difference between them is the slave cylinder is smaller diameter which equates to a deeper stroke of the slave in the 5600. The mounting holes are the same so if you are unhappy with the stroke length of your 4500 equipped truck, the slave from a 5600 will allow for a deeper push against the fork. This will hurt nothing as the fork will just bottom out before its at its end. I checked the top play with this and there is no difference in the release depth to worry about possible clutch slippage.

I hope this is of use to some of you. I was dreading the price of this maintenance repair before, but at over 240,000 miles of stepping on the clutch pedal, I have nothing to compain about I guess.

 

[barbwire]

Good info, We like to follow these things as well

 

[MChalkley]

I heard/read somewhere that the master and slave cylinders are available separately now. Is this true and, if so, where?



Thanks!

 

[DKarvwnaris]

I heard/read somewhere that the master and slave cylinders are available separately now. Is this true and, if so, where?



Thanks!

Raybestos has been selling the parts seperately for years through any parts suppplier chain that carries their brand. I haven't used the individual components ( until now) because they required bleeding and are difficult to get the air out of them the way the bleeder valves work, a real mess. Unless I was building a conversion such as GM or Ford with a dodge NV-4500 bellhousing setup. Then it requires a custom connector line which I would make out of ARP fittings and stainless steel braided line.

The unit I am referring to here, is new from Mopar and comes in a two piece kit, so you can order the ends seperately as I mentioned above. The Mopar quick fitting they have designed to connect the two parts together is a no mess quick coupler that doesn't even loose a drop due to its design and the way a plunger is pushed in one side by the other side when they click together.

I will rummage through my receipts and/or find the parts box so I can post the part # from Mopar here some time this week . I forgot to include that in the original post, sorry.

 

[DavidHarvey]

I just installed it on my truck -- what a nightmare.



Here is the part #: 5015258-AA HYD CTRL 21139227



During my installation all went extremely well until I went to 'click' the two lines together. They would not even come close to clicking together. The slave side had a socket type connection (looked very similar to a cigarette lighter socket). The master line had a smaller connect with a white plastic slider ring on it. Looking at the master-side connector it was obvious that it was supposed to click in, but no matter how much muscle I put into pushing the two together it would not even come close (and I'm not a little guy). Looking at the connection, it appeared that the master connector needed to go into the slave socket by about another . 5 cm before it would engage, but I could not budge it. At one point I was sure that I was missing a critical piece of the quick connect mechanism.



Finally I became so fustrated that I went for drastic measures. I took out a pair of heavy duty needle nose pliers and on a whim I decided to give the inside of the slave-side socket a little push with it. I put a lot of effort into it and it moved! I should have stopped right there.



Well, I was in the moment and decided to give it another strong push. Pow! Hydraulic fluid everywhere; in my face, on my shirt, everywhere.



The good news is that the sockets fit together after that. The bad news is that I need to bleed that air out now. I've tried once, but I'm not so sure it worked. May try again this aftenoon.



I hope this helps any others out there that install the kit and can't seem to fit the connects together.

 

[DavidHarvey]

Oh and I should mention that I bought the part at ChyslerPartsDirect.com for $149. 85.



They are very helpful and friendly guys.

 

[DavidHarvey]

And one more thing. The kit I bought was for an '01. The part # pay be different for different years, so be aware of that when you order.

 

[moparguy]

So if you were installing another, would you depress the slave cylinder connector just to make sure it wasn't stuck. And now that you've tested the travel limits about how far should it be depressed?



Thanks for sharing, I need to replace my clutch hydraulics and welcome the new lower price. Hopefully mine will work a little better.



Thanks, RJR

 

[DavidHarvey]

I think if I were to do it again, it would go a lot better. Because I know that the connector actually works, I'd try more inventive ways to get them to click.



I believe in the end that the socket side of the slave was somehow 'stuck' in the stock position. Under normal cirumstances I don't think there would be a problem. It looks like the slave mechanism is engineered to travel about 1/8 inch before allowing fluid to flow. Unfortunately for me it took about 200 lbs of pressure to get it to budge.



PS - the fluid doesn't taste very good. Also it quickly reduces all sense of feeling from your lips. : )

 

[biggy238]

What you described is the connector that ford/mazda has used on their 90's model hydraulic slaves. And yeah the fluid makes a pretty good local anesthetic.



The bigger problem is that the plastic (release) ring will eventually seize into place and the line will be one permanently unless it's forced apart. (this might be a good thing?)

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I got the one piece assembly from my buddy at the Dodge dealership for $200

 

[LindseyD]

Am I to understand you put a two peice fit on your '96? I checked on the current part for my '97, still one piece. The part number quoted farther down the thread for a 2001 is a two piece. If you did put a two piece on your 96, can you give me the part number or application. You can send PM or reply to -- email address removed -- Thanks, Dee

 

[Heepdriver]

I think if I were to do it again, it would go a lot better. Because I know that the connector actually works, I'd try more inventive ways to get them to click.



I believe in the end that the socket side of the slave was somehow 'stuck' in the stock position. Under normal cirumstances I don't think there would be a problem. It looks like the slave mechanism is engineered to travel about 1/8 inch before allowing fluid to flow. Unfortunately for me it took about 200 lbs of pressure to get it to budge.



PS - the fluid doesn't taste very good. Also it quickly reduces all sense of feeling from your lips. : )

I think that the 200 #'s of force required was the force to compress the clutch enough to let the quick disconnect valve open. If you had installed the slave cylinder first and it tightened up against the bellhousing, where their plastic straps like on the old one piece units. Either way you were pushing against the clutch or the plastic straps, probably the clutch. Next time try looseinin the slave cylinder until it is just loose and then connect them.

 

[RSergeant]

quik connect

Thank God I am not the only one with this problem I ordered the new two piece assembly from enterprise engine. having the same problem can't get the quik connect to lock still needs to go half as far again. I have been driving with it like this for a couple of weeks maybe that is why it doesn't feel like my clutch is disengaging all the way. Is there any good way to do this with out breaking any thing... Thanks for the help.

 

[Highfinance97]

i would like to bring this thread up again because i am having problems with minePlay in clutch linkage with this two peice setup is it a lot better because of how easy it is or does it benifit the truck??



Is there a part # for a 97??



Also is there any other companys that make a even better one??



Thanks,Michael

 

[REFLOYD]

will this kit work on other year trucks???

 

[SRehberg]

Are the stock parts (clutch master and slave) rebuildable? I'm new to the 5spd. It seems I have to push the clutch down to the floor, to start the truck and almost that far to shift. Feels pretty soft so not sure what is normal. I hadn't realized the master and slave came as a unit. Good advice on the 5600 slave though.

 

[Smokin_Monster]

I just put a two piece in my 98 12 valve that I got with my dual disc clutch. I had to use the stock rubber o-ring where it goes into the firewall, but other than that it worked great. I just pushed the two pieces together until they clicked. Works great so far. I also like the fact that it is adjustable.

 

[Dieseldemon]

They are available from NAPA as separate parts new style and old

 

[SRehberg]

Thanks, that's good to know.