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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Things to do for best MPG???

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Bart said:
The camper is around 3,000 lbs, the early Bronco is around 3,K and I'm guessing the car trailer is 1,500. So with 7,500 pounds more and cab over wind resistance I guess 13 isn't too bad.

Bart, thanks for asking all the newbie questions I have... Great reading this post!



As for your weights... I would guess your EB is closer to 4000# and a decent "car" hauler trailer is gonna be over 2000#, so I would add 1500# to 2000#s to your estimate.



I'm leaving out in the morning for Oklahoma to pick up my Ford (83 F250 gasser) replacement. 96 3500 CTD LWB DRW... Will be interesting to see what a 100K stock miler will do on I40 coming east... (gotta be better than the 6mpg I was getting out of the 460BB Ford) See, it's all relative. :D
 
Thanks for the info Jeepullr. Yes, the car trailer is decent, it's a full steel bed 16 or 18 foot dove tail. Bronco is packin' a 351 Windsor, aod, 35 tires and is mostly around the 4K mark.

Interestingly enough I live at the other end of I 40 Barstow California. Acturaly , I work in Barstow which is the end of I 40 and I drive it every day goin' to work.

My '98 has 160K on it right now and Wen. after work we're leaving for Oregon and that's a 1600 mile round trip Gotta love them Dodge CTDs :D :D :D

I'll be doin' some mileage checkin also. Take a note book with you like I'm doing and also if you have a gps check your speedo for accuracy.

Have a safe trip and bring 'em back alive.
 
10-4



Truck I'm purchasing has an auxilary tank added... So I'll fill up in OKC then hit I40. Should get home with about 10 Gallons still in the tank. Will then fill up and see where I stand.



Good to see another "Wheeler"! I've got 2; 1988 YJ, 4"lift, 32" MT's, FI258/TF999/NP231 and a '72 Commando 2"+SOA, 360/TF727/D300TS. Got tired of hauling my junk around the country at 6MPG... I'll report back on Friday my trip.
 
Well, the trip to Oregon is done and the combined mpg ended up at 16.

Before I left I was able to remove the oem air box and install the BHAF. That is a BIG sob isn't!! I kept the tack at a respectable 1500 rpms and that was 55 mph (corrected to 57/58). I had my 2. 5K# (dry) camper on and it was most likely 3K wet. With the large frontal area I'm thinking the 16 wasn't too bad. Comments on this please.

Next step will be the 4" exhaust

Thanks again for all your input.
 
hey bart hi desert here also did you know tst plates were made in victorville & howards muffler has a magnaflow muffler 7x20 w-perforrations but no louvers almost like rip rooks straight piped version good luck john
 
Afternoon JR, no I didn't know the TST company was in Victorville. I've dealt with Howard a few times and will have to go over there and ask him about this muffler.
 
excuse me guys extremly computer challenged on this end please bare with me cooker -it or they are not knocoffs he is the [machinst] for the plates for TST
 
JohnRobinson said:
excuse me guys extremly computer challenged on this end please bare with me cooker -it or they are not knocoffs he is the [machinst] for the plates for TST



Interesting. Thanks :)
 
Thanks for the part # JR. I'll contact Howard about it. I'm wondering, "with my minor mod's" do I need to go to 4" exhaust system or is the 3" okay? Opinions here gentlemen.
 
I found out how important maintenance and common sense are; there is no "fountain of youth," and there is no "silver bullet," when it comes to getting better fuel mileage.



Over the past couple of months I've replaced my overflow valve, cleaned my AFE filter element (dust in the Rockies is amazing), replaced my fuel filter, and cleaned the pre-filter.



My mpg went up about 4 mpg, overnight.



Aside from that -- much as I love the way my truck is set up -- if I'd been able to foresee the steep rise in fuel prices, I'd have avoided the KargoMaster rack I installed about a year ago. Probably would not install my very sexy, extra large towing mirrors, either. With my ARE camper/utility shell, mirrors, and racks, my truck presents just about the ideal wind-spoiling target to anything that blows down our Roaring Fork Valley.



Wind (all but a tailwind) destroys mpg.



Avoid racks unless you absolutely have to have them. Ditto bug/stone screens that spoil airflow over the hood/windshield. Ditto brush guards, extra driving lights, winches, Dumbo-sized elephantine mirrors, and girlfriends hanging their butts out the windows at truckers, too. Streamline your truck, and hold down the speed.



I've got the 4" exhaust, the ATS exhaust manifold, and just about all the other bells and whistles, too, but nothing's more important than making your truck light and drag resistant. Add some air to your tires so that they roll with less friction, and then roll them slower down the road. :)



A final thought, and an issue I've never seen mentioned before: Commercial Airline operators are fanatical about maintaining their fleets and keeping their aircraft clean. Aircraft get regular baths, and I don't think this is to impress the traveling businessman, either. A freshly washed/waxed aircraft/fleet moves through the air with less resistance and saves the airlines' big bucks over the course of a year. If your truck is filthy, it's likely less fuel-efficient than it'd be if it were clean and well maintained.



It all adds up.
 
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Thanks Sasquatch for a lot of good information. One question, why did you replace the over flow valve? Did you have an indication that something was wrong? Regular maintentance? What? By pre-filter I guess you mean an pre-filter on your air filter, correct? I just installed a BHAF on my 3500 before a 1600 mile trip and with a 11' cab-over now there's some wind resistance for you!! I got an average of 16 mpg ($420) while trying to maintain 1500 rpms (57 mph). Yes, I do have those Dumbo mirrors on my rig Talking about aero-dynamics. Has anyone looked at the underside of their trucks? I wonder if some thing could be done to streamline that mess without problems with heat dissipation?
 
Bart:



There's a fuel filter underneath the lift pump on our 12 valves. It's designed to catch the coarser trash from the fuel tank before the fuel is lifted up and run through the second filter under the hood. When the fuel is supplied to the injector pump, any excess is returned to the tank via the "overflow valve," and as this valve ages it also weakens. In addition to its other functions, the overflow valve helps to maintain a consistent pressure (pulling this imperfect explanation from memory) over the whole fuel-delivery system. If the valve weakens too much, your fuel pressure drops off and your mileage will suffer.



My overflow valve had upwards of 150,000 miles on it, so -- when my mileage/performance began to suffer -- I assumed that the overflow valve might have been the culprit. Changing out the valve takes about ten-fifteen minutes and costs about fifty bucks, so it's a no-brainer.



As far as the rest of the maintenance components mentioned (pre-filter, fuel filter, air filter, etc. ) everything's a "continuum," from an efficiency standpoint. Your filters get progressively dirtier from the day you install them, and you could replace them every month if you wanted to see optimum performance from your vehicle. The reasons for not doing this are obvious: The filters are, themselves, expensive, and their optimal service intervals were figured out by engineers smarter than I. What I suspect, however, is that those service intervals were calculated in the era of 50¢ diesel fuel, and with that same fuel now 6-700% more costly, I wonder if it makes sense to change/clean them with greater frequency. . ?



The point I was trying to make in my earlier post is that there are a lot of decisions that effect our gas mileage way, WAY!, more critically than, say, the installation of a 4" exhaust. I can't help being tickled by the guys who wile away long hours (and I include myself in this group, more often than not... ) fretting about poor gas mileage, but they've hung everything but The Great Wall of China on their rigs (camper tops, racks, brush guards, lights, winches, tool boxes, aux fuel tanks, etc. , etc. )



Fancy exhausts, exhaust manifolds, larger air filters (etc. , ad nauseam) are expensive and amount to a gnat-fart in a hurricane, when confronted with the challenge of resurrecting fuel economy from a vehicle that's undergone the above-described, after-market "transformation".



I love my rig, but it's carrying a ton of tools and another ton of aftermarket crap that no wind-tunnel ever blew smoke across in Detroit. :) :)
 
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