Well I'm new to CTD's and was wondering if any of you had any opinions on what to do to make good dependable power, I'm using my truck to haul wood and a 33 foot travel trailer and am having the urge to start Bombing AFTER I take care of a few things (KDP included), also has any one found a remote starter kit that works with a manual transmission??
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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) This is probably a BAD idea...
- Thread starter JSienkowski
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Welcome. And yes, there are a few things to do.
1st - Fix the KDP
2nd - Buy a full set of gauges
3rd - since this is a 95 fix the rear brakes. Buy 2 rear wheel cylinders from Napa. Napa #4637377, about $12 apiece. These will dramatically improve your braking power on the rear wheels. You will have to grind off the ears on the backing plate, not much, about a quarter inch because these cylinders have external rubber boots. Other than that they are a direct replacement. All the screws, bolts, bleeder will fit no problem. Flush the brake system with good fluid and be done with it.
4th - if your gonna tow in the mountains get a jake brake if you don't already have one.
5th - change the intake filter to a BHAF or something better you can afford and maintain so the engine can breath.
6th - change the exhaust over to a 4" and if you can ditch the CAT or gut it unless your state laws prohibit that.
7th - replace the rubber fuel lines (hiding behind the fuel filter) with marine grade lines. (Check the Search item for fuel lines and read. )
8th - Change your serpentine fan belt over to a Goodyear-Gatorback Belt you'll be glad you did.
9th - Learn how far you can go on a tank of fuel using your odometer and start using that method (Read in the Search item for fuel sending unit).
10th - Make sure your transmission has the "Nut Fix" done in the back end. (5th gear I think).
11th - Check and make sure your fuel heater isn't cracked or leaking.
12th - Change your fuel filter often and bleed the water out of it with the little valve on the bottom. Use a good fuel conditioner every other tank.
13th - Buy the oversized rear cover for your front and rear diffs and change your fluid over to synthetic.
14th - If you have one, check the center bearing on your drive shaft. Replace if worn right away. I think that may be only on 2 wheel drives.
Okay, now your ready to start "bombing". Just my 2cents :-laf
1st - Fix the KDP
2nd - Buy a full set of gauges
3rd - since this is a 95 fix the rear brakes. Buy 2 rear wheel cylinders from Napa. Napa #4637377, about $12 apiece. These will dramatically improve your braking power on the rear wheels. You will have to grind off the ears on the backing plate, not much, about a quarter inch because these cylinders have external rubber boots. Other than that they are a direct replacement. All the screws, bolts, bleeder will fit no problem. Flush the brake system with good fluid and be done with it.
4th - if your gonna tow in the mountains get a jake brake if you don't already have one.
5th - change the intake filter to a BHAF or something better you can afford and maintain so the engine can breath.
6th - change the exhaust over to a 4" and if you can ditch the CAT or gut it unless your state laws prohibit that.
7th - replace the rubber fuel lines (hiding behind the fuel filter) with marine grade lines. (Check the Search item for fuel lines and read. )
8th - Change your serpentine fan belt over to a Goodyear-Gatorback Belt you'll be glad you did.
9th - Learn how far you can go on a tank of fuel using your odometer and start using that method (Read in the Search item for fuel sending unit).
10th - Make sure your transmission has the "Nut Fix" done in the back end. (5th gear I think).
11th - Check and make sure your fuel heater isn't cracked or leaking.
12th - Change your fuel filter often and bleed the water out of it with the little valve on the bottom. Use a good fuel conditioner every other tank.
13th - Buy the oversized rear cover for your front and rear diffs and change your fluid over to synthetic.
14th - If you have one, check the center bearing on your drive shaft. Replace if worn right away. I think that may be only on 2 wheel drives.
Okay, now your ready to start "bombing". Just my 2cents :-laf
Last edited:
I've got practice with #9 (Fuel guage sending unit don't work), had already planned on #1 & 2, 3 is new to me, but not a problem (go is OK, WHOA is better), the previous owner installed a Prime-lok filter relocater, everything else sounds like it's covered with regular maintnance, which I've done or have in the works.
:-laf
A very good friend of mine insisted on putting one in his truck with a 5 speed, (against my REPEATED warnings). He completely disabled the clutch switch in his, rather than just create a second circuit with a diode specifically to allow the truck to start by remote only and not effect the clutch pedal safety switch when started as usual. His short term girlfriend of a few weeks borrowed the truck and forgot it was a manual, unfortunately, she realized as she was crawling over a curb and into the front of a small car. Too late to react and push the clutch in, she fortunate to stall it with the brakes before it continued in the cars windshield. (people we inside the car).
If you decide to do this, make sure you really think about the "accidentals" it can cause, beyond your own risk. I never loan my truck out, but not everyone is like that. Especially when trying to say no to a nice new set of, . . uh, eyelashes, yeah, that's what I meant... ...
ATSDiesel said:
A very good friend of mine insisted on putting one in his truck with a 5 speed, (against my REPEATED warnings). He completely disabled the clutch switch in his, rather than just create a second circuit with a diode specifically to allow the truck to start by remote only and not effect the clutch pedal safety switch when started as usual. His short term girlfriend of a few weeks borrowed the truck and forgot it was a manual, unfortunately, she realized as she was crawling over a curb and into the front of a small car. Too late to react and push the clutch in, she fortunate to stall it with the brakes before it continued in the cars windshield. (people we inside the car).
If you decide to do this, make sure you really think about the "accidentals" it can cause, beyond your own risk. I never loan my truck out, but not everyone is like that. Especially when trying to say no to a nice new set of, . . uh, eyelashes, yeah, that's what I meant... ...
I've thought that the remote starter would be more of a hassel then it's worth, guess I'll just get new liners for my swampers!!
Disabling the clutch switch is an accident waiting to happen. One day you'll forget that you left the truck in gear and push the button... or even just hit the button with your keys are in your pocket.
My Dad has a Ford Ranger that's standard and has a pro-installed remote start. What you have to do, is put the truck in neutral, set the park brake and with the truck running push the button. Then you get out, and push the button again. That "sets" the remote start.
My Dad has a Ford Ranger that's standard and has a pro-installed remote start. What you have to do, is put the truck in neutral, set the park brake and with the truck running push the button. Then you get out, and push the button again. That "sets" the remote start.
Yes on #10. Its the 5th gear nut on an NV4500 Manual transmission. Most cases it just backs off and the gear slides off too. Some weld it, some pin it, some safety wire it. We've done all three in our shop, experimenting. Its not difficult just time consuming. Our mechanics reverted to "tack" welding the nut on (with a wire welder), on opposing sides so they can grind the weld off later if needed on a rebuild. They tried "tacking" on one side only at first but our delivery drivers managed to break a couple welds so now its both sides. It has worked out well (and quick), no more breaks so far. This is not an actual fix just a temporary stop-gap. Whatever a mechanic can build a delivery driver can figure out how to break!!!!
To see a detailed discussion about this problem and its solutions go to:
www.quad4x4.com/NV4500 5th Gear Failures and Solutions.htm
This is a very good explanation of the problem and its fix for the transmission.
Here is where to look for #9 Fix:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender-diy.htm
another good idea.
The reason for #3 is braking power. These Napa Cylinders are actually for a GM 1ton. Don't say that though if you buy them. Just ask for the part Number. If you say you want Dodge 1 ton cylinders you'll get the wrong thing.
GM 1ton, NAPA PN# 4637377 are 30mm cylinders
Dodge 2500 pre 1977 are 24mm
Dodge 3500 and post 1977 2500s are 27mm
Thats about a 23% increase in braking power using the GM cylinders and they are a direct replacement. You will immediately notice the difference.
Lucky #13: Check http://www.genosgarage.com for Mag-Hytec covers.
Check Amsoil Synthetics for fluids, see: http://www.bestsynthetics.com
To see a detailed discussion about this problem and its solutions go to:
www.quad4x4.com/NV4500 5th Gear Failures and Solutions.htm
This is a very good explanation of the problem and its fix for the transmission.
Here is where to look for #9 Fix:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender-diy.htm
another good idea.
The reason for #3 is braking power. These Napa Cylinders are actually for a GM 1ton. Don't say that though if you buy them. Just ask for the part Number. If you say you want Dodge 1 ton cylinders you'll get the wrong thing.
GM 1ton, NAPA PN# 4637377 are 30mm cylinders
Dodge 2500 pre 1977 are 24mm
Dodge 3500 and post 1977 2500s are 27mm
Thats about a 23% increase in braking power using the GM cylinders and they are a direct replacement. You will immediately notice the difference.
Lucky #13: Check http://www.genosgarage.com for Mag-Hytec covers.
Check Amsoil Synthetics for fluids, see: http://www.bestsynthetics.com
Last edited:
From J Sienkowski:
If you have the Fleetguard filter # FS19519, which is the filter on CTD's w/ Prime-Lok filter relocator, order an extra water-in-fuel sensor. They tend to crack & leak after a few filter changes. I have one on my '97 & this is the filter # on mine. I order through Geno's to make it easy, they have the parts.
If you have the Fleetguard filter # FS19519, which is the filter on CTD's w/ Prime-Lok filter relocator, order an extra water-in-fuel sensor. They tend to crack & leak after a few filter changes. I have one on my '97 & this is the filter # on mine. I order through Geno's to make it easy, they have the parts.
PKemp said:Yes on #10. Its the 5th gear nut on an NV4500 Manual transmission. Most cases it just backs off and the gear slides off too. Some weld it, some pin it, some safety wire it. We've done all three in our shop, experimenting. Its not difficult just time consuming. Our mechanics reverted to "tack" welding the nut on (with a wire welder), on opposing sides so they can grind the weld off later if needed on a rebuild. They tried "tacking" on one side only at first but our delivery drivers managed to break a couple welds so now its both sides. It has worked out well (and quick), no more breaks so far. This is not an actual fix just a temporary stop-gap. Whatever a mechanic can build a delivery driver can figure out how to break!!!!
To see a detailed discussion about this problem and its solutions go to:
www.quad4x4.com/NV4500 5th Gear Failures and Solutions.htm
This is a very good explanation of the problem and its fix for the transmission.
Here is where to look for #9 Fix:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender-diy.htm
another good idea.
The reason for #3 is braking power. These Napa Cylinders are actually for a GM 1ton. Don't say that though if you buy them. Just ask for the part Number. If you say you want Dodge 1 ton cylinders you'll get the wrong thing.
GM 1ton, NAPA PN# 4637377 are 30mm cylinders
Dodge 2500 pre 1977 are 24mm
Dodge 3500 and post 1977 2500s are 27mm
Thats about a 23% increase in braking power using the GM cylinders and they are a direct replacement. You will immediately notice the difference.
Lucky #13: Check http://www.genosgarage.com for Mag-Hytec covers.
Check Amsoil Synthetics for fluids, see: http://www.bestsynthetics.com
On 2500's I'd recommend the Dodge 3500 wheel cylinders. I used the Chevy part on my 2500 and the brake pedal has a lot more travel before it does anything. My brother used the 3500 cylinders on his 2500 and its about perfect(short of discs.
) If anyone has any ideas on upgrading the MC let me know, it sure seems like it could use some volume. Also, it seems I have to adjust them more often to keep them tight enough to do any work. 
I have a friend that installs everything electrical, he's the wizard. He took a "BullDog" (I think that's right) brand, alarm/remote starter/window roller downer/temperature teller/AC turner onner/shutdown timer/etc... . and deactivated the clutch switch (as you would expect) but made some kind of sensor himself that would not allow you to use the remote start if the vehicle was in gear. Worked great. I'll try to pick his brain and see if he can remember how he did it. Otherwise, remote start on a manual is an insurance claim waiting to happen.
-R. J.
-R. J.
I have the 30mm brake cylinders on mine. I recomend them. I had the dodge 3500 cylinders before this and it made a dramatic inprovement. You need to be careful though. The rear tires on mine will lock up before the fronts when there is not a load on it. I didn't notice any extra pedal travel.
Besides Boost, EGT, and I'm assuming Front and Rear Diff's, what other guages do you recomend??
PKemp said:
Hmmm... maybe its just me then... Ok, I'm planning a flush and refill in a few weeks with a synthetic fluid(versus the generic NAPA I have now-1yr old). I have a better bleeder this time around, that we used when doing my brothers truck. If it makes a difference I'll post up. I don't have access to a vacuum bleeder, but if I could find one for a reasonable price, would consider purchasing one... .
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
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Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
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Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
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What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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