THIS LSD is JUNK!!!!!!

[ENordstrom]

So here is a link to an explanation to how different "Limited Slip" stuff works.



http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential10.htm



The key comment on the Torsen differential is this:



" However, if one set of wheels loses traction completely, the Torsen differential will be unable to supply any torque to the other set of wheels. The bias ratio determines how much torque can be transferred, and five times zero is zero. "



Seems to me that everything is fine AS LONG AS YOU DONT STOP.



The "Clutch Type Differential" has this pertinent point to make:



" With this limited slip differential, even though the wheel on the ice is not able to transmit much torque to the ground, the other wheel will still get the torque it needs to move. The torque supplied to the wheel not on the ice is equal to the amount of torque it takes to overpower the clutches. The result is that you can move forward, although still not with the full power of your car. "



So I think this is what we all expect with a Limited Slip rear end.

 

[thejeepdude]

I do know that my old 1968 mustang with limited slip, worked far better than this new dodge. My mustang did not have four wheel drive and yet I could drive in muddy conditions ( I lived in the Santa Cruz, CA mountains at the time ) and not get stuck. My new truck though got stuck when one rear wheel dropped off the pavement and luckily the 4-wheel drive button helped me out.

Hmmm ever think that the heavy front end on these things was holding you up more than the "non-working" LSD? I know in 2WD I can get stuck pretty easily in the snow or mud, in situations that even a car wouldn't get stuck. However, both tires are spinning, so it's not the LSD, it's that 1000lb motor up front and the empty bed over the drive wheels!! Put that sucker in 4x4 and no problem. The weight bias in these things is just one reason I wouldn't even consider a 4x2!

 

[Tim]

I think what is not clear here is this is not a limited slip differential. Chrysler calls it "anti-spin" for a reason. It is a torque biasing differential, but it's not correct to refer to it as a limited slip.

 

[ENordstrom]

I think what is not clear here is this is not a limited slip differential. Chrysler calls it "anti-spin" for a reason. It is a torque biasing differential, but it's not correct to refer to it as a limited slip.

Then it is another misnomer as "anti-spin" means "no-spin" in my book... which is belied by the fact that my wheels do, in fact, spin.



To be honest here, lets face facts. Regardless of what we were sold, some of us ( maybe more ) believed that we were being sold a vehicle that would not get stuck just because one wheel got on something slippery. I bought a 4WD in the belief ( and hopes ) that I could get more traction in slippery conditions. I have now discovered that my $45,000. 00 truck gets stuck if one of my rear wheels gets on something slippery.



I own a Dodge intrepid that doesnt get stuck.

I own a Nissan Pathfinder 4WD that doesnt get stuck under the same conditions my Dodge does.

Putting the truck in 4WD to escape is unacceptable.

Maybe the Torsen is great for sand rails, extreme 4WD rock-crawlers, etc, but I don't have extra levers to brake individual wheels.



Whatever you want to call it, and whatever Dodge wants to call it, our vehicles should NOT have problems if one wheel doesnt have traction.



Can anyone here say whether they had similiar problems with earlier models without the Torsen ?

 

[Tim]

It's a pickup truck. It's light in the rear and has a 1,000 lb motor. You guys are not being logical.



If you want a locking diff come to my house. I'll pull out the MIG and you'll be locked..... permenantly. Then you can come here and whine that your rear diff is welded and you still get stuck because you have crappy tires and a pickup that is heavy in the front end. Then what?

 

[ENordstrom]

It's a pickup truck. It's light in the rear and has a 1,000 lb motor. You guys are not being logical.



If you want a locking diff come to my house. I'll pull out the MIG and you'll be locked..... permenantly. Then you can come here and whine that your rear diff is welded and you still get stuck because you have crappy tires and a pickup that is heavy in the front end. Then what?

Lets see here... ... I had 400 lbs of 5th wheel hitch in the back... . a tank of gas and a shell... ... Just how much weight do I need to put in the back before you think I can have traction ?



I looked for the front/rear wieght ratio and found this : Percent weight, front/rear 52/48. I think that the rear axle assembly and bed frame, gas tank, drivelein, etc, make for a lot of weight.



And my 1969 Mach I had a Detroit Locker in the rear... . I don't think I want to go back to that just yet.....



It is pointless to discuss this further as we all have our opinions. I love my truck but see room for improvement... just like my wife loves me and also sees room for improvement... :-laf she wont get rid of me and I wont get rid of the truck.

 

[klenger]

ENordstrom:



So, are you saying that you are keeping the wife and the truck so that if you get stuck, your wife can get out an push? :-laf

 

[ENordstrom]

ENordstrom:



So, are you saying that you are keeping the wife and the truck so that if you get stuck, your wife can get out an push? :-laf

:-laf She is German... I am Swedish..... since she is looking over my shoulder as I type this..... she will drive and I will push !



BTW, your web page on the Pull-Rite install was excellent. I think they have changed the kit a little as my install was a little different (short bed vs. longbed ?) but it still helped out a lot. It took me about 6 hours to do and came out perfect ! Thank you for putting it on your webpage !

 

[JHardwick]

Lets see here... ... I had 400 lbs of 5th wheel hitch in the back... . a tank of gas and a shell... ... Just how much weight do I need to put in the back before you think I can have traction ?

Well heck, there is your problem, diesels don't run very well on GAS, limited slip or not :-laf



Mine still works good BTW

 

[Tim]

I looked for the front/rear wieght ratio and found this : Percent weight, front/rear 52/48. I think that the rear axle assembly and bed frame, gas tank, drivelein, etc, make for a lot of weight.

I have had my truck on a scale and I find these statements to be untrue and completely false. My truck is more like 70/30 in factory trim complete with a FULL tank of Diesel.

And my 1969 Mach I had a Detroit Locker in the rear... . I don't think I want to go back to that just yet.....

Comparing the characteristics of a locker in your car to having them in a truck with nothing in the bed is apples to oranges. I drive a locked rig on a daily basis and I don't even notice it's back there until it's needed, then I'm plenty thankful it's there. It can be annoying only if you make it that way... if you know how to drive, it's seamless. I would prefer not to have this in my $40,000 pickup, but if I find the factory anti-spin to be as worthless as you guys state, I will consider this option if a Deeeeeeeeeetroit ever becomes available for these trucks.

It is pointless to discuss this further as we all have our opinions. I love my truck but see room for improvement... just like my wife loves me and also sees room for improvement... :-laf she wont get rid of me and I wont get rid of the truck.

I disagree. This is not only opinion. This is logical reasoning based on fact. Get your truck on a scale and I think you'll agree that the weight bias is more towards the front in a nearly empty or empty truck than you realize. A dually may be slightly different having an extra pair of tires in the rear, (weight) but I'd imagine the reduced ground pressure of a DRW truck to make this situation worse on soft surfaces, not better.



The problem here is weight bias. Put 1,000 lbs in the bed and I bet it totally changes things. Put 2,000 in the bed and I bet it's an entirely different animal.

 

[ENordstrom]

I have had my truck on a scale and I find these statements to be untrue and completely false. My truck is more like 70/30 in factory trim complete with a FULL tank of Diesel.



Just out of curiosity, how did you weigh your vehicle to determine the front/rear weight ratios ? I would like to do the same thing with mine.

The figure I posted was from Consumer Reports for a 3500 gas model, they did not have the diesel listed, but I assumed it would be close enough.

 

[klenger]

ENordstrom:



If you weight your truck on a CAT scale, you can get the front axle (steer axle), rear axle (dirve axle), trailer axle, and total all in one reading. Cost is about $7. 00. See http://www.catscale.com/ for locations and details. Other companies also provide this service at most truck stops.

 

[ENordstrom]

ENordstrom:



If you weight your truck on a CAT scale, you can get the front axle (steer axle), rear axle (dirve axle), trailer axle, and total all in one reading. Cost is about $7. 00. See http://www.catscale.com/ for locations and details. Other companies also provide this service at most truck stops.

Thanks Mr. Lenger, I have seen the scales many times but wondered how they differentiate between front and rear and the problem of being exactly centered on a scale designed for big-rigs.

 

[DBond]

I looked for the front/rear wieght ratio and found this : Percent weight, front/rear 52/48. I think that the rear axle assembly and bed frame, gas tank, drivelein, etc, make for a lot of weight.

You can look up the front / rear curb weight here



http://www-5.dodge.com/vehsuite/TowingGuide.jsp



My truck is listed as 4286 / 2826



A more or less similar truck with a hemi (2500 because 3500 SB not available in gas) is 3471/2599



So the rear end isn't much different, the CTD gets a heavier axle and the 3500 has the overload springs.

 

[klenger]

Mr. Lenger is my dad's name. I usually go by "hey you".