2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tie rod ends shot, replace with Luke's Link?

[donhoward]

I was under the truck today (1997 2500 4x4 Diesel) and notice I have one tie rod end that has a lot of play so it, and probably the other 3 will need to be replaced. In doing some research it seems like maybe the Luke's Link kits might be the answer. I'd appreciate any input from those that have used LL. I will not be doing the track bar since it's a Moog with a lifetime warranty. I'll be replacing it with another Moog.

Some questions:
How hard is the install? It looks fairly straight forward to me and I have all the tools.
The grinding concerns me. How easy is it to screw up by grinding too much?
Will I have problems with clearance on the steering box or differential or is that just if you use the LL on the track bar?
Will I need a front end alignment afterwards?
Was there an installation article in TDR? I have all copies since 1997.
Anything I'm missing?

Thanks!

 

[VolsFan]

I have put them on both dodges I have owned and have been very happy. pretty good guy to deal with, and he includes very detailed instructions. You won't have a problem following them, each step has pictures.
-the grinding is easy, you just grind the lip off so you can beat the stud out
-no issues with clearance on gearbox or differential if just using as tie rod ends.I did have a slight rub issue on diff cover on the old truck when it was on the track bar before going to adjustable bar
-probably not a bad idea to get an alignment but I waited a long time on both trucks I put them on and experienced no uneven tire wear. You aren't unscrewing the rod end, atleast shouldn't have to.
-hardest part for me was getting the existing ends all off, after that it was easy.
Good luck

 

[VolsFan]

Also you'll want to make sure you don't have moog rod ends as the Luke's link won't fit over it. I recall seeing something about an exchange program in the instructions.

 

[SAndreasen]

Used Luke's links before on a track bar its very easy to do you just gind until you will see a line in the cap part like when you grind a welded seam down .

 

[donhoward]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I priced out replacement parts with MOOG brand through Rock Auto, the cost is almost exactly the same as buying 4 LLs. Considering I probably won't do a front end alignment afterwards it looks like I'll save some money going with LL. I only put about 2,000 miles a year on the truck now so unless I feel pulling I'll do without the alignment.
The tie rods are original, not bad considering 200,000+ miles.
I guess the hard part will be getting things apart. I've started soaking all fasteners with PB Blaster and will buy a pickle fork kit.

I'll also be replacing the track bar with a MOOG (no charge, under warrantee) and a Monroe Magnum steering damper.

 

[GrantP]

If the cost is similar, save yourself the trouble and just put in new Moog parts. At 2000 miles a year the replacements are going to last forever...

I used LL's a long time ago on my 97 and eventually trashed the original track bar with LL for a Moog like you did.

 

[donhoward]

The cost was $300 for MOOG with shipping through Rock Auto.
Four Luke's Links were $265 with shipping from Geno's Garage.

With LL I don't plan on doing a front end alignment, with MOOG I will need to do one. Don't know what the cost a alignment is but I would guess $200.

 

[JMcCoy]

I had LL on all 5 front end joints. They worked well for me. I prefer the third gen track bar. Only problem is the LL that connects to the steering/pitman arm would hit the 3rd gen conversion bracket. I still have one LL in and it's holding tight. When my joints go bad again, I will LL it. I removed the whole steering setup at once and installed the joints. No alignment was required. Good luck.

 

[gcorron]

I used the Luke's links on my track bar, and replaced ones of the tie rod ends at the same time. It was easy to do, and I've been completely happy with them, but I only put about 5k on the truck a year now.

One slight warning....I was on the grinder long enough that I smelled smoke.......set my shirt on fire! :--) and yes, as a matter of fact....I DO know better!

Happy wrenching,

George

 

[JMcCoy]

Use the hammer, as directed in the directions. I fought the first one trying to use a vise and sockets for an hour. One tap with the hammer and it came right apart. Also make sure you grind enough that the LL will slide over the knuckle. I broke one beating it on with a hammer. LL had one overnighted from CA to FL to me the next morning, free of charge. Excellent customer service, especially since it was my stupidity that broke it. Good Luck.

 

[klcammie]

I agree with above. I did all 5 on mine and they have been on for 3-4 years. Very happy, plus when they do wear out Luke's have a rebuild kit for them. In Ca. aligment was 49.00. Here in Oh 54.00, so not to bad.

 

[SAndreasen]

I just don't know if all that work is worth it to save that much if you do go that way I'd get a die the size of the threads on the stud because if the diameter on the stud is worn down a little it will be hard to to get em tightened up

 

[98ramtough]

I was on the fence on this and finally just took it to Les Schwab to do the tie rod and pitman arm. I was charged aroudn $500 with parts and install. My front end feels nice and tight with no more play or rattle on bumps and potholes. I had one instance of death wobble when I bought my used new to me 2001 with 240k miles. After replacing tires with Toyo AT2 and doing pitman arm/tierod/steering damper i have not had it since. Just an fyi incase someone else sees the same issues.

 

[donhoward]

So I decided to repair the one bad tie rod end with a Luke's Link. Installed it today and all went well. Actually it was easy to do even though I installed it while the tie rod was still attached to the truck which meant putting the pieces together from the bottom. A little grease held them in place.

Next problem, removing the steering damper mount. So far no luck on that but will try again tomorrow.

 

[SAndreasen]

Glad to hear you got it done the last Luke's link I did was pretty easy it seems like a pretty well built kit the thing I didn't like about it was the rubber washers and I also didn't like the way the cotter key was set up to hold the hole thing together but I put some red loctitite on it and torqued er down with a 2 foot breaker bar as far as I know it's still on the truck .

 

[donhoward]

I didn't locktite it but I did use a thicker cotter pin, the biggest one the hole would allow. It just keeps the the screw in plug from backing out.