Tie Rod Ends

[Bob4x4]

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With all the gizz-matchees in a PRO tool box the BEST YOU CAN DO IS A CELL PHONE APP!!!!!! Bob Please tell me you dont :-laf

It's more accurate than the factory tool

 

[BIGNASTY]

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It's more accurate than the factory tool

And the other day I got a cell phone call pulled out my Phone in line at the store to answer it and the PUNK KID behind the counter said WOW!!!!!! A FLIP PHONE DIDNT KNOW THEY STILL MADE THOSE!!!!

 

[mwilson]

And the other day I got a cell phone call pulled out my Phone in line at the store to answer it and the PUNK KID behind the counter said WOW!!!!!! A FLIP PHONE DIDNT KNOW THEY STILL MADE THOSE!!!!

Same thing that I have, one step up from a JitterBug 'cause it will take a picture... ... :-laf



Mike.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I thought I was going High Tech by even having a Cell Phone. :-laf



Asked the kid at the counter do those big hoops in your earlobes hurt? NO he said. IT WILL WHEN I SNATCH ONE OUT!!! He's a pretty nice young man he and I have always picked on eachother.

 

[OBayer]

Last Friday my 2008 with only 73k had the passenger side tie rod end fall off, luckily while parking. The truck has all highway miles and never used off road.

Examination on the bench showed no signs of damage or wear and I was able to pop the stud back into the socket fairly easily with a slight tap. There was still grease in the socket (had a zerk) it just simply looked like the lip of the socket was not large enough to retain the stud from the get go.

My truck was built in December 2007 and did not match to any steering recalls or TSB's that I could find.

I took a screen shot of the $336 kit from: http://www.moparsupercenter.com/dod...0-steering-upgrade-kit-pn-pk362afpk362af.html to the local Dodge dealer, he shook his head and said he had it but couldn't match the price, I'm thinking uh-oh here it comes, but his price was not bad came to $392 with the damper and pitman arm. I have read someone else paid $79 S/H for the kit so I felt as I did good plus I walked out the door with parts in hand. The only thing different then the online kit was the damper, it's a black Dodge part but does now have a sleeve over the shaft vs the old unshielded one.

Local shop today charged me $99 for a full alignment. My normal guys machine couldn't handle the length of the truck, may have gotten a better price there.

Now getting the pitman arm off was another story ! Just like others I could not get any tool between the arm and the steering box, it's only about 3mm and most of the tools are about 5mm. I ended up taking two of the jaws from my 3 jaw gear puller, grinding the ends down slightly, fitting them to a 2 jaw device on my slide hammer and after about 8-10 whacks it popped right off. The whole trick was getting something behind it.

Edit:
Oh yeah the only thing missing from the kit was the nut that holds the damper to the tie rod, had to dig around the garage and found a nut and washer to fit. Don't know if the nut should have been in the damper package or on the tie rod but it was MIA when I got the parts. Without it I wasn't going anywhere.

 

[Regcabguy]

Same thing that I have, one step up from a JitterBug 'cause it will take a picture... ... :-laf

Mike.

Same here. I'm already getting raked over the coals with digital home phone,broadband and cable. At this pt. I refuse to get a Smartphone and pay for texting and web connectivity.

 

[AH64ID]

Well I did some research on the steering style's and think I will stick with my 05 OEM setup.

 

[Wayne M.]

Well I did some research on the steering style's and think I will stick with my 05 OEM setup.

Can you clue me in on your research? Frankly I'm clouded up about this whole thing. 04-05 is the same? Vs the newer setup?

 

[AH64ID]

There are 2 styles. The "Y" style is the OEM from 03-08 and the "T" style is OEM from 08. 5+. The "T" style is the newer style that can be installed on the older trucks.

What I found is that the "Y" style will have less bump steer than the "T" style, and since I do a lot of miles on dirt/rough roads... well I don't want bump steer.

 

[Wayne M.]

Right. That much I got. What's the difference between the styles? What did you learn that inclines you to stay with the old style?

 

[seafish]

I changed the steering linkage on my 2005 4x4 from the oem T-style to the "upgraded" Y-style linkage at least 4 years ago under an extended warranty service related to death wobble.
The new steering linkage has functioned flawlessly on my truck, particularly after the newest Mopar steering box and power steering pump were recently installed on my truck, also under extended warranty due to a leaking steering box and PS pump. Though I still plan to reinstall the Defiant steering box stabilizer on the new set-up, the truck drives REALLY well without it and I do not expereince "bump steer" despite driving on bith drt and mountainous roads. Though I HAVE noticed a rasj of tie rod ends BREAKING with the newer style steering linkage, I was under the impression that this was due to improper alignment of the TRE on the linkage during installation.

 

[AH64ID]

I was told that the angles on the new style can lead to bump steer, whereas the older style doesn't. I have no issues with how my handles/steers now, so upgrading could be a downgrade.

 

[Wayne M.]

Ya. I agree. I remember getting the recall letter. I went out and inspected everything real close, and never remember seeing problems with steering linkage here on the TDR. Truck steers real well even today after the pounding on city streets I've given it. I agree that I'm staying with what I've got. I inspect all my suspensions at least 4X a year. I'm always fretting about a failure unannounced. When I do need something, then I'll revisit it. Meanwhile I'll be watching.

 

[cerberusiam]

Don't think there will be any problem with bump steer until you start getting into the +6" lift area. Bump steer would be a problem on a long travel suspension but thats not the case in 99% of the driving these trucks do. You would have to be thrashing them to drive fast enough on most roads to even get the suspension to cycle far enough to approach a problem. Blasting across the prairie and hitting whoops may cause some minimal problem with steer but there are other things that will break first.



The angle of the cross over bar is pretty good on a stock suspension. The Y-type suspensions actually had more problem in normal driving than the t-type. Any suspension movement caused the toe to change leading to wander and tire wear. That is eliminated with the t-type. Even on the trucks with lots of lift the bump steer is minimal and easily compensated for. The better steering feel and predictability is worth the change over IMO.



That is the first thing I noticed when switching, predictability was much better. The combination of worn tie rods and y-type steering was an issue that I could not get rid of even with good tires, BJ's, etc. It steered good but when the suspension started working it just did not feel right.

 

[LNaugle]

I totally agree with cerb... I think the only thing i could complain about is how much more responsive my steering is ! took a lil to get used to it on pavement but offroad is great!

 

[AH64ID]

I was told by Carli that the angels were off for stock, or close to stock and that I would have more bumpsteer with the 08. 5+ than the 03-08.

 

[Prairie Dog]

When I was looking for loose steering parts, I had my DW rocking the steering wheel gently back and forth and was amazed at what I saw. The Y system would first move a little at all the joints before turning the wheels. No wonder its sloppy and vague feeling. However, I just added a steering brace and I'm happy with the way it steers for now.
But in the future I will update it.

 

[cerberusiam]

Well, here are pictures of what stock heigh, 2" leveling kit, and 3" VR springs would look like at the drag link\tie rod coupler. Y'all decide what the effect would be. I have not yet felt what I would call bump steer even bouncing it pretty good on speed bumps. The drag link is running pretty much in the same plane as the track bar on all of them.



Stock Height

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2" Lift

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3" Lift

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[AH64ID]

I'm no steeringologist, but they look fine to me???

So at this point I am more confused... gonna stick with what I have for now...

 

[cerberusiam]

LOL, nothing comes easy when you start looking at this stuff. :-laf



In my experience, even the 3" lift is close enough that bump steer would be very hard to define. It is starting to widen the angles but not sure it would be a problem with a 4" lift. It is easy to see where once you get into a +6" lift a drop pitman arm is going to be neccessary or you will have bump steer.



All I know is the t-type linkage made a big difference. I drove around for 2 weeks without a stabilizer shock and it was still night and day difference from the worn y-type.

Granted, I started with 200k on the box and linkage, it was done. The box had a 1/4 up and down play and when I tightened it up it started sticking at center. Shot. The tie rod and drag link ends are all loose, not excessively but enough. The new box helped a lot, the steering stabilizer not a smuch but some, and the linkage a LOT as far as predictability and feel.



Roads with wild changes in crown, most of them around here, were a bugger to drive before. Always working the steering wheel to keep it straight. No more. The body roll and suspension cycling requires very little input to stay centered in the lane wheras before I would use the whole lane. BJ's helped a lot also. The crappy . 080 spec and they are Ok from the dealer is garbage. Zero play is mucho lots better.



The last piece will be control arms. Pretty sure the stock bushings are sloppy by this time.