2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Time for my first track bar. What is the latest rage?

[jrobinson2]

I'm leaning heavily to the 3rd gen mod. Do you guys think its worth it to wait for the adjustable one in March (as my tires are being torn up) or just go with the stock 3rd gen track arm now.



Roy

A worn track bar shouldn't affect tire wear at all, you have other problems if you're seeing abnormal tire wear.



Jared

 

[NPloysa]

Can anyone tell me what thickness steel the brackets are made of? 3/16" or 1/4"? And anyone with the Thuren, can you measure from the peak of the bracket to each hole where the arm mounts? I am thinking of making my own but need measurements so I can get the pitman arms correct. Thanks.



Nick

 

[Royk]

A worn track bar shouldn't affect tire wear at all, you have other problems if you're seeing abnormal tire wear.

I think the alignment guy wants new tires and trackbar installed before he'll do alignment. I think its generally not good to align any mechanical device when it contains worn, out-of-spec parts. I'm getting the tires tomorrow and just ordered the 3rd gen bar and bracket.



I have no intention of lifting the truck as some have asked, and I expect to keep the truck a long time, so the 3rd gen mod seems a good way to go.



Thanks for all the help.



Roy

 

[EBottema]

Roy- Stick with the 3rd gen bar conversion. If you go with any of the adjustable bars on the market, you will get unwanted flex in the brackets.

NP- Good idea, the only good track bar on the market for lifted trucks is ones you make yourself

 

[snowracer69]

Roy- Stick with the 3rd gen bar conversion. If you go with any of the adjustable bars on the market, you will get unwanted flex in the brackets.

even when installed correctly? Oo.

 

[SnoKing]

Roy- Stick with the 3rd gen bar conversion. If you go with any of the adjustable bars on the market, you will get unwanted flex in the brackets.

NP- Good idea, the only good track bar on the market for lifted trucks is ones you make yourself

Careful of what you say, I got in deep muck for similar statements with someone on this site. However I agree with your statement. I also agree with the guy that said that hemi joints to not belong on a daily driver. There is no compliance to movement in a hemi joint, so they are going to wear out fairly fast. www.Solidsteel.biz is coming out with a TB kit for a lifted truck that looks good. SNOKING

 

[EBottema]

Snow, you saw that even people that have installed the track bars to factory specs still have flexing problems. Get your head out of the snow Anyways, Snorking, most people on this message board are great but a few people I have had it out with because they get emotionally attached to their trucks or certain brands and products. I mean these trucks are great but they don't have to be so childish... . I hope I get in deep muck with someone because it shows their lack of knowledge or ignorance since all i'm trying to do is help and bring a problem to the table... . the quote comes to mind "YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH" ---good movie too

 

[THUREN]

Just to stir the pot a bit... .

 

[Mundgyver]

I too am looking at replacing my track bar and all the front end bushings. Guess I will need to suscribe to this thread for further research.

 

[SnoKing]

Just to stir the pot a bit... .

What's the thing in front of the drivers end of the track bar???? Looks like a bolt at an angle sticking through a collar. SNOKING

 

[THUREN]

What's the thing in front of the drivers end of the track bar???? Looks like a bolt at an angle sticking through a collar. SNOKING

I guess that's sorta' what it is... It's called a uniball... Basically a 1" bore, 1. 75" diameter ball, teflon lined, spherical bearing..... Or ... ... a massive, oversized, heim joint that presses into the machined cup welded to the end of the track bar. They are commonly used in desert racing for lower/upper ball joints. Taking up the slack between the 3/4" bolt and the 1" bore there are two spacers which provide extra movement so that the assembly can swing without binding. It also relocates the joint so that the forces seen through the joint can be as perpendicular as possible to the bar correcting the problem with the OEM design. Still in prototype stages... . checking for clearance issues.....

 

[SnoKing]

I guess that's sorta' what it is... It's called a uniball... Basically a 1" bore, 1. 75" diameter ball, teflon lined, spherical bearing..... Or ... ... a massive, oversized, heim joint that presses into the machined cup welded to the end of the track bar. They are commonly used in desert racing for lower/upper ball joints. Taking up the slack between the 3/4" bolt and the 1" bore there are two spacers which provide extra movement so that the assembly can swing without binding. It also relocates the joint so that the forces seen through the joint can be as perpendicular as possible to the bar correcting the problem with the OEM design. Still in prototype stages... . checking for clearance issues.....

Good picture, how about a close up of this thingy? SNOKING

 

[Alphacowboy]

about time you showed up Don, I couldnt answer all the detailed technical questions anymore, glad you joined the site. Maybe these diesel heads can help you better further your designs!

 

[NPloysa]

Just to stir the pot a bit... .

Thuren, sweet! Do all your cross-over steering kits have the bends in the pipe? I saw your pics of the kit on your site and some did not have bends.



Nick

 

[JPittinger]

Thuren- Where's the steering stabilizer? Do you need one? I would like to can my inverted Y POS.

JJ

 

[THUREN]

Hey Guy's...



Am I allowed to discuss these things?? I don't want to break any vendor rules if that applies here...





Don

 

[Alphacowboy]

that at full droop don? looks like its on the verge of binding.



the reason the pics on the site have a tie-rod that is straight and the one he posted here is bent is because of the diff cover. On a 1500 (D44 front axle) the cover is small compaired to the 2500 (D60). to clear the front over at full lock, he put in the bends.

 

[EBottema]

Thuren- Not to bash you or your design but the track bar you sell is nice however the bracket has much to be improved on... . You are relying on the weak crossmember and should be tieing the track bar bracket between the frame rails to eliminate flexing. Your instructions say it- "Check for periodic cracking in the crossmember. " All the flexing on that weak point will cause cracking, why didnt you come up with something stronger to elimate that problem? Again, I'm not trying to bash you I'm just frustrated how many companies sell track bars that are untested and unsafe.

 

[SnoKing]

Hey Guy's...



Am I allowed to discuss these things?? I don't want to break any vendor rules if that applies here...





Don

You are designing and asking for comment, not selling at this point! I would think that you are ok.



Are you mounting to the stock frame mount? I see the head of a bolt above the new "thingy ball end" that I do not see on my 2001. 5. SNOKING

 

[THUREN]

that at full droop don? looks like its on the verge of binding.



the reason the pics on the site have a tie-rod that is straight and the one he posted here is bent is because of the diff cover. On a 1500 (D44 front axle) the cover is small compaired to the 2500 (D60). to clear the front over at full lock, he put in the bends.

Yeah Matt... . The axle end is hanging in this pic...

Thuren- Not to bash you or your design but the track bar you sell is nice however the bracket has much to be improved on... . You are relying on the weak crossmember and should be tieing the track bar bracket between the frame rails to eliminate flexing. Your instructions say it- "Check for periodic cracking in the crossmember. " All the flexing on that weak point will cause cracking, why didnt you come up with something stronger to elimate that problem? Again, I'm not trying to bash you I'm just frustrated how many companies sell track bars that are untested and unsafe.

I totally respect your opinion. I just don't agree with it... . I regards to what my instructions say..... It's just like any modification you do. Keep an eye on it. There is NO flexing in my setup but I can't regulate what procedures, quality of welding, and driving style people have. It just a suggestion... ... ... If you race the baja 1000, regularly hard core rock crawl, or beat the crap out of your truck on a regular basis, beef the area up a little bit. Along with many other things... ... .



Getting into the technical aspect of it. The brace on my design welds up to the crossmember at a point to try and triangulate the area as much as possible. The crossmember is seeing most of the load laterally so it is more than strong enough. With a lifted truck you are only dropping the track bar pivot point about 3 inches but adding a brace on top of that. If there was a problem with the factory bosses snapping than I would have done things differently. Fact is... . Once welded... That area is VERY stationary. Product cost and space in that area is a big factor too...

You are designing and asking for comment, not selling at this point! I would think that you are ok.



Are you mounting to the stock frame mount? I see the head of a bolt above the new "thingy ball end" that I do not see on my 2001. 5. SNOKING

I'll try to just give some good feedback and answer your guy's questions..... Not pushin' anything here. .





This truck is a 96' and the 3/4 and 1 tons had that little brace bolted on instead of the welded factory one on your newer truck. It is the factory boss. Also... This one has the heim/uniball adapter welded in place for testing but the finished ones will have a machined adapter made to fit the taper in the frame. .







Don