Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing and EGT ?s

[frosty]

When finding the inner base circle which was do you turn the engine? This article, TSB 18-10-94 Rev. A, says counterclockwise from front of engine. Is this standing in front of the engine looking back? Or is it from a drivers perspective looking at the front of the truck?

Reason I ask is that if I turn it CCW while standing in front of the truck the dial indicator rises instead of dropping off as it says. Also I get a reading of 7-8mm this way and I know my truck cant be timed that far.

If turning clockwise from standing in front of the engine until I find the inner base circle and proceeding with the instructions I come up with 4. 85mm give or take . 05mm which is right about where I set it initially.

Background. 215s, #10 plate almost full forward, 3K GSK, AFE filter on stock tube and Dodgezilla turbo set at 42 PSI (factory settings from my understanding). With this setup I could hit between 1100-1200* WOT. I could pull local hills (MD and PA) at 70-75 MPH and maintain or pick up speed without going over 1300* as long as I didnt bury the pedal.

Picked up some Bosch 90HP sticks and swapped them out for the 215s and I could hit 1400* and rising before 65 MPH on a WOT run. Couldnt keep the EGTs in check. My guess was I should be in the 375 HP range with the 90HP sticks. I dyno'd the above set but with the stock charger last fall for 315/799.

I have since dropped back to the stock 180 injectors and I am still having EGT issues. I can get hotter now than I was with the 215s and I am down on power. I figure slipped timing plays into it but after tonight I am not so sure unless I am checking it wrong.

Sorry for the long winded post but I am starting to get frustrated with this truck. I go from a nice running truck to one that I cant keep the EGTs in check even with smaller injectors and less HP.

Any one have any thoughts or suggestions? Lift pump is new in the last couple months, overflow valve is also. Not sure what my fuel pressure is, havent hooked up a gauge yet. Fuel filter is also new in the last few months. Timing looks to be at 15. 5* give or take maybe . 5* unless I am wrong on how I am checking it. Using the Miller/SPX timing kit.

 

[dpuckett]

1stGens are my forte, but from what I understand about the 2ndgens, the timing procedure is abut the same from 1st to 2nd Gens. Start about 30deg before #1 TDC, then turn the engine til you get your desired lift. (this is where they differ, as the 1stGens have a key, and thus cant slip). Loosen the pump from the gear (if it isnt at #1TDC), then rotate the engine back to TDC; tighten the gear to the pump. This should put you at your desired timing, as specified by the chart found on PDR's website, et al.



Are you using this method for setting your timing? You should be getting (close to) the right reading if you are. And yes, you should start at "pointA" and move CW to get your timing reading. Are you sure your timing pin is accurate? I know 1stGens arent known for great accuracy... ... . How about your air filter? My ex's dad had a filter minder that indicated good, but pulled the filter and it was clogged somethign awful. Replaced filter and went from 17 to 20mpg empty.



Once you establish your timing, check your intake system for leaks, injectors for atomization. If they have been on the shelf for a while, they may have gummed up from the diesel in them disintegrating.



Daniel

 

[frosty]

I was following the instructions in the link in my first post, which are pretty much the same. My concern was which way to bar the engine when standing in front of it looking towards the rear of the truck. Following those instructions gives me a reading of 8-9mm of lift which I cant believe is right.

My timing pin is not accurate which was a concern. So I pulled the #1 injector and used a dial indicator with homemade extension to find TDC. I am pretty sure its as accurate as I'll get.

My air filter is an AFE cone (BHAF replacement) on the stock air tube. Havent gotten around to making up a cold air box for it so it sits in the bottom of the stock box for now. Its fairly clean, with in the last 3 months but I could give it another cleaning.

I'll have to double check for intake leaks. Not sure on the injectors. The Bosch injectors I bought were new but had been sitting. The EGT problem seemed to follow me though even with moving back to my stock injectors, just not as extreme which is what has me baffled.

 

[TyThompson]

You should turn the engine in direction of rotation, so that the lash is taken up in the gears in the right direction. That would be clockwise with you facing the front of the engine. (Standing in front of the truck. )

 

[JGK]

Look at the blades on your fan. That will tell you which way the engine rotates normally.



Counter rotate it until the needle on the gauge stops dropping. Zero the needle. Then rotate forward until you reach the lift you want. Pop the gear, counter rotate until before TDC (to remove gear lash), then rotate up to TDC. Set the gear and recheck.



Advice: pop the gear initially before attempting to set timing. The violence of the pop will move settings. Then clean the shaft/gear area with brake cleaner squirted between them and blow out/dry with compressed air. I do this 3 times. Reset the gear with the nut using only a pound or two of torque. That's all it takes to get the pump to rotate. Then when you pop the gear when you've rotated up to the lift you want it pops off very easily and the lift wont change much at all.



-Jay