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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) timing case for sale?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Camshaft Seal

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission PS Box Seals

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Be aware that there are two kinds. One like you have that is bored through as a straight hole. If you get one of those you will need to install a blocking tab. The later kind of gear case has a step in the hole which retains the KDP. No blocking tab is necessary with the new gear case.
 
BUMMER!!! :mad: So this begs the question. . . why didn't you kill the KDP? (OK sorry, I know I'm rubbing it in).



You might call around, places like Piers, DD, Dynomite Diesel in Monroe WA, Power Shop in Enumclaw WA, see if you get lucky.



Vaughn
 
well i was gonna get it done at the spring fling at cauffman motorsports, but dave(the mad scientist with the jig) was busy and i was just gonna wait till the fall brawl in september... a month away, and it just went
 
I'll climb up on my soap box again. Those of you who have not blocked their KDP I wonder how long it's going to be before yours "just went"?



Email me at -- email address removed -- for instructions on how to install a blocking tab.
 
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YUP - laugh and giggle all you like - I've successfully used JB Weld to repair cracked blocks, leaking radiators, and several similar items. Sometimes, when there's little or nothing to be lost by trying, trying just MIGHT save you lotsa $$$ and hard work...



'course, it IS lots easier just to sit in a corner and giggle... :rolleyes:
 
I know JB would probably work, I am just giving him a hard time, I talked to him the other day and he want's nothing to do with the magic of JB Weld. :-laf I have a friend who is a professional welder and has some realy nice equipment, I will see if he can do it. I can tow him up there with my truck, prehaps he can do it while it is on the truck so we don't have to take out the cam and gears etc. Quick question though, how important is this KDP? Is it needed? Can you get away with just patching up the leak, and not replacing the KDP and of course fixing it so its doesn't fall out again? It would be really nice if we didn't have to take too much apart... but only if it would not affect the reliability, the power, or the longevity of the motor. Does anyone have any experience or knowlege with this? Any help would be greatly apreciated.



______________

'97 2500, 5spd, 4x4, long bed, turbo, 370's, gov spring kit, etc, etc, etc,..... "get's the job done"
 
There are two dowell pins. The KDP is one of them. The function of the dowell pins is to exactly position the gear case. One of the reasons for that is to make sure that the gear engagement for the injection pump is correct. I'm not sure how important that is but I would not want to take any chances.
 
Thank you. That's kinda what I figured. Guess it's up to him if he want's to take "another chance" hint, hint ;) .
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
YUP - laugh and giggle all you like - I've successfully used JB Weld to repair cracked blocks, leaking radiators, and several similar items. Sometimes, when there's little or nothing to be lost by trying, trying just MIGHT save you lotsa $$$ and hard work...



'course, it IS lots easier just to sit in a corner and giggle... :rolleyes:

Gary - K7GLD. . . the JB Weldmeister :p
 
I saw one that was JB welded. The case broke again there and below the vacuum pump so it was waving in the breeze so to speak, with just the row of bolts holding that half of the case.
 
Well, you know the old saying "Po folk have po ways... "



Sometimes guys low on $$$ hafta make the second-best choice, and take their chances - it's worked lots of times for me - sometimes not...



Calculated risk and all that... ;) :D



AND, fact remains, proper application and results of use of ANY "cure" depends greatly on how appropriate it is for that SPECIFIC damage - the BEST of "fixes", poorly or inappropriately applied, will likely not be satisfactory - in the failed case Joe D. mentions, was decent surface preparation done - was it a patch, or an attempt to actually bridge a serious crack in a high stress area?



You have to use JUDGEMENT and reasonable care and surface preparation to these fixes, whethet JB Weld, OR welding itself - in if that care and judgement is NOT used, it's sorta unfair to knock the improperly used fix as being at fault...
 
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The fact remains for a failed KDP is that you can't see how much damage there really is unless you remove the cam shaft. The cracks Joe D. is talking about that failed after a "fix" with JB Weld were behind the cam gear. These engines just cost too much to mess around and not do the job right in the first place. There is no reason to believe that the attempted fix with JB Weld was done incorrectly for the failed case. May have been a botched job, but it may not have been from what we know about it.
 
Joe G. said:
The fact remains for a failed KDP is that you can't see how much damage there really is unless you remove the cam shaft. The cracks Joe D. is talking about that failed after a "fix" with JB Weld were behind the cam gear. These engines just cost too much to mess around and not do the job right in the first place. There is no reason to believe that the attempted fix with JB Weld was done incorrectly for the failed case. May have been a botched job, but it may not have been from what we know about it.



Well, for sure, the absolute BEST fix, is to remove the case, check the gears out carefully and make DERN sure the dowel pin isn't still lodged in there looking for another chance for catastrophic damage.



No doubt about it!
 
Good deal, don't even listen to the JB weld crowd, there is a lot of stuff goin on up there, don't take chances with your Cummins.

You can remove the cam gear with care, and that willl get you to the bolts behind the gear. Just make sure you have a gear puller that will put even pressure on the gear and heat it up around the cam it will slide right off, and heat it in a oven to 350 degrees F. when you put it back on. Leave it in the oven for a couple of hours before you try to put it back on.

Sorry for the loss of the KDP, don't let these guy rile you, Cummins should have made it right a long time ago, you are not the first one to have it go on you.

Just fix it right while you are fixing it and the motor will give you a lot more service.



John
 
I know this doesn't relate to the thread directly but I wanted to share a quick KDP expereince.



I recently purchased a 1998 12v with 287k miles. I pulled the cover today to check the KDP. It was 100% where it should be, not even out a little bit. I was very surprised that after 287k miles it was still in the right place.



Some trucks are just luckier than others I guess.
 
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