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Tipm Saver finished

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No Right Trailer Turn Signal

Update on TIPM Saver

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i should have chimed in earlier, there is another thing you need to do. you need to add a diode to each relay coil to prevent the spike from going back to the tipm. you should do your tie in before the rear plugs so that the 7 pin is protected. i like to add a 7 pin in the bed at the same time. i will try to pix a schematic. About the cheapest place to get the relays is J. C. Whitney part # ZW149432 @ $5. 99 ea. The fuse block is # ZW133966@ $15. 99 I use 2. 5 amp 1,000 volt diodes from radio shack, they are about 50 cents each. Napa has the thermal breaker. The box from anyone. One pix is of a WWII surplus piece of a radar. The second is a pie pan with a do not park sign for a cover one pix shows where to mount the breaker and one the best place to mount the box. I add a plug in the bed at the same time. #ad

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I was asking because i have been towing for a long time(most of the time), and i did have a fuse blow once or twice, but i replaced them and have not had any problems with it, Thanks for the reply and especially for the pics and diagrams, monte
 
Just an FYI, I measured the current for running all the incandescent running lights on my travel trailer (17?) and it's till only 4. 5 amps. The stop lights take about the same so a much smaller fuse could be used to protect the wiring - I used 10A.
 
CKelley1, When I was building my TIPM saver I sourced relays that were built with diode suppression across the relay coil. Been running mine for 3 plus years with no issues.
 
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OK, added the Circuit breaker to the box and incredibly it fits inside. . the Type 2 ATC Circuit breaker stays open til the overload condition is removed. . the 5 circuits are lights, LT, RT Elec. brake, and backup. not a bad setup, huh?

Motorhead, I saw those Diode Relays and I might get those later. . both of my trailers have LED Lights all around so I don't perceive any problems.

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Not too worried on any voltage spikes yeah they can hurt but can't go any higher than 14volt. The problem the TIPM has is with shorts and amps. If the voltage spikes don't shut down the circuit, should be good.
 
Not too worried on any voltage spikes yeah they can hurt but can't go any higher than 14volt. The problem the TIPM has is with shorts and amps. If the voltage spikes don't shut down the circuit, should be good.

The coil on the magnet that closes the relay will at like an ignition coil on a gas engine. When the magnetic field is cut, the power to the electro magnet cut off, The field colapsing will generate a high voltage spike well, well above 14 volts.
 
motorhead the only reason i added the diode rather than buy the relay with the diode across it is because the relay without it is available everywhere and is cheaper
 
So ... is there someone building these for sale comercially

I explored this a year or so ago and sold about 25 units. My BIGGEST concern was product liability and insuring myself and limited assets. Product liability insurance is "out of this world" in price and I would be married to each unit for LIFE! While I felt I had a great product, the costs to market and insure them was completely out of the question. I thought of putting kit together just called a "LOAD CENTER" and let the buyer be the deciding factor on what they use it on, but I just don't have the time. I built it, it worked, I put one on my truck and it has performed flawlessly.
As others have done including myself, build your own.
 
I agree motorhead. . the parts I listed is around what you were selling it for with shipping. Just buy the parts from the links I showed, put it together like I did. It works. . use 5 relays for the main loads. I showed this setup to a dodge service writer. . he smiled and said. . I like it. . good job!
 
I agree motorhead. . the parts I listed is around what you were selling it for with shipping. Just buy the parts from the links I showed, put it together like I did. It works. . use 5 relays for the main loads. I showed this setup to a dodge service writer. . he smiled and said. . I like it. . good job!

Eric, you did a nice job on yours and good for you showing it to DODGE. It takes REAL people that use the product (our Trucks) to "Think out of the Box" and fix their shortcomings.
Eric, Try to get a water tight through fitting for your wiring into the box. I found a 1/2 inch knock out size, plastic gland nut fitting for mine. I had to slightly modify it to fit all of the wires through the center of the gland packing and I also injected clear silicone sealer and then tightened down the gland nut. I did the submerge test on one of my first units for about an hour and no internal leaks. This made it safe in my mind to install under the truck. Did you also integrate the flat four prong plug to the TIPM Saver side?
 
Yeah I did. Wired it to the same wires that comes out of the relay... My box is mounted upside down. . all the components are at the top of the box (bottom), so no real threat of problems. . if it does, there is the C/B. . I might have to redo the flimsy seal for the lid. . coat it with silicone and let dry then put on. be easier to put the lid on time and again. .
 
update. .

On the 5th relay for the Electric brakes, don't do it. . you can put a fuse in line if you want but the EB needs to be connected for them to function correctly. I cut out the relay and connected the red and green wires together. . basically back to stock wiring. . I am on a trip and don't have an in line fuse to splice in... so only 4 relays for the lights should keep the TIPM Happy from bad trailers.
 
What year did Dodge star putting TIPM in our trucks? I guess I was maybe understanding my 04. 5 has it? Very good write up, too!
 
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