Tired of the same problems and questions? Heres a new one to tease your knowledge...

[Chad Sheets]

Here goes. The tach (factory) in the truck is going dead, then it comes back to life. Kind of acts like a stock lift pump going bad. Just comes and goes.

If it does it going down the interstate (65-75mph) you dont notice a difference in engine performance. . doesn't mean its not affecting the engine, but if it is I cant feel it. The check engine light comes on as well.

If it starts doing it at idle or a slow crawl (5-15mph) the engine starts getting erratic on its idle... sounds like a mean pulling truck with that "chukka chukka chukka" sound. The check engine light comes on this way to.

I never noticed this until I put all the transmission stuff in, so all you Bill K scholars let me know what that orange wire does I cut a couple months ago

Does anyone know if that orange wire from the PCM/ECM/ECU on the firewall that Bill K has you cut and put a diode in it for the valvebody/torque converter swap is related in anyway shape or form to this? Could that diode be poorly connected causing this? Could the diode be bad? Am I on the right trail with this, or should I be looking else where?

I at first thought it was the tach drive sensor going bad, BUT if it was that, one would think only the tach would go bad and engine performance wouldn't be affected.



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Always ready to help!
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, EZ box, race transmission, Barry Grant fuel system, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
NRA Life Member
My Diesel Page

 

[BigCarl64]

Sounds like the Crank Position Sensor going bad. Exact same thing happened on my previous 98. 5 24v truck. Tach would go dead, engine would lose power, and check engine light would come on. Replaced sensor and problem solved.

 

[Chad Sheets]

Good to hear if thats all it is. Is the crank position sensor in the center of the block, drivers side?

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Chad,

It should be # 10.

See here:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_feb98/fuel_sys_comp.htm

Mounted on the crankshaft between cylinders 5 and 6 is a tone wheel (Fig 6) which provides crankshaft speed and position data. The crank sensor is mounted behind the starter, which must be removed to service the sensor.




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-19-2001). ]

 

[Chad Sheets]

Hmmmm... . how about this thought. The EZ advances timing. Engine timing comes from the crank position sensor, correct? Could the EZ have issues?

Is there any way a guy with an average set of tools can check to see if this sensor is bad/good? My electrical knowledge is limmited to car radio and speakers as a kid #ad
so speak real slow so I can understand.

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

my truck a 96 just started doing something similar saterday and yesterday, tack would die and the amp guage would not be charging so it would read battery charge, it turned on both times it did it. The first time at the pulls in bout 10 minutes, the second time it lasted 1 hour of drive time.
Got me stumped.
thanks.

 

[Guest00]

I don't feel like getting the bible right now but is there a cam position sensor that is used for tach or timing???

 

[jmeehan]

In the wiring diagram for the 01. 5's only a cam position sensor is shown on the diesel. I read on here that a change occured on the 24 valve engines. Some had crank sensors and some had cam sensors. Sorry, that's all I can remember.
In the ignition control secton, 8I pg. 5, it states the cam sensor detects RPM and relates crankshaft position and #1 TDC. Hence the crank sensor is no longer used.
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ex Ford tech, now driving '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54, Patriot Blue

[This message has been edited by 85CJ (edited 03-19-2001). ]

 

[Mopar-muscle]

chad , that orange wire gets a resistor installed not a diode , on the transmission side you want to see 4. 6 - 4. 8 volts , while idling , if its lower you need a smaller resistor , if its higher it will need to be increased in size . also there is an orange with a black tracer of that connector , make sure thats not the one you moded .

have you tired disconnecting the EZ ??? whats the code in the computere ??

 

[Bent6]

My 98. 5 24v started the same thing one day on the interstate. Would get up to around 55mph and the tach would bounce around, lots of smoke, and no power to go any faster. Kind of felt like the transmission going away except it would accerate through the gears fine up to 55-60. Turned out the crank trigger was dropping out screwing up the timing. Dealer replaced it under warranty and no problems since or before for that matter.

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Will
'98 3500 24v, auto, 4. 10s, stock - for now!
38' United Expressline
X-treme Gooseneck race car hauler.

Other Bad Habit:
'87 Buick Regal
Turbo V-6 1400hp, 1200ft/lbs
4. 99 @ 142MPH 1/8 mile
7. 70 @ 179MPH 1/4 mile
And lookin' for more!

SO I'M A TURBO MAN!

 

[JR2]

I am fairly confuesed now with the talk of all these sensors, but I remember my Dad's 98. 5 24v had this problem also. I believe it was cam postition sensor that had to be replaced. I was there when the tech plugged into the truck and he said " your truck is in limp mode" then went on to explain that when this sensor fails the computer has a "safe" preprogramed way to run the truck. My Dad drove it for about two weeks that way because the part had to be ordered... to top it off he got better mileage (by like . 5mpg) in limp mode.
I also know that the new (2001) truck do not have this cam sensor, they have another sensor that essentially does the same thing. . I just don't remmeber where it is.

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John D. Rathert Jr.
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01 2500 Forrest Green Sport SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end with all options avail. DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Guard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner, Leer 160XL Topper, Power Edge, EZ Edge, SPA Boost/EGT Gauge on pillar mount, DTT's tc/vb combo, 275 RV injectors, DD 4" Exhaust and a KN RE0880 where the air box use to be. New turbo (HX40), SS fuel lines and bigger injectors in planning stages... . See My Truck, Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4, Brother Truck: 92 W250 SLT CC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck) Winter fun - 2000 Skidoo Summit 700
I am my own warranty station. ZOOM ZOOM
*************************

 

[blackbeast]

JR2
Actually, You have it backwards. 98. 5 to 2000 use a crank shaft position sensor. 2001's and up use the cam... .

 

[Chad Sheets]

OK. I remember asking about this a year or so ago, the crank sensor thing. I was trying to figure out a way we could advance timing (before the days of EZ's). My thought was to reposition the sesor on the block, BUT found out that would take more resources than we had at out disposal. At any rate, I have the Mrs on her way to Cummins (open 24 hours) to pick me up one of these doodads for $30 I believe.

As for the orange wire, I meant resistor. When it comes to electronics I am a "black is ground and red is hot" kind of guy. I will get my multi meter out and see if I can remember how to run it and do a transmission wire check. There just isnt enough free time in a day anymore.

 

[Chad Sheets]

Well, I got around to fixing it today. Had to pull the starter off to the side. Took about 30 minutes to get it all replaced. Truck hasnt missed a beat yet. Hope this was the fix, and not a PE/EZ issue. Thanks for all the help and ideas.

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Always ready to help!
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, EZ box, race transmission, Barry Grant fuel system, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
NRA Life Member
My Diesel Page